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Not sure which is rarer, the door lock or the panel.

Used door locks are almost dime a dozen, new maybe a bit less plentiful, but good upholstery is not easily found.

You mentioned the ghetto rigged lock broke. Could you be a bit more specific as to what happened or which piece. If you mean the inside knob and it has the sliding lock knob on the panel itself that just unscrews, the rod may have just tipped back and caught on the sheetmetal. With the window down, it may be possible to carefully insert a long thin strip of metal between the glass and belt weatherstrip to move it aside.

Everyone thank you so much for your help!

So, please no one laugh at me for this but I went to go try to the door again this morning. Well, I got in through the passenger door and tried to pull the driver door handle to no avail. Went and locked and unlocked from the outside, went back to the inside, then back to the outside. Then I went back in finally kinda of leaned against the door and laid on the seat fed up, and just gingerly put my hand on the door handle and it flung right open!!!!!! I was so confused. Well turns out I just never felt the door unlatch through the handle so I thought it wasn't unlocking, turns out it was. I feel like such an idiot, and that I have no car knowledge now =(

But I got it open and a deputy is coming to do my VIN inspection within the hour!!!!!

Thanks everyone again for your help! Hope you got a little laugh out of my situation lol!

Will be starting building blog shortly! Stayed tuned!

Nothing to laugh about because we've probably all been there in some way or another. Just glad your "problem" turned out well and was simple.

Glad it turned out well, we've all been in one such situation or another where we later whacked our head over what we missed.

If you'd be so kind as to PM me the VN and the thief-proof number for my continuing research on the subject, I'd appreciate it. The thief-proof is the embossed number on the engine side of the cowl, over the heater box. It's enclosed by brackets and should begin with an alpha character, probably a B or C, and followed by 5 digits, as for example <D12345>.

Thanks.

So it turns out the firewall number and the door number are the same. Didn't someone say that was rare to have?

Anyway I got all my paperwork done, sent them all to the previous owner he's filling them out and sending them back monday. Then it's going to be about a month before Kentucky can "find" an original title from the archives. Then just have to transfer the car over to me and then restoration will FINALLY begin, after have the car for over 6 months I will finally be the owner haha.

I'll be making another post in regards to 6v to 12volt swap if any can chime in to help out!

Owen_Dyento the VN is 2652 4876. I will be working on her today or tomorrow and can get the stamped number off the firewall then.

Didn't someone say that was rare to have?

Not quite, I said it was common to match on 51-54, less than common on 47-50.

Thanks for the VN, looking forward to the thief-proof number when you can get it. I've now got complete sets of both numbers (plus engine #s, Briggs #s, etc. on some) for over 2000 Packards from 1929 (first use of the thief-proof #) thru 1956.