Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Don't mess with starting either (fluid), the car doens't run on it, use gas! Get a plastic squeeze bottle, about a one pint size, with a tapered (pointed) spout. Fill that up with gas, remove the air cleaner and locate the bowl vent--easy on the Rochester 4GC, the brass tube protruding at an angle into the throat of the carb. Take the pointed spout of the priming bottle and fill the bowl via the vent tube until it overflows, then open the throttle plates and give a little squirt down the carb, just enough to kick the engine. The bowl full of gas should be enough to run the engine for 30 seconds or so, during which time the system should prime itself. If it doesn't, you know what to fix first. The problem with either is that it just gives a momentary "run", not enough to prime. I have used this methind for years, and started cars that weren't staying running at all on starting fluid.

Bernardi--the sound of the actuator changing gear positions is a fairly distinct sound, a sort of a rapid click-click-click-click (depending on where you start to where you finish), you can hear it here (note proper use of hominyms)
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If you push keys on the console and hear that noise, the actuator is working. The reverse lights will come on whether the actuator works or not, there is an additional contact on the console switching to send power to the B/U lights. You should also hear a pronounced click of the relays on the driver's side fender well.

Having re-awakened many sleeping giants (old cars) I would immediately get hold of then_now automotive (formerly the antique auto parts cellar) and get a fuel pump and carburetor kit. Don't even try, just assume that they are either kaput or marginal, waiting to fail when you can least afford them to. drop the tank and see what's up there, and get a new, fresh flex fuel line from the PAC region that has re-popped them (Minnesota?) each system in a car is a chain, and a chain is only as strong as..........................

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John is correct. The only use I've found for starting fluid is the instantaneous removal of an oil pan on a small block Chevy. (which was rather amusing to watch I might add!)

Thanks for the advice. We'll put it to the test today.

Bernardi

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Turbopackman--I have found that starting fluid is an optimal propellant for my potato cannon. I started out with aqua net hair spray, discovered (quite by chance) that Cutters insect reppelant works better, then took the final plunge to starting fluid once I saw my brother use it on his Cannon. I get about 500 years of spud travel using it.
I don't use it on cars.

If you must use starting fluid which generally contains an ether like diethyl ether, use abundant caution. The flash point is well below room temperature and depending on the particular ether could be below the freezing point of water. And mixtures in air of as little as 2% can form explosive mixtures (that's how it works as a starting fluid!). Some ethers in long storage can also form explosive peroxides.

The car was flat bedded to a local shop where a few things have been done. The mechanic is overworked and it has been slow going. I'm not currently in a position to work on it myself and some things are beyond me anyway.

1. The carburetor was cleaned and rebuilt. Someone had previously worked on it, installed an incorrect gasket that upset the air flow and screwed in all the way the air bleed screws. New gasket, new kit, and it purrs like a kitten.
2. Tank was cleaned and interior coated. Coated a little two well, in fact. The fuel outlet was clogged and the problem noted only after the tank was mounted. The fuel gage sending unit was coated with gunk and even carb cleaner wouldn't clean it. PB Blaster did, however. Will learn if it works when we fill the tank.
3. The push buttons work - usually. I've driven it around the shop's lot a few times. One of the front brakes tended to lock up when brakes were applied. Turned out that both front wheel grease seals were leaking badly. The grease was white and about the consistency of heavy motor oil. New seals are on order from NAPA, thanks to the X-reference that gave the NAPA part number. There is a "?" after 55-56 All in the x-reference. I'll let you know if it is correct for 56 senior cars shortly.
4. The push buttons some times don't work. After the car sits for awhile, they start to work again. Until the brakes are working, I can't take it on the road to see how it shifts.

My thanks to the folks who contribute to this thread. Learning about the Auto-Lite service bulletin for the push button controls is extremely valuable. Without your help I wouldn't own a Packard. I now have too many.

Bernardi