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I dont believe the fuel line would work in my application. I am running a ford Y block fuel pump that has an integrated vacuum pump to run the wipers since I did the Olds oil pump conversion

When it comes to the brake hoses and cylinders:

Right rear: WC9026 - 84-87 Dodge Ram Chager right rear

Left Rear: WC9025 - 84-87 Dodge Ram Charger left rear

Left Front: WC18290 - 50-56 Ford Country Squire Left front

Right Fron: WC18291 - 50-56 Ford Country SQUIRE Right front

I used the same brake hoses front and rear. I believe one of them should be shorter than the other, but the lengths and fitting ends seem to work okay:

Brake hose: BH11146 - 72-73 Jeep Wagoneer front

I was able to button up a couple things this past weekend:

I was able to install the front wheel seals and set the preload on the front bearings. I Got the harmonic balancer installed again, I just need to paint the a/c pulleys before all that gets torqued down. I got the fuel fittings selected to plump up the thunderbird fuel pump, I got the crankcase ventilation tube installed, oil sending unit installed and wired up. Got the temp sending unit wired up. I got the carb installed and the linkage attached. I got the rear parking brake cable installed and only the front one on partially. I didnt have the adjustment mount that connects the cable to the equalizer lever, I was able to source that from Max Merrit.

Quote:

Ross,

Do I need to insulate either of the screws once I drill out the rivets on the overdrive relay? Or is everything okay to just replace with screws and I am good to go?

I have been slowly picking away at a couple things over the past month. I dove into the starter and was able to get that rebuilt with new brushes and bushing. I hope to be painting that soon.

I tore into the generator. The bearing and bushings seemed okay, plus I wasnt able to get the pulley off. Is there a trick to getting the nut off for that? But that receiving new brushes and should be painted soon.

I also took Ross's suggestion and used screws to repair the o/d relay. They are 4-40. I see how the connections work and as long as you keep the fiber board and insulators in their appropriate areas it should be okay to use

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This past weekend I took some time off, as did my brother and family friend and we got the car about 95% sanded!! it looks terrible but needed to get it ready for paint. Lacquer is a pain to remove. We wore respirators, had a portable a/c unit and an air scrubber. After a day and a half of straight sanding all that is left is the rear passenger door, Passenger B pillar, rear valance, right below the rear glass, some of the door jams and some touch up areas on complex curves

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Wow, that is quite the job. I didn't realize you were taking it down to bare metal....when I first read the post I assumed that you were just sanding the lacquer to clean and roughen it prior to a sealer coat.

Congrats on getting a major pain dealt with!

-Kevin

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Thanks! I was talking to a body man and according to him since I am using a base clear coat type of paint I needed to get all the original paint off. His reasoning was that lacquer is a soft paint and the base clear coat is very hard.

I have been scratching my head as what to do with the kick down switch for the overdrive. The fiber backing was split and didnt want that to cause any issues with that system not engaging. I tried a couple things but was never happy with what I ultimately came up with, so I designed something in SolidWorks and 3D printed it. The screws are 6-32 that had the OD of the head trimmed to a similar diameter of the rivets that were initially used. I just nut and bolted them to the "L" bracket connectors.

I was able to get a little of time on the car otherwise. I installed the starter and generator, adjusted the rear brakes and parking brake, installed the OD relay, kickdown switch, horn relay, voltage regulator, and the front light junction blocks.

I attempted to install the A/C crank pulley. The damper was already installed and torqued down to what the FSM says, so I can only assume that piece was on as far as it goes. But for what ever reason when the A/C pulley is installed it was not contacting the front of the crank shaft, which when it comes to a bolted joint torqued to 150 ft-lbs thats a problem. I feel at that torque I run the issue of damaging the expensive and rare A/C pulley. So the only way around this I was able to think of is machine a washer with the OD of the crank (so it fits inside the damper), the ID machined to the diameter of the crank bolt with the appropriate thickness so that the back of the A/C pulley butts up to more than just air. Because according to the FSM these pulleys should just be bumped off once that bolt is removed. After torquing the bolt to 60 ft-lbs I needed a puller to ease the a/c pulley out of the damper.

If I can get that pulley on, the radiator fan and belts can go on. Adding fluids then the car should be able to be fired!

I was looking at these old carter fuel filters at the carb. Is there anything that should secure that sintered filter up to the gasket inside the glass bowl? how do you clean those filters?

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Good solution on the switch but for others that might need one and don't have the printing ability the Cole-Hersee universal replacement available from Napa and others will work just fine. All terminals are used on the R11 ODs and just the two bottom ones next to the plunger on the R9. Granted the look is not quite the same as factory but function over form in this case.

For the AC pulley, the vibration damper is more or less bottomed. There were different type of AC pulleys both factory and aftermarket. On the single groove aftermarket types, as long as the pulley fits in the damper so the driving detents are over the bosses in the damper or PS pulley and belt groove is in the proper place you can get a spacer or washers to support the bottom and a longer bolt to attach it.

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