Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Packard recommended using Trico oil to periodically lubricate the internals of the wiper motor wiper and I haven't located any of that and not sure if it is still available. What other type of lubrication is being used currently to do this.I was thinking about using airtool oil.

Don't know if it's (the Trico oil) still around or not, I've been using Mobil Vacuum motor oil for a good many years with excellent results. I got it from MSC in Harrisburg (one quart will do every car within 500 miles) and no doubt many of the other commercial industrial supply houses carry it. No experience using air tool oil but it's an interesting thought.

Owen Thanks, Question, which connection on the wiper motor do I use? Is it the 18th connection at the front of the motor from the wiper switch or at the 1/8 x 1/4x1/4" Y fitting from the vacumn pump and intake vacumn to the control switch valve.
I'll look again for some vacumn motor oil, if not I think I will try the airtool oil and see what happens.

HH56 previously provided some insight in this post:

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... orum=3&post_id=11583#forumpost11583

...containing an article excerpted from the October 1, 1949 edition of the Packard Service Counselor (Vol. 23, No 10, p. 52), which may help.

I've since added a topic on lubricating the windshield wiper motors to the Service Index for both 1951-54 and 1955-56, referencing that very article.

Meanwhile, I'd make the connection you're talking about directly to the motor.

On all motors lube would be introduced per the main vacuum connection on the top of motor. That small 1/8 connection in front on 55-6 motors only operates a mechanism in that protruding section which covers/uncovers a port so the wiper sweep changes.

Thanks everyone for the info it is a great help.
I finally got the wipers to move but, very slowly and they will not park. I replaced the vacumn hoses from the tubimg conn's to the vac pump and the manifold to the balancing valve and balncing valve to wiper motor at the tee (the Y had been replaced with a tee) conn. I did not replace the two 1/8" lines from the switch/control knob to the motor as they are soft and not split or hard at the ends. But, I have decided to replace them anyway although I am pretty sure that is not the problem. I checked the vac from the pump and it read a very steady 25" on the vac gauge,and the manifold vac read 23" on the va gaugewith a very slight quivering of the needle of a 1/4" or so. There is plenty of vac. and since both arms move freely it would seem to be a motor issue.
I think I will pull the motor off, disassemble and do a check for visible damage and gummed up internals.

Replace it with a '55-'57 Chevy car electric motor and be done with it. All you have to do is add a wire from a key-on power source and use the original knob and cable to control it. Then you'll actually have wipers that work.

Good advice! My '56 Patrician has this electric wiper motor conversion and, provided the slider switch on the wiper motor is lubricated every so often, it all works fine.
Cheers, John Payne

I pulled the wiper motor tonight but will disassemble tomorrow for a look see. I prefer to stay original, if possible but will change to electrical motor if need be.
Question, what kind of tool do I need to remove the knob off the wiper switch and is there any nuts or clips behind the dash I need to remove to get the switch out.. I removed the vac hoses and it is a nightmare trying to get tham back on, plus I want to remove it and check it on the bench with the motor.

Rotate the knob and you will find a small notch or slot at the shaft end. Use a small screwdriver and push into the notch against a piece of spring steel. It will push in slightly moving the lock away from groove in shaft. While holding the screwdriver in, pull the knob out and off shaft.

Once the knob is off, pull out the washer, spring and sweep lever. You will see the nut holding all in dash. The switch detail is shown and there is nothing behind the dash to worry about except the electrical washer connection which just pushes onto the end of switch. Unless there is other wiring or hoses caught on something else preventing it from moving away, it should be free.

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