Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Well I'm back with the same old problem. My 1948 deluxe touring Packard with a 288 cu in engine is hard to start when parked after it is driven or parked over night. The AC fuel pump and Carter 645s carburetor have been rebuilt, the fuel tank was cleaned and treated yet the issue continues. I began to doubt my ability to rebuild the carburetor and took to the folks at Raleigh Carburetor, it was taken apart and found to be in good working order. I installed a clear fuel filter so I could see if gas was even getting to the carburetor. When I park and the engine is hot the carburetor fuel bowl empties while the fuel filter remains full in as little as 5 minutes. If I just crank the engine to start it is a a 50/50 bet the battery will run down before it starts. I now carry a small of fuel supply and a 3/4" wrench so I can refill the carburetor bowl with gas. The engine starts easily when I refill the carburetor. I visitedthecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooying.htm where the problem was identified as the volatility of modern fuel. I am leaning towards replacing both the carburetor and fuel pump. I know I have seen in these forums where an electric fuel pump was installed at the fuel tank can't seem to find that again. Any Idea's on a fix or work around for this problem would be greatly appreciated, kind of at wits end.

Curious, did your carb guy check the anti-percolator valve?

I've come to finally accept that in certain extreme climates an electric fuel pump may be desired to overcome today's volatile gasoline. I've not found the need for one here in NJ where we often get in mid-summer to 95 degrees or so, but rarely warmer.

Unfortunately with 15% ethanol probably just around the corner, things will get worse so maybe the answer is to bite the bullet and install an electric pump now. But I'd wire it on a sort of "dead man" switch so you coulnd't leave it on as the primary pump.

I'm a believer --my car does similar to yours with draining down but more from lack of use or long time between starts than volatility. Also strongly agree with O_D on the separate turn off switch. Mine is a toggle switch and only run the electric for 30 seconds or so when filling filter and carb.

Here is Kev's electric pump install on his 54. Neat, protected and out of the way.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... ic.php?post_id=51390#forumpost51390 There are different style pumps so depending on what you find for 6v, it might vary a little.

Yes the valves have been checked three times when I rebuilt the carb, when Raleigh Car checked and yesterday when I checked them again.

Did the 48's have the fiber insulator piece about 1/4" thick between carb and manifold that was used on some later models? If not, wonder if something like that would help.

Yes the 48 does have an insulator block I think it is about 3/4 ". I ordered a electric fuel pump this evening hope it works.

Try putting a small amout of diesel fuel in a full tank of gas. That can reduce the volitility of the fuel without affecting the operation of the engine under normal use. It in fact may make the modern gas more like the fuel the car had when new, with the exception of lead.

I used to put a gas/diesel mix in a VW to prevent jelling of the diesel in very cold weather. Any idea what the mix should be?

Thank you for the link and your comments. After you get the engine started do you just use your stock fuel pump to pump gas through the electric pump in the off position?

" When I park and the engine is hot the carburetor fuel bowl empties while the fuel filter remains full in as little as 5 minutes. "

How do u know it's the CARBURETOR that's emptying?????

What u describe above i have experienced too but it's the GLASS FILTER bowl that empties.