Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Thanks for all the advice. I will go out and play a bit later today. I did check the bulb with ohm meter, checked ok. Kickdown switch I just made sure the wires were connected. I think four wires, but not sure how to check these, which ones should show open or closed depending on position of the button. I did open the governor to carefully clean the points, pushed the little tab inside that pops the points closed and took the ohm meter from the end of the wire to inside contact and there was continuity. It looks new inside and when I spin by hand the two weights move and the inside spring does move up. Perhaps not enough, what I might be able to do is hold the governor in a jig and spin with an electric drill and check the wire with an ohm meter. As for the solenoid, I did not take any wires off, but one did come off and I put it back on. I can feel around the solenoid and that they are still all attached at this time. Something I thought of, is the solenoid is very tricky trying to get it hooked inside of the case. I am reasonably sure that this last time I did get it hooked as I pulled on it a bit and it would not come straight out of the hole. But, when bolting in plate the two bolts needed to put pressure on the solenoid to get it seated, I can't remember if this would be correct. Thanks again.

I recall trhat the solenoid plunger seal on my '47 went bad once and would not let the plunger move competely in and out so maybe that is the problem although a long shot. Does the light come on when you drive it over the governor speed and you should hear the solenoid energize with a click when it does. The point set is adjustable with that screw but I don't know what the point gap should be. Unless you were fooling around with the points it shouldn't be the problem. You could easily test the wire connection on top of the governor with a continuity meter or test light if you take it off.

Went out for a minute before I need to run some errands. When grounding the passenger side of the lock out switch, the red light does come on. There is continuity between the two terminals of the lock out switch, it is 50 ohms which is alot, but probably has always been that way, may or may not be correct.

Did you check the kickdown switch?

Ther is also a reverse lockout switch that should be checked. However, if the car is not in reverse and the switch is on, and you ground terminal #4 on the relay and you hear the relay click and the solenoid engage, there are only two possibilities left. The first is the governor not working or the solenoid not seated correctly.
To check the governor. follow the procedure with a drill you listed. If that works, remove the solenoid and try reconnecting it to the pawl. I'm sure you know to be careful doing this as the pawl can be broken.

I don't think that the reverse lock out switch was put on the R-9 overdrive cars at least not until 1948 or there abouts. I know that my '47 does not have one and the 46-50 reprint manual mentions a retrofit. In any event a good ide ato check if there is one. My experience has been that the the solenoid can be put in upside down so maybe you have it in wrong and the shaft is binding? Did you energize the solenoid when you put it back in? The rod must be fully extended to reach the pawl.

There is no reverse switch. I did not energize the solenoid when put back in this time, because when I had it out a number of years ago got it back in without doing so. So I think later today I will recheck the governor and energize the solenoid to take out and then put back in. But I do believe that the rod is connected. The solenoid is not upside down as I left the wires connected while servicing the clutch. You talk about binding, I do remember this last time the adaptor plate seems not to make a difference as to which direction, the shaft hole does seem to line up with the solenoid shaft. But, I will check again. So many good ideas thanks.

I know that I was never able to get the rod into the slot without it being fully extended. I would try that and see what happens. I know how much of a PITA it is to get in right. Good luck.

Ok, got to spend a few quiet minutes on this, and thought I would do the easiest thing first from all of the suggestions. I pulled out the governor. Made sure I had continuity from inside points to the outside wire. Put it in a vise and spun by electric drill having an ohm meter connected to outside wire and ground. Could not get continuity. Opened up the top for the third or fourth time and bent the copper a bit, still nothing. One last try took out the gasket and put the lid back on. Guess what, it works. Well, I can leave it without the gasket or possibly buy a top from Max Merritt. What do you think? Thanks to all of you again (until it doesn't work again). Todd Los Angeles.

Good. Sounds like you found the problem.
As a point of clarification, My 47 has the reverse lockout switch. Also the volume 21 No. 14 service counselor dated August1, 1947 shows one in the wiring diagram for 1947. They state it is a new switch. Oops, my mistake.