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Finally, I'll be able to really drive the 48. Just had the radiator re-cored. When I first got the car, I paid a shop $100 to clean and test the radiator. After replacing the water pump, flushing the block, new freeze plugs, removing and cleaning the distribution tube, it still would overheat. Could it be the radiator? No, I had that done.

Two years later, unable to drive more than a few blocks without boiling over, I decided to yank it out and take it to a different radiator shop. Sure enough, it was so clogged that the guy testing it said he thought he forgot to turn on the water. It was flowing about 5 percent.

Now, $579 later, I have a new core. Should solve my overheating issue. I'll let you know after installing it in a day or so. I can't wait!

Having trouble posting photo from iPhone. Hmmmm...

If a raw image directly out of the phone, might be the size is too large. Also, if you are using the default file name not sure on the iPhone but on some images my iMac adds punctuation characters in the file name that the site does not like.

I used to do it all the time. I click Choose Flie, and I see the small thumbnail with "1Photo" next to it, so I click Attach File, and it's no longer there. Tried with a smaller file size. There must be something I used to do, but forgot what.

Are your images out of the phone jpeg? Again, not sure on iPhone but most macs have gone to png as the default image format and don't believe the site likes those.

That might be it. I'll see if I can convert one and test.

I'm going to throw this question out there. Now that I'm able to drive the 48 for more than two miles, I seem to be having a problem starting. I've kept the new battery I bought about six months ago on a 6v Battery Tender Junior, and it at times, doesn't have the juice to get me going again after driving and stopping for a few minutes. The battery shows 6.25v, and will start the car when cold.

I did discover the water in the battery low, one time since I bought it and had it on the Tender, apparently it had evaporated during the hot summer months of sitting in my shop. Do you think I killed a cell by letting the water get low? I tested it with a specific gravity tester,and it read around 1.260, which was in the bottom end of the good range.

The starter tested fine when I bought the car, an I have all new correct size cables.

It is possible one of the cells sulfated but I'd do a couple of checks before condemning it. Other than the specific gravity there is no way to check each cell individually unless it is one of the batteries where the cells are connected with external jumpers. If the specific gravity is low on all then I would make sure the cells are filled and then do a good charge and check again. Sometimes the tenders just don't have enough current output to charge a battery properly. I think the tender juniors may be one that has issues with that large battery as it never seemed to turn off on mine. 6.25 sounds OK but it might just be a surface charge and any real current requirements will make the voltage go away.

If the cables and posts haven't been cleaned recently I would do that again as a first thing to rule out any oxidation that has built up between the two. There could be some resistance at the terminals. Then use a voltage meter across the two battery terminals and see how much drop at the battery when the headlights are turned on. If the voltage holds fairly close then do the same test with headlights off and when the starter is cranking.

I don't have the lights connected so can't do that one but on my 356 engine the battery reads 6.28v just sitting. When I crank the engine it drops and fluctuates at around 5v +/- 1/10v. If yours holds in that voltage range the battery is probably OK. If it drops much with the headlight test or any below 4.5v with the starter I would make sure battery is fully charged and then redo the test. If it still drops then the battery is suspect.

It is possible there is another connection that is causing problems. If the voltage at the coil drops much below 4.5v then the spark becomes marginal. Possibly a ground connection or one of the connections between the battery and coil is causing issues. The engine being hot usually places a strain on everything so the electrical needs to be in top notch condition on a 6v car.

Thanks, Howard. I'm going to try the headlight and starting load test. If that fails, I'll take the battery out, or drive the car to NAPA and let them test it.

Battery tested ok at NAPA. I think I'll check my connections and see what the voltage drop is at the starter. I'm beginning to think it may also be related to fuel percolation when hot requiring more cranking.

Going to try another photo post of the radiator.