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On a 41 straight 8 is it hyd. or solid lift? And I would like to know specs. and adjustment procedure?

Depends on the engine. Here is a service letter having all the 41 specs.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SL-VOL14NO17.pdf There doesn't appear to be a 41 service manual on site but there are some tune up guides. 41 has info for the solid lifter engine and the 42 covers the hydraulic although those should not require any adjustment. Select search by year and find the one neededpackardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.category.php?18 Most 40 on Packard engines were similar in methods so if you download the 48-50 engine section of service manual it should give you an idea if more info needed..

Thanx much for the info! We have a potental customer with a 41 so I need to brush up on my Packard! If we get it in I'm sure you'll be seeing more of me. LOL

G'day KC's Classics,

to PackardInfo. Good that HH56 was able to provide some help. And if there are more questions please keep them coming.

Well I have determined that the engine we have is a 356c.i. 9 main straight 8 in a "41" Packard 180 1808 Touring Sedan. I have the car in my shop now and the lifters are hyd. I have pulled the side cover and found that #4 ex. lifter is collapsed and not pumping oil. Kanter has lifters available, does anyone know the procedure for changing lifters in this engine? Looks to me like the head has to be removed and then remove the valve and spring then pull the lifter out. Am I correct on this?

Yes, straight-forward job. Remove the head and the valve in question by using a valve spring compressor. Block the oil drain holes back to the crankcase so the keepers don't accidently fall into the oil pan!

On reassembly you'll want to use the special gauge block tool to insure you have proper clearance between the stem and the new lifter. I believe the tool is J-4540, it's been in repro for decades by Ron Carpenter. Directions for use of the gauge are in the service manual but essentially you put that cam lobe downwards, remove the lifter body and insert the gauge, and then, if necessary, grind the end of the valve stem so that the clearance is between 0.030 and 0.070. Generally this is only required after a valve grind but I'd do it now, just to be sure. It's a step often ignored doing valve grinds and the result has been the ruining of many lifters.

thanx very much for the quick response and the info. What I will probably do is quote it for replacing all the lifters just to be safe, I hate doing things twice and in this case 16 times LOL I think this would be the smart thing to do just to cover my butt and so I can warranty it!

O_D, I've never had to service the lifters or valves in my '47's 356, but am correct in thinking that only the lifter internals are serviced; that complete lifter assemblies are no longer available? Also, are not the lifter bodies of the "tulip" design where the camshaft must be removed to remove them?

(o{I}o)

Yes, correct. Except in cases where the cam-follower bases (which are machined on a slight radius) become so worn and/or pitted where they ride on the cam that they need to be replaced or reground, in which case you have to remove the camshaft to remove them.

When I did my 48 Custom 8 engine oh so many years ago, I had both the cam polished and the cam-followers re-radiused and polished. I don't know the thickness of the case-hardening, but we removed about 0.010" to resurface them.

Quote:Yes this I was aware of, I checked the travel (lift) on the lifter in question and it seems to be in spec so I don't think there is a problem with the lifter body or cam lobe so I should be able to just service the internals and be fine.