Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Thanks Ken! I fear it will be a while before I'm out driving with the kids. So much to do.

Next on my list is to get the windshield out. The Service Manual says to remove the wiper towers, but doesn't say how to do it. I can't even figure out how to get the wipers off the tower. It also says to leave the trim on the weatherstrip, and remove it after the windshield is off the car. I'm assuming that's not going to work with the weatherstrip being as hard as it is now. How do I go about getting the stainless trim off without damaging it?

-Kevin

Look in the instruments section XIII of the 51-4 service manual for instructions on removing the various wiper components. Be careful when releasing and restoring the tension on the cables. The spring on the tensioners is strong and sometimes the pulley edges are sharp and can give a nasty cut if the tension gets away from you. Use of a rag or good gloves is recommended when working on them. If you do wind up needing to take the pivots all the way off take note or maybe a good photo of how the cables route and ends attach to the center drive. That part is not well covered in any of the illustrations.

The May 53 service counselor has instructions on the square corner type windshield removal. With a good windshield it would be smarter to cut it out and replace the gasket since the old rubber is undoubtedly going to be hard and the flaps may not flex to come off the flange like the book says. More likely would be a section of rubber will break off or be so stiff the glass will cock and crack. Since the windshield is already broken and going to be replaced you can try the factory method since another crack won't make a difference. Steele has new gaskets for that windshield and even if the old one comes out intact it would be a good idea to replace the gasket to avoid leaks or issues getting it to hold the glass when going back in.

I believe that there's a spring in the wiper arm where it attaches to the tower so you can just pull it off by holding with both hands, keeping the end toward from the arm slightly down to take the tension off the spring. It should then pull right off. Careful as some of the bits are sharp so best to wear gloves.

I found out that the wiper arms are basically a "press" fit on the tower assembly. Using a screwdriver as a wedge I carefully slide the arms off.

In the Service Manual there are two different sets of instructions for windshield removal/installation....one for 24th/25th series, and one for 26th series. None for 54th. Reading through them it seems like mine should be more similar to the earlier versions. I don't have the trim screws that the 26th series does.

On a total unrelated note, I was curious about the major driver side lean the Panama had. So I jacked up the front and did a quick look. Turns out the driver's side front shock is completely destroyed. I was already going to replace the shocks anyways, but I thought this was interesting.

Lastly, the soda blaster will be here in a week and a half to do some work. I'm going to have him blast the whole interior roof, especially the rotted areas, and the entire floor of the car including the trunk, That way I and my friend can best fix the rot, and I can be sure the floor is done right. Quoted $350 for the job (including travel), which I guess is fair.

Attach file:

---

  (80.92 KB)


  (92.54 KB)

Doing those areas described does seem fair at $350. Soda blasting does have a number of advantages over sandblasting however, one of them is not superior removal of rust. Not sure the rig the gentleman is coming with but soda blasting generally has a tough time cutting through deeply rusted areas. Hopefully, you described the deep rust you have or took a picture and sent so there isn't a misalignment regarding expected results. You also have some blind spots that probably can't get hit with that header in the way.. may want to cut out the affected areas first or have your welder friend advise what needs cleaned and to what extent.
Mike

Mike - good advice. It is soda blasting, and it seems he's using a 375 CFM compressor. I have no idea if that's good, but looking at the jobs he's done, it seems to do very well. It will be difficult to get into some of the channels on the roof because of the way Packard designed them. After I get the windshield out of the way I'll see if access to the affected area is better. If not, then I may need to cut some of it out, but I hesitate to do that before I have a template or replacement metal bent up.

-Kevin

The soda blasting really isn't going to help the header at all and not sure it will do anything to the other inside panels either. The $350 would be better spent on a new gas tank.

Soda blasting itself, as already noted, is a very weak process and used for delicate materials. There is no reason whatsoever to not get it sandblasted as warpage happens only when blasting large flat panels such as hoods and won't hurt the floors at all. I've had two different cars completely sandblasted with no ill affect at all.

As for the rusted header, blasting it won't fix it and as it is, it is structurally unsound and unsafe. The easiest way to fix it would be to simply have the roof replaced rather than patching up what's there and is not as difficult as it sounds. If you can't find a roof locally, check with Tucson Packard as Mike has several to choose from that are in the dry Arizona desert and are rust free. Replacing it is your best bet.

Don - I'm hoping that the soda blasting cleans everything up so that we can see what we're actually dealing with. Replacing the entire roof is not an option. I guess I should explain my purpose with this car. I'm not in a position to do anything like a concours restoration. My plan is to get this thing to "good" driver status, then slowly improve from there. As such, I will do what I can while not doing a full frame off/strip everything resto. I likely will not have this car forever.

-Kevin

Have you had time to remove the windshield yet? John

I understand and appreciate that. However, I don't think I would consider it a driver as long as it's unsafe as it would be with a weakened header as that's a structural member of the body,