Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi I have a 51 200 deluxe and its been leaking oil, so I'm replacing the gasket. I've removed all the bolts and the pan dropped down but I don't have enough room to remove the pan. Is there a trick to this? Thanks

From memory, service manual not handy.

Remove lower flywheel cover

remove oil pickup screen -bolts on either side of crankshaft

rotate crankshaft so pan clears weights

often pans this old get rust pinholes in them at the botton and leak. clena the pan then in a dark garage put a light inside pan and see if there are any holes

And drop the steering idler arm (right side frame rail) to provide more clearance.

I've done this twice:

No need to remove the pickup, but it really helps if you jack up the front of the motor to get clearance between the engine crossmember and the bottom of the engine. This also make reassemble a lot easier as far as those pan bolts above the member are hard to get to.

Just need to remove the nuts from the top of the front engine mounts and then jack the front of the motor up using a block of wood under the dampner/crank pulley.

Then you should be able to get the pan out and in easier. Depending on where the crankshaft weights are, you may have to rotate to get the front of the pan clean. The pan will slide out toward the transmission. Move the steering linkage to get the center link at it's lowest point. That makes it easier. So folks have dropped the center link for maximum clearance.

Hope this helps.

Thanks I'll give it a try.

I've had a lot of motors out of a lot of cars, but this is my first Packard ('54 Clipper). For me, I would pull the engine/tranny and put it on a stand to work on it. Unless of course, there is something different that I'm not seeing.

This also give you the opportunity to work on some other little nagging things that you might be letting go.

Your going to need a long puller and stout stand. You are talking about ~1300lbs of weight and over 6' in length with the engine and transmission together.

Really no need to remove the engine/trans to change a pan gasket. Perhaps it would be easier to leave the engine/trans where it is and just remove the rest of the car from around it. Would recomend renting a sky hook.

It's been many years since I removed a pan, now I recall that lowering the steering linkage is the trick.

Fred and Big Kev are correct in all details. I had the same issues when I removed the pan on my 51 200. If Murphy is alive and well in your garage like mine, the crank will be in exactly the wrong postion to allow the pan to drop. My spare pan had a number of small pin holes in it, just like Fred mentioned. As long as you clean the pan with carb cleaner or something similar, you can solder up the holes. A propane torch sometimes works better than Mapp gas, as the Mapp gas can get too hot.

Be sure to tag the extra long bolts that go into the clutch housing. They have specific holes to go into. And don't get crazy with the torque wrench. I like to use a short handle 3/8 socket set, so I don't over tighten the oil pan bolts. Also, put a light coat of oil on the bottom of the engine, and ATV only on the pan. This way, when you need to remove the pan again, you don't toast your gasket. Or have to spend a half hour scraping the old gasket scraps off the block.

If you do pull the engine, life is much easier if you remove the hood (after you mark the hood with an awl so that you can put in back in the same postion - good tape also works, but not a Sharpie) and remove the radiator. I cut out the cross brace on the radiator support and rewelded it back in after I put the engine back in. Much easier.

Don't have the equipment to pull engine or I would. If I undo the center steering linkage how hard is it to put back together. It looks like just a couple a large nuts or maybe just one side would do it or am I missing something here that would cause me grief? Thanks