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Kevin, I don't want prophesy (doom and) destruction but scratch my head with a view to the coarseness of the dirt. Such a large amount of rust rather asks for a conical strainer than a filter. The job of a filter is it to filter and not to sift. I'm afraid that you will have again to clean the tank. My guess is that the muriatic acid made its job but it hasn't succeeded to get the rust out of the tank.
Another issue are the microparticles. Even the fine meshed filters e.g. cigarette filters fail and have a lifetime of only five minutes.
Once I picked up a Chaika and after 30 miles the rust forced me to clean the retrofitted electrical fuel pump. I had no work light, the night was cold, you know what I'm talking about (no, I wasn't barefoot ).
I got the pump out of the car and cleaned it by every trick of the book. Additional I have cut the fuel pipe and installed an in-line fuel filter. Two months later I again disassembled the pump to check its membrane. The in-line fuel filter was fawn and the pump was well filled with brown powder.

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Kevin, nice job on the bumper. I believe the AACA judging does not deduct for having the insides of bumpers painted an aluminum finish. Also,in my opinion, it blends better than a black painted bumper inside. Keep up the good work. Enjoy the story and photos.

(o{I}o)

What a difference in that bumper! Amazing what a little elbow grease accomplishes!

Hello Bigkev, have u ever made that how to rebuild the carb? i am planning to rebuild the carb this weekend, just got my kit from te carb doctor, bcz my carb was leaking at the throttle linkage, and engine used too much fuel and caughs out black smoke sometimes. was hoping u got some tips for rebuilding or reassembling. well i was thinking to just use it as a daily driver, but ... i always feel the need to restore, like i did with several cars such as a ford bb truck from `33, beetles, `68 jag, porsche 356, and morris series 8. well this Packard is completely new for me :) i hope i can knock on ur door sometimes for knowledge.

Hi Jerome. Not sure what you mean by leaking at the "linkage" but leaking at the throttle shaft can and often is a sign of the throttle shaft and/or the carburetor base shaft holes being worn excessively, and this is something that a rebuild kit will not address. Normally the base must be drilled, bushings installed, and a new or replacement throttle shaft installed. Even w/o the leaking issue, wear at the shaft can make an engine run poorly as it's a route for reduced vacuum in the venturi.

You should be able to tell if this is a problem just by a good wiggle test. It's also possible that something like a leaking or sunk float or defective needle and seat could cause leaking there. The latter would be addressed by a rebuild kit, but not the former.

I think you've just got to take it apart and see what you've got to work with before deciding on what course to take. Good carb rebuilders will drill/ream and install throttle shaft bushings when needed, but its also not a hard job for a good home-machinist.

Thanx Owen, well i got the machines to do alot, lets hope the damage isnt that big, but for every problem there is a solution i like to say.

Nice work BigKev! I am always inspired when I look at your work.

Thanks Guy, I appreciate the nice words.

Final piece of the DMV puzzle is in place. PIcked up the vanity plates for the Clipper. Car is now titled, registered, and plated. And smog check exempt!

Big step! Congratulations.