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« 1 2 (3) 4 5 6 ... 8 »

Re: Torsion Level Problem
#21
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R H
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Jed,

4, bushings per side of axle, 2 0n top 2 on bottom,the rear support arm up on frame takes 2 more each arm.,,,total,,12,,

with a floor jack under rear load arm ,,and jacked up to lift it off pad, you can take off rear support arm.

but i would tie something around the arm for safety...

Posted on: 2012/6/23 13:47
Riki
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Re: Torsion Level Problem
#22
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R H
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Jed,

Check the rear sway bar bushings too,,,might as well replace those too..


also, the ones that are giving the (ride),,,i think you will find are the bushings on the bottom, that the rear shock is mounted to..the upper(s),,don't really cause problems.


if the 56 bushings don't do the trick,,the round ones. i would try the 55 rectangle ones without the cup. they are thicker too.

on the bottom, they changed in 56,, went round all around.

Posted on: 2012/6/23 15:23
Riki
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Re: Torsion Level Problem
#23
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Randy Berger
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Here are pcs in my Caribbean blog of replacing rubber on rear load arms for TL system.
Scroll down
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=205&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=300

Posted on: 2012/6/23 21:13
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Re: Torsion Level Problem
#24
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R H
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Thanks, Randy,

so it is ok, to support load arm,,without chaining it up..

thanks,,,

Posted on: 2012/6/24 0:00
Riki
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Re: Torsion Level Problem
#25
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Jed Sheehan
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Thanks guys! And Randy the pictures help alot. I'm sure the guys at the shop can handle this project now. It seems pretty straight forward once you get into the details. Thanks!

Posted on: 2012/6/24 8:44
Jed
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Re: Torsion Level Problem
#26
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Jed Sheehan
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OK, here's an update on my T-L problem. The shop changed the bushings as discussed earlier and the ride is improved but I'm still experiencing the see-sawing of the T-L system. Every couple of miles the system will go nose down to the limit and then nose up to the limit. After two or three gyrations it will finally level out, only to do it again in a couple of miles.

We've changed just about every part of the system (convertor, control box, bushings, limit switches) all to no avail. About the only things we haven't changed are the solenoids. Any chance they could be the problem? Could I have gotten a bad limit switch? Anyone have any ideas?

Posted on: 2012/7/24 15:59
Jed
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Re: Torsion Level Problem
#27
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Let the ride decide
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When you changed the "a" arm bushing, did you rock the car back and forth, so the the rubber is not pre-loaded?

http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/STB/55T-1.pdf

Posted on: 2012/7/24 16:16
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Re: Torsion Level Problem
#28
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Jed Sheehan
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I'll check with the shop tomorrow. The front bushings were changed a few years back when I had the front suspension re-built. No problems until recently.

Posted on: 2012/7/24 16:23
Jed
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Re: Torsion Level Problem
#29
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HH56
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Doubtful it is solenoids because when they fail, it usually isn't intermittent. Usually they don't work at all or once shorted, a bad one typically keeps the motor energized until it rotates all the way around and binds the transverse link so the fuse goes. Randy did have one fail but IIRC, the symptom was the car was sitting, did a minor correction but just kept going. I suppose it is possible that rust or corrosion might be inside and causing strange things to happen.

Also doubt limit switches since it does stop at either extreme. A bad one typically wouldn't stop the motor at the limit or wouldn't let it move at all. The control switch is sensing because finding the car in a wrong position, it does reverse to correct.

Have you examined the wiring carefully for any areas which might have worn insulation and is intermittently grounding.

Can you stop it in mid see-saw cycle by turning off the dash switch or pressing brake? Is the new control switch the original style or a new solid state replacement?

Posted on: 2012/7/24 16:36
Howard
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Re: Torsion Level Problem
#30
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Jed Sheehan
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Howard,

We have looked at the wiring pretty closely. The limit switches were in bad shape which is why we replaced them. The control box is a new solid state unit which we just received from Packards International. The T-L system was doing the same thing with old original unit.

The car had a new front wiring harness installed about 8 years ago so most of the wiring is in good shape. The car also has the brake light switch replacement unit from PI which has been on the car for about 10 years.

I haven't tried to turn off the under dash switch while it's see-sawing on the interstate, but do turn off the unit when I'm cleaning or changing a tire in my driveway. The under dash switch seems to work fine.

Jed

Posted on: 2012/7/24 16:47
Jed
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