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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
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TxGoat
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Do you meant the front engine mount? I don't understand what the mounting block for the water pump would be.

If the water pump seal is leaking, the coolant will usually drip or seep down the underside of the pump and it might also drip on the engine mount. Tightening the packing may stop a water pump seal leak. Usually, 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the packing nut is enough. The steel plate on the back of the water pump can corrode and develop a leak.

*** It's also possible for coolant to seep out at one or more of the water pump to block bolts. Some of these bolt holes go through to the water jacket. Draining the coolant, removing the bolts one at a time, and blowing out the bolt holes, then putting sealer on the threads may stop the leak. ALSO!!: Some or all of the water pump bolts are supposed to have copper washers on them, not steel washers or lock washers. The copper washers are meant to prevent any possibility of coolant seeping along the bolts and leaking out.

Posted on: 5/6 11:06
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
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37Blanche
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Thanks TX Goat. Sorry for confusion. I am talking about the Motor Mount. (Below the waterpump). I replaced my water pump last year and still have a small leak, that I am suspecting is the motor mount.

Posted on: 5/6 11:46
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
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BDeB
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The front engine mount is part of a steel plate that is bolted to the front of the block and has no connection to the water jacket.
Your leak may be coming from the water pump gasket.

Posted on: 5/6 12:29
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
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TxGoat
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Your pump can leak at the shaft seal, at several of the bolt holes, or if the steel plate on the back of the pump itself is rusted or cavitated, or at either of the two gaskets, one between the pump cover and the pump body, and one between the pump assembly and the engine block. I believe that 4 of the water pump to block bolts require copper washers. To get some of these bolts out, you may need to remove or loosen the fan and pulley. If your pump was in good condition when installed a year ago, my guess is you have a leak at the shaft seal OR at one or more of the bolt heads. Your gaskets could also leak, but that's not likely if care was taken when the pump was installed. If copper washers are not present, that's a very likely source of a slow leak, especially if lockwashers are present under the bolt heads. Of course, hose connections can leak and often do. I've found that old style clamped hose connections often need re-tightened a few days after they are first installed.

Posted on: 5/6 13:58
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
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37Blanche
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Thanks guys. So it look like it is somewhere from the water pump or a hose. Will dive in and see if I can spot.

Posted on: 5/6 15:23
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
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BigKev
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Did you use copper washers on the waterpump? If not it may leak there.

Posted on: 5/6 15:39
-BigKev


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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
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37Blanche
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I am not sure I had my friend do it for me. I was there when he did it. I don’t remember seeing them and think that would have caught my eye. That will be my first check.

Posted on: 5/6 15:59
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
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Don B
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Since you just installed the water pump last year, the first thing I’d check is the if tightening the packing nut a little takes care of the leak. Mine was leaking around the shaft and I repacked it and it took care of that leak (I also have a radiator leak). In your case, likely don’t need to repack the pump, but just tighten the packing nut a bit.

Posted on: 5/6 18:02
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
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37Blanche
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Can I over tighten the packing nut? 1/4 turn at a time and check?

Posted on: 5/7 18:20
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
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BigKev
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You don't want it too tight, as that can cause premature shaft wear.

Posted on: 5/7 19:02
-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog

1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog
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