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I was cleaning up my block today in preps for paint, and found this crack. Also the middle freeze plug appears to be twisted. The car didn't appear to leak coolant, but I've only had it running for about thirty minutes before I took it apart. The car did heat up a little, but I had not diagnosed it prior to embarking on the frame restoration.

A little clarification- the pictures are on the drivers side of the block, between #5 and #6 cylinders. 1937 115c.

How serious is this? Should I be looking for a new motor?

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Well, as we mentioned in another thread about an old boat i had....

Listen, you could have it welded by a pro and coat it with JB weld and if it doesn't leak you're good IF it's not leaking water internally (check the oil pan) and the cylinders aren't distorted.

It's a rig job for sure, but it'd work. Others mentioned drilling it and plugging it and coating it with epoxy.

You could try to rig it while you looked for another block, and if it holds for a long time, just give up the search.

My opinion for what its worth. An external crack like that should repair permanently using the interlocking pin method providing there is enough thickness in the casting to hold the pins and it is done by someone experienced with that type of repair.Google Metalok and you will find lots of information about the process

Its not a DIY job. I have seen far worse external cracks repaired and still OK many years and miles later. If you had it welded the block would require all machined surfaces and cylinders to be re-machined after the repair.

Obviously if a better block became available then that would be the preferred option.

It may be worth looking into having it tested. There are a number of non distructive methods that may give you some idea as to how serious the 'crack' is including electrostatic and ultrasonic testing. I have seen similar features that were simply shallow casting flaws, not cracks at all.

If all you are doing is painting the engine I would be tempted to continue on as you were and worry about it if it does prove to be a problem. Seems to me it was there before you striped the paint off the block... Having said that I wouldn't be spending a bucket of money or a heap of time on a rebuild without knowing exactly what is going on.

Typical minor freeze damage.

Two questions and my suggestions

Did the car run before you stripped the paint off? If it ran without issue then leave it alone.

Did it leak? If not then leave it alone. It is a non-pressurized system.

If the engine needs rebuilding now then look for another block, must be 37 to be authentic as 38-47 use a different water pump which is not interchangable

Ken, there is a 1937 115 engine on eBay right now for $285. I doubt you could even fix your block for that. I'd snatch it up if I were you, the seller also says he will ship it.
Good luck.
Todd

Dear Ken:

Given the amount of work you are doing I would do some more investigation.

If the block cracked due to overheating of badly corroded cast iron then when you run the motor it might leak hot coolant all over your hard work. Or crack in other places and do the same.

Take out the casting plugs and inspect the inside of your block.

If the block is badly rusted then it is not worth fixing.

It should be flushed out anyway. Especially the water distribution tube behind the water pump.

Good luck.

The crack is at the most common place for freeze cracks. The freeze plug being partially pushed out is caused by only one thing, freeze damage. Neither of these mean that the block is not rusted to the point of weakness also but in 51 years of Packarding I've never seen one.

Lots of choices. If nothing else, for the moment I'd drill a small hole at each end of the crack to spread any residual stress out over a larger perimeter and thus keep the crack from possibly propagating. Try JB Weld to fill the hole and crack, or thread the drilled holes for a threaded plug which can then be cut and filed off flush. JB Weld for the remainder of the crack. Then keep your fingers crossed. Check the oil to insure no internal leak.

Metal stitching as has been mentioned is the classic method for a good permanent fix if you can find someone skilled in the practice. But it requires precision drilling and threading and I'm not sure that such precision can be obtained with the block in the car.

Welding is another excellent solution but done properly for a permanent fix will require not only a skilled practioner but the entire block to be stripped of all internal parts, heated to an elevated temperature for welding with special rods, and then controlled cooling at a prescribed number of degrees per day. Since the heating and cooling of the block could have distorted it, this should be followed with line-honing of the main bearing blocks, possibly decking the block head and pan surfaces, cylinder boring, and perhaps yet more to retrue the block. It's expensive to have done - generally only done for castings which are irreplaceable.

Not much experience with brazing but I have seen similar cracks so repaired that seem to hold up. I have no idea what's involved.

Will some folks will never learn to check their anti-freeze?

Thanks for all the tips guys!

Owen, welcome back from vacation. I hope Europe was grand.

Snapey, the engine isn't being rebuilt, just repainted! It makes good compression, and my car is something of a basket case already, so I'm trying to keep it simple.

The plan is to use the OD method- I'll take it to a machine shop next week to get the holes tapped (yes, I could do it myself, but I thought pipe threads in cast iron would be better left to the pros), and JB weld it before I get the car temporarily back together.

Follow-on question- what should I use for the plugs? Cast iron pipe plugs is my thought, fairly small, so the hole doesn't have to be too big and the thermal coefficent of expansion is the same.