Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

HH56 is right on target, a combination of a steady diet of "D" driving (more or less the equivalent of starting in "L" and manually shifting to "H" on the older Ultramatics), the higher torque of the V8, and a heavy foot is what lead to the less-than-sterling reputation of the Twin Ultramatic in the first place and is just about guaranteed to lead to continued rebuilds.

I almost never use the "D" position in my 56 Caribbean and try to always ease up on the accelerator as it approaches the shift point. I don't know the prior history of the transmission but it has 89,000 miles on it (probably had a rebuild somewhere in its past) and performs well with no problems. At one time I used Dexron/Mercon but abandoned it years ago in favor of Type F which is closer in formulation to the original Type A. The changeover from Dexron to Type F eliminated the occasional clutch groan which has not reappeared since then.

PackardV8 -

At times, when driving in the "D" range in one of my Patricians, which is equipped with pushbutton selector, the high range clutch would not always engage, following the release of the low band - causing a little "flare" in engine RPM. Yet, if I back off the gas pedal first and then punch the "H" button - whoop, there it is (high range engaged).

Later, when researching Studebaker bulletins on Packards, an article on "Adjusting Actuator-to-Transmission Control Valve Detent" in Studebaker Service Bulletin #338 caught my eye, but before I could dig into that, I landed a Carib Hardtop (no problem with flare on that one). I'm looking to pickup where I left off with that old Pat, but I wanna carefully check all other adjustments before diving in on that bulletin.

Meanwhile, your suggestion to:

Quote:
...rings a bell and may fit the scenario of that bulletin, as well.

Another thought I've had in this regard is that the braking action in the actuator motor may need attention. I'm thinking of that as a last resort, but the Autolite service manual, available for download from this site, seems to cover that procedure quite well.

Hotrod -

After all of the additional discussion, here, I'm thinking that your best first step would be a fluid change; while you're ate it, clean the governors, which can be done with just the pan off. Though it could be something else gummed up, fresh ATF may help break up what you can't clean without a complete disassembly - surely, worth a try.

You're gonna have to drop the pan to check the torque on the valve body bolts, anyway.

However, don't mess with any adjustments until you've read the shop manual procedures AND checked all the related bulletins for updates.

G'day all, especially Hotrod. Sorry to have come in so late in this thread. I would suggest that Randy's advice about a possible sticking valve is very probable. I would also suggest that you check your throttle linkage adjustment. This is particularly important because your accelerator position has a huge effect on when the gear changes take place. The change may also take over 5 seconds after you lift your foot.
In H you are starting off in converter drive using the high range clutch and the change point into Direct Drive clutch at light - medium throttle is normally at about 25 - 30 mph. This is a combination of throttle pressure and Governor pressure, probably more Governer pressure on light throttle. Once into Direct Drive, the high range clutch and the Direct drive clutch operate from the rear pump and the larger front pump ceases to drive the system and goes into coasting mode.
In D you are starting off using the low range band and converter. The low range band releases depending on throttle position and governor pressure and the high range clutch takes over, operating after this just as if you were in H. The high range clutch continues to operate when the direct drive clutch operates to take the slip out of the converter In theory, the change speed depends on throttle pressure from your accelerator position and governor pressure from the speed of your tailshaft shift. I would check the throttle lever first. Best regards Peter Toet

Unless there's evidence of previous tinkering, I prefer to leave throttle linkage adjustments as a last resort, but only because there were several changes involving the procedure since the advent of the Gear Start Ultramatic (and the automatic upshift from low to high).

Given the recommendation in the previous post, I'm gonna try to cover the salient articles published in the Service Counselor (SC) and Studebaker Service Bulletin (SSB) and reprinted in the "Complete Ultramatic Service Information" books - all of which, I believe, are archived here at PackardInfo in the Articles section.

Before adjusting anything, since the linkage involves a solid rod, you should check for a damaged or improperly bent rod. Rod length data was provided for 24th-55th Series in SC Vol. 29, No. 4 (p. 26) and reiterated in SSB No. 340 (p. 7), but supplemental rod length data was provided for 56th Series in SSB No. 344 (p. 4).

Also while a "Throttle Control Shaft Lever Extension Kit" was released to alter the linkage geometry and eliminate unwanted kickdown for 55th Series in SC Vol. 29, No. 7 (p. 36), that application was extended to early 56th Series in SC Vol. 29, No. 12 (p. 65). I'm not sure whether this would apply to your car, though.

The corrected procedures for adjusting the throttle linkage for each Series was reviewed in SC Vol. 30, No. 5 (p. 18). However, since the remaining Studebaker dealers took over service for Packards in later years, throttle linkage adjustment corrections and variations were revisited in SSB No. 340 (p. 7).

Someone feel free to chime in if I missed one.