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Repace Coil
#1
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Miles Whetham
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How do I replace the coil on my 42 Clipper. It is the type that goes throught the firewall and has a heavy shielded cable that goes to the ignition switch. I don't see how these assemblies are supposed to come apart. Is the cap on the end of the coil supposed to slip off? I haven't been able to move mine. HELP!!!

Thanks,
Miles

Posted on: 2011/2/14 14:27
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Re: Repace Coil
#2
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HH56
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Am not 100% sure the 42 is the same but think so, and here is the 47 setup. The coil end cap tabs unclip or uncrimp and then wire is accessed.

Attach file:



jpg  (41.84 KB)
209_4d598d0e48453.jpg 640X617 px

Posted on: 2011/2/14 15:14
Howard
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Re: Repace Coil
#3
Home away from home
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packard1949
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Does anyone have a reasonable priced source for this type of coil? The last few I have seen were going for $120-375. I have purchased a generic coil and plan on running a wire down the side to attach to the armored wire.

Posted on: 2011/2/15 8:40
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Re: Repace Coil
#4
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Joe Santana
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I bought one for my 1940 that connects at the top as in the photo from David Moe. But you could place a wanted ad in the For sale, Wanted Forum here. Try all the usual suspects like Kanter and Max Merritt, though I suspect those prices are premium. Or search on eBay and perhaps find good electrical parts suppliers who have the goods, but don't advertise in Packard publications.

Posted on: 2011/2/16 9:57
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Re: Repace Coil
#5
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Owen_Dyneto
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Age, especially when coupled with heat are the enemies of coils, so in buying an NOS one, or especially a used one, you incur some risk of poor coil performance, either now or down the road. If you are looking for a reliable car for touring, there are two other options, one expensive and one inexpensive, that you might want to consider.

There are companies that will gut your coil canister and replace the internals with modern components. This has been especially popular on the 33-34 Eights and Super Eights where the coils mount on the cylinder head and are thus exposed to considerable heat. Not an inexpensive proposition.

A inexpensive option is to leave your current coil in it's proper position on the car, but gut the interior. Mount a modern 6-volt universal coil somewhere under the dash, and route the high tension and primary leads of the replacement coil thru the canister such that it's not obvious that it's not a functioning coil. NAPA/Echlin or Standard new universal coils are probably in the range of $25 or so.

Posted on: 2011/2/16 10:19
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Re: Repace Coil
#6
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JWL
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O_D, EXCELLENT suggestion for firewall mounted coils!

(o{I}o)

Posted on: 2011/2/16 12:31
We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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Re: Repace Coil
#7
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Miles Whetham
See User information
Thanks for all the info and help!! I managed to get mine out but it did not have tabs that get bent out. The cap has to rotate about 3/8" counterclockwise and then pull off. Unfortunately, having been in there for about 70 years, It did not rotate as it should have. I did manage to get it off with no real damage though. I have decided to replace mine with a rebuilt one from Max Merrit. Thanks again for the help,

Miles

Posted on: 2011/2/18 15:26
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Re: Repace Coil
#8
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packard1949
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I have not had to do this yet. I purchased a generic coil with a mounting plate. I plan to run a black wire beside the coil to connect to the armored wire from the ignition switch.

It will be difficult to detect but not completely hidden.

$100-300 is too much for a coil and a crap shoot with NOS parts.

Posted on: 2011/2/18 16:51
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