Packard Forum Index » Modification Discussion

For sure keep us all in the loop on how it works out, and if Kanter is able to correct the issues with the kit you received. I am sure a lot of folks would be interested if this kit is a viable solution for those that want to add Disc brakes.

Regards,

You might compare kits and issues with buddyfromvb. This thread mentions some similar issues. Wonder if Kanter's kits are actually the same ones ABS makes.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=96864#forumpost96864

Quote:
"Also, while the caliper mount bracket picks up the top two brake backing-plate holes o.k., the hole spacing on the little link piece to connect to one of the lower bolts is off by about 3/16". (There is plenty of room on the bracket to drill another hole in the right position.)"

Post some pics of it mocked up on the car?????

As for the lugs i'd be more tempted to just run 1/2" lug NUTS rather than to drill out for bolts. THere mite not be enuf meat to tap, i don;t know. Vendor needs to or should have supplied the lug nuts.

As for the wheel pilot no worry unless u plan to Baha or win 24 hours of LeMans with the car. The center pilot for even high speed normal to slightly heavy loads is not important for passenger car or lite truck.

Some pics of the set up mocked up on the car (as close as u can get it) would be very helpful.

Above ALL things mock up the kit assembled to the car as best u can with what u have. CHECK FOR WHEEL INTERFERENCE with any of the parts such as caliper, rotor, mounting bolts etc.

In my mind if you paid for a "bolt on kit", it should be bolt on without modifications. If you start to monkey with it, then the vendor isn't going to take it back if there is a problem that can't be easily overcome. Best to have them make it right, refund your cash, or give you some type of discount.

It would also be helpful to see a picture of a brake pad. Lay a $1 dollar bill next to it for a relative size comparison.

Are u sure the wheel studs in the rotor are 1/2-20 and NOT metric????

I'm not planning to do any modifications, yet.

Regarding thread size...it is 1/2-20. No lug nuts were provided in the kit. These studs are usual automotive stud pieces pounded into the rotor. Part of the shank portion of the stud is larger than 1/2" and is a slight interference fit with the hole in the rotor. It looks like it is larger than a 9/16" thread tap drill so I can't tap it out to a 9/16-18 thread. (9/16-18 studs are available in the auto parts world.)

I'll take some photos and post them...at this instant I'm expecting company and will not get dirty again until tomorrow morning. I'll get a photo of the brake pad...that's another interesting thing. No documentation in the kit tells exactly what brake pad / caliper was used so when it comes time to replace parts I'll have to ransack the local Napa store to find what I have.

I did a preliminary quicky-fit-up to see how it fits and all is o.k. The front end isn't cleaned up and ready for the conversion so the photos will show some (!) grease and grime. I only became concerned when I noted the obvious thread size difference. Then I saw that the pilot diameter wasn't quite big enough...and I started doing some measuring. (BTW,I still prefer centering the wheel on a pilot diameter if at all possible...if it was good enough for Packard it is good enough for me.)

Even with all the problems the kit looks nice and when all is sorted out I'll have disc brakes on the front of my car. I'll be slightly disappointed if Kanter doesn't have a rotor assembly with a proper lug configuration...but I still have the option of making some mods on the supplied parts to get what I need.

BigKev...I agree that if it is advertised as 'bolt-on' it should be 'bolt-on'. However, I've been researching this conversion for a couple years and this is the closest thing I've found to what I want.

I've been looking back over this entire thread and to put in my two cent's worth...disc brakes are superior to drum brakes. I'll retain all the parts so it can easily be restored to the original configuration. However, having a dual chamber master cylinder as a by-product of the conversion to disc brakes makes me feel safer...to say nothing of the superior performance of the discs.

From a dollars and cents standpoint the conversion really isn't a lot of money. This car needs new drums, shoes, master cylinder, and wheel cylinders. The conversion expense in reality isn't a whole lot more than just doing the brake work on the original setup. (Admittedly there will be a bit of expense for the new power booster and master cylinder...but that's not a lot of money.)

Photos to Follow.

M.

The rather sparse instructions stated that the caliper mount bracket should be in the forward position. When the caliper is in the forward position a slight steering to one side or the other results in caliper-to-roll bar interference. (Note that in the photo I have the wrong caliper in place...the bleed port should be on the top. No matter, the interference exists in either position.)

When the bracket is turned around (to the 'rear' position) you can see the aforementioned hole misalignment between the hole in the link bar and the corresponding hole in the caliper bracket.

The overall assembly is nice looking and I'm actually getting attached to it. (Of course, anyone who thinks a '48 Packard sedan is nice looking might not be a reliable witness in this situation.)

I can see that installing 1/2" lug nuts would probably center the wheel adequately, too, so if this is what the supplier intended I might be inclined to go along with it. I want to see it in writing, of course.

Documentation for the kit is lacking, IMHO. I'd like to see authorization to go without the hub-centric feature and also authorization to use the 1/2" lug nuts. Also, an interchange list of what wheel bearings, seals, and brake pads are used in this kit.

So, I'm awaiting word from Kanter. I apologize for the dirty front end parts. Things are being disassembled right now and I wasn't planning on displaying any pictures until the clean reassembly was underway.

M.

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(Admittedly there will be a bit of expense for the new power booster and master cylinder...but that's not a lot of money.)

Which setup are you contemplating?