Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

You’re really going to town and making headway by leaps and bounds! If it were mine, I would probably still be staring at it blankly trying to figure out what to do.

Trying to make hay before it gets too cold to work or paint out there!

Just to put my 2 cents in ---- when you do get to the body I really like the Cord fenders, striking look. Solves the door opening issue while keeping Marks vision. By the way you make me feel like I'm going in slow motion on my project with how fast you're tackling this project.

Kevin, another idea is to use the Cord as inspiration and modify the doors to a suicide configuration. It looks like with a front opening door it might just miss the fender. If not, maybe a little modification of the lower front corner of the door (more of a curve in the lower front) would give you the clearance you need. Suicide doors on that car would be classy, and to me would go along with custom aspect of the car.

I'm looking for a source for these chrome trim screws that hold the door garnish moldings in place. The existing ones are pretty crusty. These are chrome plated steel with a sloted head (not phillips).

See diagram for approx measurements. Not sure what that translate into screw sizes. I know some of the trim screws use different headsizes relative to there shaft sizes vs standard screws. I also need the corresponding cup Washers.

If someone could point me at the correct screws I would appreciate it.

Attach file:

---

  Screenshot_20221127_075002.jpg (128.46 KB)


  Screenshot_20221127_074912.jpg (63.61 KB)


  Screenshot_20221127_074852.jpg (99.44 KB)

You are looking for a number 6 oval head sheet metal screw. service@spaenaur.com have the straight slot ones. Their part number is 52-64, page B79 of their catalogue. I have attached the ones I used but they are phillip drive which I know is incorrect but way safer to use around fresh paint. I drove mine in sans washers as I am not able to source them and they look great. If some rivet counter shows up and calls me on the lack of washers and the wrong head style he may have an unpleasant welcome.
Bob J.

Attach file:

---

  Number 6 oval head screw.jpg (49.97 KB)

Some of the sizes in old slotted types are really hard to find in small quantity and have almost become obsolete or the sizes are only made in Phillips head. On some really short ones I have had to buy longer screws and then cut and repoint the shanks if there was no clearance for longer lengths.

Yours looks to be a wood or tapping screw so you might also check out Restoration Specialties and maybe download their latest catalog to see if they still have the same selection. It appears they only carry the reduced head type screws in Phillips head. Here is page 190 showing what they had in slotted types from a catalog I have labeled as the 2020 version. What they have in reduced head is a page or so later.

A few pages after the reduced heads they show the type finishing washer you have. Didn't search very hard for other selections but at a glance did not see chrome. They did have nickel over brass that might work with the chrome head.

When looking for screws for the 47 I did not find a chart showing actual head sizes in decimal but did find a good chart on the various screw size to decimal conversions.

Attach file:

---

  Restoration Spec.jpg (134.36 KB)


  INCH screw_size_chart.jpg (536.45 KB)

Thanks for information guys. I'll see what I can find based on that info!

The slotted oval head screws will be hard to find but Restoration Specialties has Phillips head screws.

Part number AV2711, #8 x 7/8 with #6 Phillips oval head, chrome

The cup washers would be #6 flanged countersunk washers, available in nickel plated brass from R-S, Part number AV3469

More work today, finished stripping out as the underhood and dash wiring. Also removed the remaining chunk of original (but no longer used) wire harness.

Next moved on to removing the temporary panel that was put in place to cover the hole where the firewall was cut to provide space for the Jag motor. The temp panel was pretty much just insulation and cardboard. I'll fab up a metal panel to replace that.

With that removed, I pulled the remains of the original rubber floor mat out. It pretty petrified and broken. So this will get replaced with carpet latter on. But may be useful as a template.

With what out and the pedal pads removed, (gas pedal is pretty reached, so need to add that to the parts list), I pull up the toe panel. I could see daylight through it in many places. It to far gone to patch repair it. So a replacement will need to go in.

Meanwhile I start stripping the rust away on the rest of the firewall and underdash area so they can get painted.

Attach file:

---

  Screenshot_20221127_161149.jpg (194.69 KB)


  Screenshot_20221127_161119.jpg (201.06 KB)


  Screenshot_20221127_161227.jpg (176.16 KB)


  Screenshot_20221127_161029.jpg (198.60 KB)


  20221127_150702.jpg (1,716.66 KB)


  20221127_142915.jpg (1,459.36 KB)