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Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
#21
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BH
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Now, there's a bit more to the manual control switch than meets the eye. It's more than a mere single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) switch for an electric antenna. (See Image 6492143, below.)

Although it has three pairs of terminals, do NOT confuse this three-way switch with a double-pole, double-throw (DPDT) switch. Rather, this switch uses a sliding contact to complete a circuit between one of the three pairs of opposing terminals, which involve three completely separate circuits.

The center set of terminals will be wired in series with the factory-installed under-dash cut-off switch ? a circuit which supplies power for the compensator control box. With the manual control switch in the center position and the under-dash compensator cut-off switch turned ON, the compensator control box functions automatically. When you move this control switch off of the center position, for manual operation, the compensator control box is effectively deactivated. As such, when you return the switch to the center position, the compensator will kick in UNLESS you have previously turned the compensator cut-off switch OFF. (This caveat is essential if you make Randy Berger's spring-loaded, center-return modification to this switch.)

Next, notice that only four of the six contacts have screw terminals. Two of the lugs on the switch run under crimps that hold the case to the terminal board and will be grounded. The opposing screw terminals will be wired in parallel with the compensator control box. Thus, moving the manual control switch off the center position will complete one of two circuits to ground ? doing exactly what the compensator control box would in its automatic mode. That ground path energizes a solenoid, which completes one of two field circuits and spins the compensator motor, but with the limit switches still wired in series to break the circuit to the solenoid, turn off the motor, and prevent over-travel of the leveling system. So, make sure your limit switches are in proper working order. In case of emergency, it also helps to have a battery ground cut-off switch installed.

Once you understand how this switch does the job, as Packard engineers intended, you may be able to make a substitution and wire up an equally safe and effective alternate solution yourself.

Attach file:



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Posted on: 2008/8/10 21:39
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Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
#22
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John Payne
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G'day Randy,

Sorry, I've confused the issue. The "up" and "down" terminals are actually the words that are marked on the aerial switch. The "new" yellow and pink wires definitely go into the terminals in the compensator control box as advised by the factory. The original pink and yellow wires were then spliced into the new wires. So I shouldn't have any worries about bypassing the limit switches, although I've since been told the system travels quite a fair way before reaching them, maybe raising or lowering the front by 4" and the rear by even more. I haven't tried this so hope the limit switches still work OK.

I don't think I've mentioned this before, but when Cole-Hersee was mentioned as the manufacturer of the factory switch, I contacted them to see if they still made them, or something similar (they don't), and was also told that about 20 years ago a lot of car clubs were contacted to see if they were interested in old parts stock and, as none was received, the parts were all junked. Pity!

I still haven't given-up on acquiring a correct type switch particularly if, as BH mentions, reasonably priced ones can be found. The momentary modification you made to yours? It sounds like you have spring-loaded the switch so it will return to center automatically. If so, like BH said, you would have to switch the on/off switch to off to keep the suspension at the height you wanted. Is this what you did and what did you use to make it all happen?

Cheers, John

Posted on: 2008/8/10 23:37
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Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
#23
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Randy Berger
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John, glad you have the wiring correct. I would hate to give incomplete advice and have someone ruin their T/L system because I was not completely thorough.
I disassembled the switch and found two "bumps" stamped onto the bottom of the movable part of the switch. These bumps would engage indentations in the switch body thereby providing the three "stops". I removed this part of the switch and carefully peened those bumps flat so they would no longer engage the indentations. I put small coil springs on each end of the shaft so that it would center itself when not held in position. I did this because I didn't like the way the switch felt when operating it. The stops were very noticeable and a couple of times when pulling the switch back to center I overshot and would wind up running the T/L motor the other way very quickly. I didn't like the feel of the switch so modified it to my own taste. If you raise or lower the car via the switch you have about 6-7 seconds to remember to turn off the auto switch before the T/L engages automatically.
The rear end will travel 10 inches from full bottom to full top. Before you do that make sure your rear shocks can handle that much travel. That is the biggest problem finding rear shocks as most won't have near enough travel.
It is a nice feature to wow the crowd at the car cruise.

Posted on: 2008/8/11 0:09
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Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
#24
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Ozstatman
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Quote:

randy berger wrote:...........The rear end will travel 10 inches from full bottom to full top..........It is a nice feature to wow the crowd at the car cruise.


Randy,

Seems there's a bit of low-rider blood running through your veins Senor.

Posted on: 2008/8/11 1:43
Mal
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====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

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Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
#25
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Randy Berger
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Nah, I just measured the full travel one time. I like to see "Best Other" sitting level. I do like Senoritas, however.

Posted on: 2008/8/11 8:00
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Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
#26
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HH56
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Someone thought it would be nice to have a schematic so here is one with manual switch added and shown on the 56 diagram. The original 55 schematic is thrown in also for those who would like to compare changes or figure out how to add switch in.

Some 55's that needed control switch replaced had the 56 version and a short replacement cable with the 56 color changes spliced to their 55 loom. Original 55's just had the screw terminals.

Attach file:



jpg  (43.67 KB)
209_48a0546e957cf.jpg 635X800 px

Posted on: 2008/8/11 9:02
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Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
#27
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John Payne
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Hi BH,

I haven't heard of Bob Berg and was wondering is he someone who is still in the switch game and if so, are his contact details available?

Cheers, john

Posted on: 2008/8/13 1:25
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Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
#28
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John Payne
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G'day Brian,

I haven't heard of Bob Berg and was wondering if he was still in the switch game and if so, are his contact details available.

Cheers, John

Posted on: 2008/8/13 1:28
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Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
#29
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BH
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John -

Bob Berg is a private collector who has repro'd several interesting things for the V8 Packards over the years - including the front load arm holding tool for TL cars. In fact, a year or so ago, member Kip56 persuaded Bob to make another run of that tool by soliciting a list of guaranteed buyers from our group.

It's been so long since I purchased those manual control kits that it's hard to say if Bob has any left. Also, keep in mind that, based on other posts in this threaad, the supply of switches could be limited to whatever NOS stock is floating out there. I've heard that NOS switches (alone) were offered by one vendor for $60.

I don't have Bob's contact info with me at work, but will check my files at home and PM you with details this evening.

Posted on: 2008/8/13 6:51
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Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
#30
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Kip56
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Bob Berg is a great guy and was a tremendous help to a bunch of us a couple of years ago by reproducing the J6065 tool.

Brian let me know if you have any trouble finding his contact information as I can dig it up through my records as well. I have not spoken to him since 2006 but he was living in Colorado at the time.

Best Regards,
Robert.

Posted on: 2008/8/13 7:55
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