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Friday 30th September 2011

First up re-installed the left front mudguard(fender) stay on Fleurette. Oh-oh! The stay is upside down in the pic I took! Will fix it Noel, not to worry. Wade had taken Fleurette home on Wednesday night and confirmed yesterday, after returning to the workshop and putting her on the hoist, that it is the pinion seal leaking. Noel, looks like another under car cleaning job is in your future. However, because Noel is going to use Fleurette next week, that repair will have to wait. And last night Wade had taken Emily home after refilling the engine and trans and topping up the diff. Emily is going well, although the fan belt was squealing when he arrived this morning. After checking the brake fluid level the fan belt squeal was attended to by that age old trick of applying soap. It's very effective, in fact my '41 120 sometimes exhibits the same symptom and I've taken to keeping a cake of soap in the glovebox so it can be addressed quickly if it occurs.

With nothing more that could be done on Fleurette or Emily at this stage, what to do? After some maintenance on Wade's mechanics creeper, a wheel was loose, turned to The Fossil.

Wade had tried fitting the right frame rail cover yesterday but struck a snag. After spending hours on Wednesday fabricating what was termed a spacer, to replicate the "correct" one Wade had, it appears that it probably does not go on top of the frame rail as first appeared. In doing it that way the frame rail cover sits far to far off the front frame horn in an obvious state of misalignment. The front of the frame rail cover is some 3" to 4" off the frame and to apply force to bend it to fit would kink the cover. It appears, and can anybody with a '34('33 is probably the same) confirm that the spacer is in fact a fastener? It could be a fastener affixing to the lower end of a stud screwed into the frame rail cover which is then held to the frame rail by the fastener which actually fits under the top of the frame rail and sits inside the below radiator valance panel. Can anybody confirm or deny this hypothesis? If so it would be greatly appreciated. Also learned today the frame rail cover must be in place before the mudguards(fenders) are mounted so the solution here will permit further progress. I've also created this thread in the Pre-War Forum linked back to this post to gain a wider audience.

Snookered on that front, what else needed to be done of The Fossil? Quite a lot, but what could be done now? For some things, Wade wants to wait until The Fossil is hoisted skyward courtesy of his latest workshop toy. For others it's because of impediments needing to be overcome in order to progress. One of these impediments was the hole in the left "firewall support bracket". The original wiring harness passed through this hole but the new harness wont! Why is this? Because the new harness contains extra wires for, amongst other things, turn signals and driving lights. Once the harness can be routed through this hole installation and wiring of the dash and instruments can then be attended to. To enlarge the hole, a very large drill bit would be required but because of space limitations wasn't practical. However a rotary file or rasp in an air tool would work. Only trouble was the rotary files/rasps had been borrowed the previous evening by one of John's mates and weren't back. Fortunately John was going to ABC Bearings and the guy in question lived close by and he was able to pick them up. When John returned it didn't take long to rotary file/rasp away sufficient metal for the new harness to fit.

During the time John was away another minor fix was started. This involved the upper edge of the front window frames and its visibility. When I say the window frame, it is the upper edge of the channel/frame the window sits in, and with the front windows wound up this edge is noticeably visible. The rear windows, when wound up, don't suffer from this. To correct this it was decided to pack the window channel a little at the top and sides so that when fully up the window sits a little lower. We were partway through doing this on the left window when PeterL arrived. Peter was there, not for Packard purposes, although there was an element of that as well. The Packard part? In returning home after the funeral last week Peter noticed engine temp on his '38 Eight was up from "normal". Conducted a test the next day and found the radiator shutters were only partially opening. Need a new shutter thermostat and who should have one "on the shelf", Wade! Peter was there primarily because he was picking up a Mazda RX7 engine and trans in a deal brokered by John. Peter is in the midst of getting a Mazda RX4 back on the road and was going to rebuild its current engine. But this deal came up for a recently rebuilt engine, a deal too good to pass up. As part of the deal he also picked up an RX7 5 speed trans. Plus John was able to guide and advise Peter on what he needed to do to put the RX7 engine and trans in the RX4 because of his vast background and experience with Mazda Rotaries. Peter was able to stay on after the engine and trans were loaded in his trailer, joining us for lunch at the Eastwood Rugby Club.

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Monday 3rd October 2011

Public holiday here today so no Packard workshop activity. But, while at my desk this morning, noticed the plaque pictured below. It was amongst the "junk" in a pocket change dish I keep on the desk, which has become a receptacle for all sorts of stuff when pockets are emptied out at days end. The plaque came out of the glovebox of my '41 Coupe when it was in the workshop in 2008 and it's obviously been awarded for participation at a car show. But what did Star Mule Days mean? When it came to answering this puzzling question, Google was my friend. Found out what a Mule Day is, and that Star is a town about 20 miles west of Boise Idaho. Made sense, because I bought the Coupe, back in 2007, from a guy in Middleton which is about another 5 miles west of Star. The plaque is too delicate to go on the Badge Bar, so it'll probably go inside the glovebox lid because it has a peel off adhesive pad on it's back for mounting purposes.

Speaking of no workshop activity that'll also be the case tomorrow when we join the OASIS(Old And Seriously Into Speed) Club for their monthly run. The run is to the Australian Aviation Museum at Bankstown Airport. Should be a good day for the boys to look at some big toys followed by a pleasant lunch. This afternoon the Coupe will receive a wash and vacuum together with fluid level checks to prepare it for the run.

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Hi Mal,
And to all, hope you had a wonderful day today - and enjoy your run to Bankstown Airport!

Mal, i see Peter is holding a Radiator thermostat,for the front grill would you know where he got it from? as i would like to buy one for the 120,

Thank you for all your input, And the rest of packard info, I really would'nt know what to do if it was'nt for all you guys out there!!
Bill.

Bill,

Thermostat is from Max Merritt, Part #223131. And as an old Aussie TV ad used to say, "Bring your money with you".

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Good run today with Wade and I having the only Packards amongst the Morris & Mini Minors, an MGB, an Austin Freeway, Austin A40 Devon and others. See my pic's in this Picasa Album.

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Wednesday 5th October 2011

Quote:Fixed that, re-re-installed the left front mudguard(fender) stay on Fleurette, but the right way up this time. Then spent a fair amount of time replacing the pinion seal on Fleurette. Pity all the fresh oil in the diff had to be drained out, but looked on that as a sort of positive of flushing the diff out.

After that moved on to The Fossil and installed the front frame rail covers. Able to do that with confidence now that PackardBarry confirmed positioning of the nut on the underside of the top frame rail. But there's still something of a nagging question to answer, why is that nut shaped like it is? Anyone? Now when I say installed I really meant the right side was installed twice while the left side was installed only once. Something about learning from your mistakes? The first install on the right side went well until I reminded Wade at the end of doing so that he had wanted to install tape over the heads of two groups of rivets on the top of the frame rail. I'd forgotten until that point of time that Wade had wanted to do that. The tape was being installed to prevent squeaks once the covers are installed. So off the cover came, on went the tape and back on went the cover. And although PackardBarry had said ".....Its hard to get to; socket - elbow - extension - ratchet...." Wade found that it was relatively easily accessible from under the frame rail, so wasn't a problem. Then started on installing the new the radiator shell webbing. But struck a minor hiccup, the fasteners to hold the webbing to the radiator shell needed to be cleaned and painted. They are now painted but will have to wait for tomorrow at least until dry to be installed.

During the course of Fleurette's pinion seal replacement Wade received a phone call from Noel. Apparently the R6 OD that went back with Noel to Peter Packard created a little confusion. What had happened was that Wade had received two lots of parts for the OD rebuild. A complete unit from PeterL and a set of internal parts from Peter Packard. Wade used the internals from PeterL's R6 and didn't use any of Peter Packard's parts. And at the end of the job had assembled a complete R6 using PeterL's housing and Peter Packard's internals. All clear now, or as clear as mud?

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Monday 10th October 2011

Backtracking to yesterday, PACA had a run to the Kurrajong Radio Museum. Kurrajong being in the foothills of the Blue Mountains west of Sydney we met at Macca's at McGraths Hill, and 7 Packards convoyed to the Museum from there. At the museum Wade donated a pair of WW2 Army radios about which Ian, the Museums founder, was able to relate the model's history right off the top of his head, most impressive. Following the museum visit we continued on to the Kurrajong Heights pub for lunch. Link to my pic's from the day.

But, before returning to today, learnt that late last week Wade had had dramas with Fleurette because the new pinion seal wasn't sealing. Turned out the dust shield on the pinion yoke was contacting the seal body causing the seal body to rotate in the snout of the pumpkin. Wade cured that by removing the dust shield from the pinion yoke, together with a good application of Loctite on the mounting surfaces of the seal body and pinion snout. One sealing problem fixed but another raised it's ugly head being an oil leak from the trans. So that was todays fix on Fleurette. Put Fleurette up on the hoist and it was evident there was oil coming from somewhere but not from anywhere visible from under the car. So down came Fleurette, not completely because she was going back up later, and the left side aluminium(aluminum) carpet edge/trim was unscrewed, the front seat squab removed and the front carpet slid from under the seat and rolled up under the dash. Then the trans inspection plate was removed and the trans top inspected. Wade had suspected the leak was emanating from the trans top bolt which has a hole through it to provide ventilation for the trans. There certainly was oil there so that bolt, it was the left middle one , was swapped with the right rear bolt, together with a couple of copper washers. The leaked oil was then cleaned up from the trans top, Fleurette raised up on the hoist again and the leaked oil on the side, and bottom of the trans also cleaned up. Fleurette was lowered again, not to floor level, but before re-installing the front interior fittings the engine was started and run up to about 40mph in gear observing the trans top for any signs of leaks. There were none, so Fleurette again went up on the hoist and another undercar inspection for leaks took place. Again, none found. Refitted the carpet, edge trim and seat squab then took Fleurette for a run on the test route then back into the workshop, back on the hoist and no evidence of a trans oil leak. Wades thoughts are that the left side of the trans housing has a oiling channel running below the bolts on that side and in some way the oil is expelled/pumped/forced/syphoned(insert your word of choice) through the hole in the bolt leading to the oil loss. Wade will probably road test Fleurette over the next few days seeing Noel is at Mudgee with TonyW who is working on Noel's body. What? No, not Noel's body, the body of Noel's '41 160 Coupe!

With Fleurette done, time to turn to The Fossil. Last week Wade had threaded the wiring harness through the enlarged hole in the body bracing so that's another small step accomplished. Also, when we left Wade last time, installing the radiator shell webbing had started, with the webbing's wire centre affixed at the top of the shell, and it had then stopped but today saw it's continuance. The little hooked bolts, that grab the wire centre of the webbing were ready for fitting which entailed piercing a hole through the webbing adjacent to the centre wire and the hook bolts inserted. Near the top of the radiator shell there is a U shaped indentation which accommodates the hook bolt. Takes a bit of muscle to get the webbing sufficiently into the U so that a washer and nut can be affixed in the confines between the radiator top tank and the radiator shell. But first have to shape the centre wire to the U shape required Got there! Next was affixing the bottom end of the wire to the bottom edge of the radiator shell. Had to trim about 1/4" off the bottom of the webbing then the wire was bent under the lower edge of the radiator shell, then trimmed about 1" off the wire and it was bent to firmly hook the webbing to the radiator shell. Next was another hook bolt about two thirds of the way down the side of the radiator shell. Retention of this hook bolt is different from the upper bolt in that the upper bolt just has a nut and washer while this has a formed rubber washer and a flat washer which fit the inside contours of the radiator shell. Except it didn't seat in the contours properly, maybe the pieces from the original Fossil are slightly different from the replacement Fossil? Required a little judicious trimming to get the fit required along with some muscle again to get the wire to deform sufficiently. With the left side done turned to the right side. Did the trimming of the formed rubber washer prior to starting which combined with not having to trim the webbing length made for an easier job. Still required some muscle to form the webbing centre wire and to fit the hook bolts.

Radiator webbing done, what next? Wade was concerned the radiator and radiator shell weren't vertical. That was certainly the case with a much smaller gap between the fan blades at the bottom of the radiator than those at the top. Should be easy to fix, right? Just shorten the firewall to radiator stays so that the top of the radiator structure is pulled back towards the firewall, right? The radiator top certainly went back, a little at a time, when the outside nuts on the stays were loosened and some Mal muscle applied. To complement the outside nuts being loosened the inside nuts, those under the cowl at the back of the firewall, were likewise tightened. But were we doing it right? A series of measurements confirmed that side to side and top and bottom the distances between firewall and radiator shell were equal. But were they right? Used the left upper bonnet(hood) panel as a check. This showed that the gaps between the panel and the body and the panel and the radiator shell weren't right. Instead of a consistent gap along either edge, each edge had a tapered gap. Easiest way I can describe it is like a "slight" parrallelogram inside a rectangle. Given that, how to fix it? First blush seems to indicate that the radiator shell besides not being perpendicular is also slightly twisted, not being square to the centreline of the car. Solution? Unbolt radiator mounting bolts and pivot radiator and radiator shell structure slightly at the same time removing a mounting shim from each side as the radiator shell structure seems to be sitting slightly too high to. Put The Fossil up on stands to give some room to get underneath her but then struck a snag. Because the cooling system is full tried to drain the radiator using the little cock in the lower outlet except it wouldn't undo. It has a brass handle to release the cock and let the water flow but it wouldn't release. Wade assured me he'd tested the cock thoroughly before he mounted it and it worked easily and perfectly. Looks like time, water and who knows what is conspiring against him. With the day slipping away, left it at that and will return tomorrow fresh and ready to do battle anew.

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Tuesday 11th October 2011

Wade had taken Fleurette home overnight and there she was sitting in the carpark when I arrived. All looked promising as far as oil leaks were concerned with no obvious puddles after being parked at Wade's overnight. But to better check things out, once again Fleurette went up on the hoist. And check out she did. Trans good. Engine OK after sump bolts were tightened, the front and rear oil seal leaks although minor are major to fix properly so will be monitored and tolerated for now. The pinion seal was pristine clean but....seeing there was no excess oil under the car it was apparent there was oil seeping from the pumpkin to diff housing joint. All the pumpkin bolts were tightened, the area cleaned, and no doubt Fleurette will be up in the air again tomorrow showing off her bottom!

Once Fleurette was back on the shop floor Wade had a job for me to do on her, re-install the front seat squab because it had been skating around on the trip home and back. The squab fitment has been a problem for Noel previously and it also proved so today. And in trying to get it in today we actually ended up taking it out! On the bench, upside down, it was apparent that the right side "clip" had been moved from it's stock position. But left that as is(sorry, forgot to take a pic) and with some brute force the squab returned to where it should be.

Another pet peeve of Wade's, besides leaks, is rattles and Fleurette has many to contend with. However there were two in the same area which Wade was determined to address, those emanating from the horn button and horn ring. They annoyed Wade so much that at stages on the trips home and back Wade was gently holding the horn button to prevent it rattling. After getting the horn button and ring off the steering wheel hub the cause of one of the rattles was readily apparent, a very ineffective spring under the horn button. The spring looks like it was hand wound from very thin wire and has lost whatever tension it did have earlier in it's life. Wade again turned to his magic shelf but no horn spring, instead the next best thing a '34 door handle spring, looks very similar to the real thing! And it worked. The other rattle, after careful observation of the horn button, horn ring and steering wheel hub, was the spokes of the horn ring contacting the hub. A judiciously placed piece of tape on the hub, for each of the three spokes, and another rattle silenced. Noel, although it won't be as quiet as your old Roller, I'm sure you'll notice the difference.

Then it was time for The Fossil to receive some attention, back on 30th September I wrote, Quote:So, instead of returning to where we left off yesterday, we returned to where we'd left off a week and a half ago.

Started on the left window by cutting about 1/4" off the front end of the top bailey channel the window glass winds into. The packing and rebending processes meant the channel was now too long. Wade used a fine cutting disc on his angle grinder and, after draping The Fossil in more old sheets to protect the paint from little hot metal mini meteorites, the cut was made. So quickly so, because I had my eyes shut(my form of eye protection in this instance), that I could hardly believe it was already done. Then the trimming and insertion of packing, redrilling of screw holes and refitting the bailey channel. Done, but Wade wasn't happy. Could still see the edge at the bottom of the glass, just, but it was the ragged edge from the sealant used that was bugging him. Because Wade would never be able to sleep peacefully again if he didn't "do something", Wade did something. He pulled the window out to trim up the offending ragged edges. Only this meant the outside door handle came off, the door lock mechanism came off, the wooden frame that encompasses the mounting of the door lock mechanism, the window handle and the quarter window mechanism came off. Then finally the quarter window frame was undone, the door window manipulated out and the quarter window frame temporarily re-installed. Door window on the bench the offending ragged edges are now ragged no more. Then back it all went into The Fossil. Left side done, now for the right side. This time disassembled everything first and gave the offending ragged edges the haircut needed, then reassembled everything into the door. Followed that with the packing and refixing of the bailey channel.

And Wade is phoning John, Appin, tonight to arrange for John's '40 110 4 Door Touring Sedan to come in for it's broken universal, trans, OD or diff, one of these, all of these or some combination thereof to receive attention.

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Sam Irwin - Tall Tales but True! (chapter II)

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Mal, try to connect Sam and Matt who is looking for a RHD steering box. To quote him:
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BTW Due to excessive demand the Picasa link in post #872 has conked out.

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Quote:Gerd,

Matt is probably looking for a RHD steering box with a faster ratio than one off a Packard can offer, to help the Biposto in it's time on the track. Besides, although I had already planted a seed with Sam for another Packard part that Matt desires the response was underwhelming. I think Sam wants to hold onto all parts of his "parts car".

Concerning the link in post #872, the response from Sam when he saw the album was that it was nice but he didn't want to share his backyard with the world. Therefore I have limited the visibility of the album in accordance with Sam's wishes.