Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Would be interesting to know if it stops by turning off the switch. In theory that would rule out any kind of a commanded movement and just leave solenoids or the wiring to them.

I have turned off the system while driving and it doesn't do any see-sawing or adjusting at all. I haven't tried turning it off in mid-see-saw but I'll try that tomorrow.

It also doesn't hold level if I turn off the T-L system. After a mile or two it settles down in the rear, even with the new bushings.

Since it happened on two switches, have you or your mechanic verified the attaching clamp on L bar for link between switch and bar is tight.

No, we haven't verifiied that the link is tight or even still there. I'll check that tomorrow.

Was just a thought but doubt there will be a problem. Would think the spring in the switch would prevent operation with a loose clamp -- unless there is something wrong with the spring. I have a switch with a broken spring that vibration activated on it's own but that would not likely be a problem on two switches in a row.

I had this problem on my 55 Patrician, and it turned out to be a broken upper A arm bolt to frame. You could not tell the bolt was broken, by looking at it. I had to drill and tap the threads.

New info on my T-L problem.

I test drove the car yesterday and we noticed something missing. The T-L system seems to be working just as it should electrically. It levels and turns on and turns off just as it should.

What's missing is any resistance whatsoever to hold the car at the level position. This lets the car constantly go unlevel while driving and the T-L system is constantly trying to level the car. However, because there's no resistance, the car will overshoot the level position.

The compensator motor turns off at the level postion but the body continues moving past level in the direction the T-L system was moving it. Then of course 7 seconds later the T-L system tries to level it again in the opposite direction and the car again over shoots level. Thus, I get a see-saw effect.

Tim at the shop took the electric motor off the compensator (an NOS unit) today and found he could turn the worm gear with his fingers. That's how little resistance there is in the system.

In the past I would push down on the rear of the car to activate the T-L system to demonstrate it. I always had to hold the rear down for the 7 seconds. If I let go it would pop back to the level position. Not so anymore. No if I push down and let go, it stays down until the T-L system kick in.

Anyone have any ideas? What normally provides the resistance in the T-L system to hold it at level?

Interesting problem and question.

Since the load arms are supported by needle bearings at both ends, they are supposed to be friction free. That only leaves A arm bushings in front & torque arm and stabilizer link bushings in rear. Shocks on all wheels would provide any other friction or resistance.

Bushings can wear or self destruct but if worn or that loose, would think there would be a clunk every time a bump was met if that were the case.

I'm kind of wondering about the rear shocks -- is there any resistance at all in them?

Howard,

You're thinking along the same lines I am. The shop pulled the shocks today and Tim said they weren't great but weren't terrible either. We've ordered a new set and will install them next week.

Can the shocks really make all the difference in resistance for the system? Is there no other source of resistance? All the bushings have been changed and are tight. If it is the shocks that would be too easy!

The system was designed to minimize friction. The only resistance that holds and returns it to level is the combined tension in the torsion bars - main (long) plus compensator (short) bars.

Shock absorbers, when properly operating, dampen the compression/rebound cycle. While I've run into a problem of binding in shocks/struts on some vehicles, such a condition would seem to run counter to your see-saw problem.

I'm starting to wonder if there's a problem with the planetary gear train in the compensator assembly. Yet, I'd expect some sort of unusual noise - even if only a click or a clunk.

One thing at a time, though.