Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Thanks Mal, post edited!

How many could you use and also have the bolts as well. As I said,if you are going to the Packard club National meet at Reading,PA. I could take them there for you or maybe a friend could pick the nuts and splash shield up for you. Or I could post them for you.

Gary Kulp

Gary, thanks! E-mail sent.

Ok, oil pump is in, valves adjusted, valve covers on. Bottom end is all assembled, but I will replace the two CR nuts on the #1 cylinder with castellated nuts once I get back from Reading next weekend. There are conventional nuts there now. I attempted to use a nut splitter to get the old nut off, but couldn't get a good angle. After denting the nut with the splitting tool a few times in my unsuccessful attempt to use it and a few good whacks with a cold chisel, I was able to unscrew the nut, in spite of the damaged threads. New stud, and conventional nuts for the moment. Also put in the wooden blocks on the rear main bearing cap.

- Putting in those blocks is a PITA. Any pro tips I should know for next time? I ended up filing the backs down, then driving in with a hammer using the block to peel it down to fit. One of the two broke, so I used the old wooden block on that side. Both blocks coated with gasket paste (I am using Permatex Aviation gasket sealer).

- The valves I set at 0.009 intake and 0.012 exhaust with the cyliner at TDC. The book calls for 0.007 intake, 0.010 exhaust with the engine warm and idling. Any experience with setting the valves cold? Did I do it right? I couldn't find anywhere on the forum or in my old Chiltons that actually tells you how to adjust valves!

I also pulled the timing cover back off and re-installed it. Long sad story why: after I installed the timing chain and bent over the lock tab, I was using a crescent wrench on the cam nut to turn the cam and crank clockwise. After I installed the second piston, the nut actually spun (tightened) a little bit. I put a harmonic dampener bolt in the crank and started using that to spin the engine. Then, after I put the timing chain cover on, I realized I never went back and adjusted the tab. You'll see what I found- glad I caught it!

Finally, knocked some dents out of the valve covers before I put them on. There were outward dents all along the lower side of one valve cover- not sure what was in the valve gallery that may have come loose in the engines past.

As always, if you see anything wrong, please let me know. This engine project has been going since last September! If you read my blog from a few years ago, it turns out I was a lot more productive before I had kids. Wouldn't change it for the world though.

I will be at Reading for the show on Friday, looking forward to hopefully meeting some of you there!

Attach file:

---

  (101.76 KB)


  (64.25 KB)


  (83.87 KB)


  (65.89 KB)


  (92.85 KB)


  (76.66 KB)


  (71.60 KB)


  (72.97 KB)

Ken, you are probably okay with the way you adjusted the valves for their initial setting. A wider gap to allow for expansion as the engine warms up is good. Personally, I like to adjust the valves when the tappet/cam followers are on the heels of their camshaft lobes rather than when the pistons are at TDC. But, that is just me.

(o{}o)

P.S. Good catch on the camshaft nut lock.

JW, so how do you get the valves on the heel of the tappet? Find full open for the valve and then rotate 1 turn of the crank so you know the cam has rotated 180 degrees?

Good question. That will work since you cannot see the camshaft lobes from the tappet gallery.

(o{}o)

Life is tough- it's tougher when you're stupid.

I was looking at my water distribution tube before installation, and the back was not connected to the tube. I gently worked it back in, though it wasn't very tight, crimped it down a little bit, and thought that I should solder it in. Then - here's were the stupid part is - I decided not to. I worked the tube in most of the way, it hung up with about two inches left, so I pulled it out to adjust, tweak, etc. and... the back wasn't on it anymore! So I have a little brass trapezoid two feet deep into my freshly rebuilt engine's water jacket.

Any brilliant ideas on how to get it out? My first thought was to dangle the engine vertically, but I am not really excited about trying that with a mostly assembled engine. I tried some duct tape on an all-thread rod, but no joy.

It is always something.

Life is just not fair sometimes. How about some JB Weld on the end of a rod and stick it onto the piece. Then, when the cement sets and dries, pull it out? This should not happen. You have had more than your share of troubles, unfortunately. Good luck, and let us know how this all turns out.

(o{}o)

Headed down to the car show at the Packard National in Reading, PA. Hope to brush against a little bit of luck and find some inspiration!

I did figure out how I am going to get out my water tube end:

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-70399-Mechanical/dp/B002RHP7TS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437099354&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=36%22+lighted+reaching+tool

It will be here in a few days, so the engine should be together shortly. Finally.

I also ordered a spray gun - I couldn't find anything locally - and it will be here soon too.