Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Thank you, Howard. I'll check it out.

Well, I got the shifter working again, and I'm now going to tackle the intermittent overdrive issues I've been having.

I'm guessing it's an electrical problem, more specifically the wiring, or one of the old switches. I had bypassed the reverse cutout switch, and after looking at the schematic for the umpteenth time I'm guessing it's either the kickdown switch, the adjacent wiring, or the connectors in the path to the solenoid and governor. When it works, it shifts perfectly, and then all of a sudden, after touching something under the hood, I'll go for a drive and the OD is not there. No green light, no shift.

This time the thing I worked on prior to the OD malfunction (apologies to Ozstatman) was the installation of a mechanical stop light switch on the firewall next to where the brake pedal comes through. I used a NAPA Echlin SL132, and it works perfectly and was a very simple install. I feel much safer now that my brake lights come on much earlier in the pedal travel.

I'm now going to poke around underneath, on substantial jack stands of course, and see what I can discover. Then I'll probably pull the kickdown and the reverse switches, and rebuild them. Wish me luck.

Since it's intermittent with no green light, might look at the regular lockout switch on knob and the loom carefully. As you mentioned, some early cars had a two piece OD loom joined together by 6 black connectors under the car. Even when fairly new Packard called those connectors out for corrosion and causing problems. Suggested if any intermittent problems occurred, dealers remove them and solder the wires together. Later looms were one piece. The lockout switch plunger can wear on the end barely closing the switch and then intermittent vibration can make switch open.

If that is not the issue, with no green light then governor contacts could be worn and acting up as could the relay contacts. Pull-in coil contacts in the solenoid are a service item but you would have the light if they failed -- just no OD. There has also been mention of issues with one of the small screws holding the governor cover corroding or loosening. The screw is connected to a metal tab on the cover so also provides the ground to the governor contact. If it has problems it causes intermittent grounding. No ground, no green light, no OD.

the installation of a mechanical stop light switch on the firewall next to where the brake pedal comes through. I used a NAPA Echlin SL132, and it works perfectly and was a very simple install.

IIRC correctly Echlin SL132 is a hydraulic brake light switch, not a mechanical switch. Is my memory failing again?

Quote:
I went to NAPA armed with information from an earlier post on this subject. I had read that I needed a SL134, and when they pulled up the image, it was of a switch that was obviously hydraulic. We poked around little, and came up with the SL132. Spring loaded, closed in the resting position. Ordered it, installed it, and that's what it is. SL132. Works great!

That's my story...

It's interesting to look back at my blog and see where I left off over two years ago. I haven't had the time or money to work on the 48 at all; in fact, it got so bad that the battery I bought in 2013 bit the dust, and I had to pony up for a new one. They say that "if you don't use it, you lose it," and I know that is true. So this time, I purchased a six volt Battery Tender to go with it. Just have to keep it topped up with water now.

I enjoy driving this car, but the single reason I got away from it was the overheating. A tiny leak appeared in the bottom tank of the radiator, and I don't think the shop I took it to for cleaning did anything but make that leak appear. They supposedly cleaned the radiator, but I'm sure all the did was hit it with a pressure washer. It must not be flowing optimally, and probably needs to have the tanks removed and the core rodded out. I don't look forward to removing it again and paying for that! Unfortunately, I can't enjoy driving it when it reaches operating temperature and continues climbing.

The other factor that I didn't mention is the trunk damage that occurred when I was pulling my F150 up behind it onto ramps to change the oil, and the ramps slid and placed the truck bumper square into the Packard trunk handle. It saddened me to have damaged a heretofore pristeen body part. I can fix it, but it won't be easy, and will never be the same.

G'day Joey,

Sorry to hear about the battery, the trunk and the radiator problems. Was going to go to Hershey this year and maybe drop in to see you afterwards but other matters prevented that, maybe next year?

Absolutely, Mal. Hope to see you then.

Joeyearl,
Just found your blog tonight and read it all, had my dinner in front of the computer, couldn't stop reading. We have had similar problems. Electrical being one of them. Mine included having the rear end rebuilt, which we couldn't hear because of the worn out u joints.

Sorry to hear about your mishap with F 150. Don't know the extent of the damage to the trunk lid, but PackardUSA on Ebay as a trunk lid for $25 plus shipping. Just need your old hinges. There are handles, locks and chrome pieces all over, I think I would try Mike Borth, borthautoparts.com he has some good stuff and it nice to deal with.

Good luck and keep us posted.
Barry

Here's Eloise with her WSW

Attach file:

---

  (28.82 KB)

Thanks, Barry. I'll look into that.
Beautiful car!