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" but they only started to deform the cap."

I assume that means that the square on the plug crushed or collapsed as if it were hollow????

Is it a solid piece of iron or steel or is it a sheet metal formed plug with a square head on it???

Here is a simple trick for removing square head pipe plugs.

Use a suitable socket wrench extension reversed so the square female end goes on the plug.

Then, use a 12 point socket and ratchet handle on the male end of the extension.

If you have already buggered the plug too bad to do this, file it square and try again. If it is real bad you can file it down and use the next smaller extension.

When you put it back in (best buy a new plug) use teflon tape and do not overtighten.

For you Americans Mole Grip pliers = Vise Grips.

Re reading the thread, now I am not sure if you have a pipe plug or a straight thread plug with a washer and a square head.

In really desperate circs it is possible to weld a nut onto the plug and remove it with a socket wrench. Personally I have never had to go that far but it can be done.

What often happens is the oil is changed by some bodger who over tightens it to stop a drip, rather than replace a 5P washer. Then it takes real muscle to get it loose if they don't strip the threads, and you have to replace the plug.

Here's what it looks like:

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Dear kts:

The torque spec for a 56 V-8 drain plug is 25-30 ftlbs and for my modern car 22-29 ftlbs. Multiply by 1.3333 to get Newton Meters. It doesn't take much to exceed that even with a six inch wrench.

Combustion condensate can also get in the threads and cause corrosion.

You could buy an eight point square socket, but my guess is you need to get the car on a lift to achieve proper leverage. Two sets of hands as well. One to hold the wrench in place.

If the oil is still in the motor you will never get it hot enough to expand the aluminum.

I would get the car on a lift, get the oil out, and carefully heat the area until the oil is starting to boil, then put the square socket or wrench on the thing and have your assistant hold and lightly tap the whole affair while you are pulling.

If the thing was overtightened because it is a chronic slow dripper then put a pan under car. Also, if the washer is missing that can cause big problems.

Good luck

Thanks again chaps.

I have ordered the socket wrench adaptor mentioned by Rusty.

Plan A is to grind the chamfer edge off the new 3/4 square socket to get a good tight fit and then apply an open end 1" spanner with an extension bar. I can hold the socket firmly against the plug with a bottle jack underneath. (never like my fingers too close when applying 100ft lb of torque!!


Plan B is to put the old filter back on and take it down to my local garage. They have pneumatic wrenches and if they use 3/4" drives, they can put it up on the lift and apply the gun straight to it. The run to the shop will also warm the oil in the pan.

I am ordering a new plug from the supplier suggested by Owen Dynetto.

I'll post pictures of the procedure (an possible injuries!!) shortly!!

KT;
Go back and look at the pictures that OD posted above. Altho my computer resolution is poor it appears to me that the square portion of the plug is is not solid but rather hollow.

If your current efforts to remove the plug has not caused any leakage then just leave it alone and change the oil by removing the plate that OD suggested above.

IF the square getts ruptured (because it is hollow and therefore weak) then the plug will require removal in pieces by cuttting it out. Labour intensive.

Dear kts:

Highly recommended that you have an assistant lightly tap while you are pulling.

Stick a magnet to it to determine if it is iron/steel or brass. Based of OD's picture i've ran into a few plugs like that that were brass or maybe copper and hollow square head. Very weak. easy to cut out in pieces with hack saw blade provided one is careful not to cut into threads.

It's steel.