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My 1939 super 8 will not start. The carb will often flood gas through the drain pipe continuously as the engine is turned,with either the choke open or closed, or foot on gas pedal or off, makes no difference just floods, a lot of gas pours down the pipe for as long as the engine is turned.
I have checked the fuel level in the bowl it was slightly less than 5/8th and I have increased it to 5/8th, the float is fine and free. I have turned the car with the top of the carb off and the fuel level remains constant i.e. the needle seals off OK, the triangular needle is stainless steel tipped not rubber, the shop manual says the point of the triangle should face down, which it was with the top of the carb off but when you reassemble there is nothing to stop this from turning in its tube.
I have cleaned the carb out, all passages clear. The accelerator pump works and the leather is OK.
Why does the gas flood through the carb? I have also run the cars pressure adjustable aux electric pump with the carb open but on the car and again the fuel level stays at the correct level in the bowl. I only use the pump for filling the carb after the car has been standing for sometime.
The battery is a double 6V high output type that will crank for hours, the plugs are probably fouled now as well, but I must sort the flooding
Carb is an EE23 original restored some time ago ie correct for this car.
There is no silt in the tank and the gas line is filtered
Any suggestions gratefully received.

There is only one way for the intake to flood with gasoline such that it flows out the manifold drain, and that's if the needle and seat don't seal, for whatever reason.

thanks this is very helpful, but what is the best way to solve it ? would you recommend changing to a rubber tipped valve or lap the existing with a paste? typically it doesn't flood when the float chamber is exposed, is there any way of stopping the valve from rotating though I cant see why the manual says it should be inserted with the triangular corner bottom most, it seemed to rotate every time the float was moved?

Don't know quite what to suggest. I've never used the Viton-tipped needles, and never heard of lapping the needle to the seat. Maybe you can take them apart (again?) and look for some subtle defect, or perhaps post some close-up photos and someone will see something that's thus far escaped notice?

Just a second thought, have you looked at the seat and the casting for some small crack? You've checked the float and it has no liquid inside and no evidence of a leak? Have you actually measured the fuel pressure in the line?

Could the float be waterlogged? Sometimes brass floats spring a leak, you can hear or feel gas sloshing around if you shake them. Cork floats soak up gas, the alcohol in today's gas washes off the shellac they are sealed with.

Ask if you want to know what to do about either of these problems.

Thanks again.

The float is OK, though they say you should heat it and put it in water to test properly, no sign of liquid inside and it functions OK when the carb is open and on the car and starter is turning etc. I will contact the carburetor shop today see what they say. I have a Viton tipped needle in my 120 and that sometimes floods as well!
I will also check the bowl vent to see that it was not blocked.
Interestingly the one of the accelerator jets was blocked at the tip where the pipe feeds through a hole in the main discharge tube, very difficult to unblock as the tube is soldered into the body and had to be bent to get it out of the hole. Previous owner had reported poor acceleration and this may be the reason, car was proffesionally restored so it shows these things can get missed.
I have not checked the pressure and am unsure of the best way to do this I hear that some mech pumps do give too much, and regulators can be fitted, with the bowl exposed it gives surges of fuel which splash out!

If the float is OK are the needle and seat OK? If so, do you have an electric fuel pump? Too much pressure will cause flooding.

Just a few more thoughts. If you're willing to consider a professional carburetor rebuild, in my view there are none better than Daytona Parts down in Florida. Their experience with EE-22/23 is extensive.

You can check the fuel pressure by inserting a Tee in the feed to the carburetor somewhere after the pump (use rubber tubing if easier) and place the pressure gauge in the Tee fitting perpendicular to the line. Initially turn off the electric pump and crank (or start) the engine. Pressure should be not less than 3 nor more than 5 psi. At that point optionally turn on the electric pump to see what pressure that's giving, though you say you use the electric just for priming so it's likely not part of the problem. But if the needle and seat are indeed leaking, the pressure readings taken this way will be faulty (lower) so you might want to plug off the line to the carburetor so their is no fuel flow and check in this manner. Pressure provided by the mechanical pump is determined by a spring that forces the diaphram upwards (discharge). If the mechanical pump pressure is too high (extremely uncommon) perhaps some bloke rebuilt the pump and used an incorrect spring?

If the needle/seat is leaking, its not really possible to get an accurate float setting by measuring the fuel level. The main discharge jets are properly just above the fuel level such that the vacuum generated by the venturi draws the gas from the jet tips. If the fuel level is too high they will be constantly force-fed by the fuel level.

Dear Owen

Thanks for the very helpful note I will contact Daytona Parts.

Regards


Marcus

My May 26 243 won't start. The pin you see if you take off the tiny spin off cover is in the down position, and clearly the carb is full of gas. Crank away, not even a hint of trying to start, varying throttle positions, choke on, choke off. Ran a few weeks ago. Also, valve at bottom of vac tank - tried open, closed.