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So started to fit the vent window rubber. I had to trim the bottom seal as it was too long to fit into the channel. Once all that was together, I realized I needed a division post seal.

Steele lists no division post seal for 36-37 Junior Convertible Coupes.

But it for sure had a seal as there are holes in the channel for the seal tabs. Luckily I had a brand new set of 41 division seals. So checking, the hole spacing for the tabs is the same. I just needed to trim about an inch off the bottom.

After that it fir perfectly.

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Next question. There appears to be the remnants of a rubber or fiber washer or roller on there door mechanism where in engages the lower window channel. What do they look like? Or what were they made of?

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...and another question. I'd imagine there was a clip of some kind that holds the washer transmission arm to the wire motor. Is there also a washer of some type?

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I believe but will not swear to it that the 37 may have fastened the arms on the motor in a similar manner as some of the later models.

Two small pieces of sheet metal with a sort of keyhole but more like an elongated pear shaped hole, wide end of hole just large enough to slip over the stud OD and small end sized to fit in the groove. The item acts both as a clip and hard washer. Both clip pieces were connected together by a small spring so as to have the spring keep tension so the small end of the clips are kept pulled into the grooves.


Here is a photo Packard Newbie took of his 39 clip. There does not look to be much room on the stud for a thick washer but there might be a thin wave washer or felt somewhere on the stud to keep any arm rattles under control. If this clip is correct and Flackmaster or someone else cannot supply the setup you might be able to make something.

Possibly you could use a E clip or circlip, or even a hairpin clip but I would wonder if the groove size is standard for what is available and how hard the circlip or Eshape would be to put on or remove in that confined space. The arms coming so close together could possibly catch and push off a hairpin.

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Yes, for sure, Howard that is the part. I have remnants in the box these parts came in. I just didn't know that it was. But, just one side, and a broken spring. I may be able to fabricate the other side from some thin stock.

Found the part on eBay for $8 with free shipping. Done and done.

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Back on the question from earlier. I've talked to Gary, and he said there were leather washers on those window regulator arms. Are those "hubs" supposed to spin or are they fixed?

I sprayed them with a little PB Blaster in the event they are supposed to spin, but are just rusted at the moment.

From the looks of them I would say the hubs are fixed since there does not appear to be much of a retaining or bearing arrangement.

Looking at your window frame the inner surface of the hub would be well greased and insert thru the two wide access spaces on the frame so the wide end would ride on the inside of the channel. Against the outside of the channel would ride a piece of greased leather. Question would be if the leather is the only thing there or is the leather some kind of assembly somewhat compressible or is something else needed in addition to leather. I think to avoid rattles there would need to be some way to keep some tension on the leather so everything is kept lightly compressed against the frame.

Later models have a different construction but it is the same principle. On those it was a combo of spring loaded rounded washer on one side of the channel and on some models a rounded washer only but on others both a flat and leather washer to ride against the channel on the other side. Everything was held onto the stud by a hairpin clip.

With the solid one piece hub and no clip on yours, unless the leather is just the exact thickness to do the compression I think you could get a thin curved disc spring with a large enough hole to go on first. Have that press against the arm and then have a piece of leather with a small hole in the center large enough for the hub shaft go on next for the outside of the channel. The leather would probably need a slit or maybe an actual slot across the center just the width of the hub end so it could be worked over the hub. If you went with the curved spring not sure how much tension would be needed but doubt very much.

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Thanks for that Howard. I'll have to see what I may already have that is large enough so I can work it over that outside hub diameter. I think I have some soft/foam rubber washers. But I down think those would hold up.

I remember the clip and other parts from my '54.

I see these, which I wonder may work. I may need to enlarge the I.D. a little bit. But I wonder if these may be too thick.

Leather Washers

I suppose the chances of someone having a photo or good description of what Packard used and the layout is out of the question. Kuehl doesn't mention windows at all so unless info comes along a halfway educated guess on something that might work is about it. With the large end on the hub I can almost see Packard having various washers or pieces already stacked in sequence on the hub and then riveting that as an assy to the arm. Of course the only way to do that today would be to drill the hub off the arm, then drill and tap for a screw and washer thru the stem to remount it again. If they actually had a premade stack also a possibility there was leather at the hub end riding against the channel inside too.

Description on the Amazon washer says 1/8 thick and 1" in diameter.

Can't get a good feel on how wide your hub end or channel might be but a concern would be by the time a slit or slot is cut for the hub end would the amount of leather remaining on a 1" washer be sufficient to hold the washer together for very long. Something square at least the width of the channel with the slot on the diagonal might have a bit more strength.

As to thickness needed, also can't get a good feel for how much you have to work with but maybe there is a fairly high density yet somewhat compressible plumbing washer or maybe a felt washer that could be worked over the hub end to rest against the arm. If there is enough room maybe a stack consisting of a piece of leather against the arm, something compressible, and then a final piece of leather which would be the one riding on the channel.