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OK-I finally got under the car. Lead #3 shows 4.2 ohm to ground. #4 at the solenoid shows open which it should since there is a contact inside the solenoid that must make to hold it in.
Next the ground wire that bolts to the OD case is not connected. I assume there is a connection point near where the centrigual mech lead exits.

I tried and put battery voltage on #3 is see if I could get the solenoid to do something-no luck. I suspect the solenoid is mechancially locked or something in the OD mechanism is jamed. What happens to just remove the solenoid? Will gear out pour out? What is the installation procedure for the solenoid?

thks

David

3 and 4 at the solenoid are both coils. 3 is the hold in coil and is connected directly to ground so that reading is probably OK but seems a bit high. 4 is the heavy pull in coil and it does go thru a contact to ground. The contact is closed with the solenoid in the normal off position and you should have little to no ohms or almost direct short to ground. The contact's purpose is to open the pull in coil once the solenoid is engaged. That may be your problem--either the contact has burned or pitted & is open or the coil has burned out because the solenoid was energized but could never engage and open the contact. Servicing and cleaning the contact was a normal maintenance procedure.

Removing should not result in a gush of oil. When you test the solenoid, 3 and 4 both have to be connected at the same time. 3 can't pull in against the spring alone so 4 does the work. As soon as the solenoid plunger is out, the contact opens and releases that coil & that is where 3 comes in to play--holding. Without 3 the solenoid will "machine gun". Not remembering any ground wire at the transmission but maybe someone added one. Usually it just gets ground via all the metal in the car.

If you open the solenoid, the 4 terminal screws have to be completely removed when trying to take off the top cover half.

Here is a different year schematic showing the solenoid and relay contacts better. Have you got the Electromatic training manual available on site?

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Thanks Howard-The contact in the solenoid for the coil connected to lead 4 is suppose to be closed and this is the pull in coil? I suspect this is my problem

The solenoid can be serviced? Can it be service without removal? There are several vendors that sell these things-all are rather expensive~$250-300.

I have read the Econodrive manual a couple of times. It states to remove the solenoid energize it and till it toward the rear of the car. If the solenoid is not operating will it still come out? I guess I am trying to find someone who has actually done this to understand the problems etc.

thks

David

To remove the solenoid do as the manual suggests.Once the two bolts are removed tilt the solenoid towards the rear, pull it back and the solenoid will come free. To install the solenoid must be energized however so that the rod is extended. It takes practice but once you learn the technique it work fine. There is a spacer between the solenoid and the O/D case which must be put back on the way it came off. Inside the spacer is a small hard rubber washer . My car once had a solenoid engagement problem and it was solved by replacing this washer. I bought a new one from Max Merritt. It might be a good time to replace yours also. I would not attempt to service the solenoid while attached to the car. It is easy to remove and work at a bench.

The solenoid can be serviced?

What about operating the car with the solenoid removed?

Is the replacing the solenoid a "feel" procedure or can you see where it is going?

Did you have the car on a lift when doing this or jack stands or?

thks

David

The solenoid can be serviced. There is a replacement contact repair kit listed in section 4 of the 47 parts manual--finding one may still be possible ??? but cleaning and dressing the points will probably be the option. If the coil itself is burned out then I think replacement is the only option.

I don't know about operating the car. Probably not a good idea. With no solenoid, the pawl would likely slip down, try to engage and cause problems or damage something--particularly if using reverse. Also the oil coming out would be a consideration so the hole would have to be blocked somehow.

Replacing is mostly a feel situation. As mentioned above, it is also important to orient things properly. There is a very subtle difference by sight so making an orientation mark on the solenoid, spacer and transmission before removing the solenoid so you can see the proper arrangement might help in that respect when reinstalling.

Jack stands are OK. You just need to be able to reach the area comfortably.

Howard, if one were willing could the solenoid be accessed from the top by cutting a hole in the floorboard?

(o{}o)

John, I suppose it's possible but don't know if anyone's tried. IIRC there was a poster who cut a hole -- to work on a governor in a 22-3 series I believe -- so maybe he could answer better.

Would wonder about a few things though. One would be the size of hole needed to get hands or tools in to work and then fabricating the larger plate with the curves for the hump or adding a flange to the original that would be needed to cover it back up. Another would be whether the seat goes far enough back for any tool angles or other access needed. My car is apart but just guessing where it is, looks like it would be fairly close to front of seat. Still another question would be if a hole could be cut with the OD in place or is it too close to body to get any saw action.

You could cut the hole with a cutting wheel. Perfect when you have stuff underneath that could be in the way. But the downside is the shower of sparks.

I believe that some there are cutting wheel type tools now out there that cold work similar to a "cold" chop saws, and don't create sparks when they cut.

But I still think compromising a good floor would be the last choice I would want to make to get at the OD if there were other options available.

My '47 had a large inspection plate to access the top of the trans. Doe the '49 not have that plate. In any event I recall pulling a solenoid from a parts car which was sitting with the frame on the ground by accessing this opening but there isn't a lot of room to get at the solenoid. Maybe with smaller hands? I would recommend lifting the car and placing it on solid jack stands as access from beneath is probably better.