Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

U do not indicate WHY the engine was pulled.
U do not indicate how well the engine ran before u pulled it.
U also do not indicate if u plan to rebuild the engine or what???


Those three questions mite vary responses.

Since u already have the ex manifolds off i won't comment.
Check the TEETH on the starter ring gear.
When valve covers and oil are removed check for small black plastic pieces about the size a finger nail or a littl smaller. They are valve seals.

Use a GOOD LITE source and look thru the coils of valve spring at valve seals. inspect to see how hard they are or broken or STUCK against valve guide.

Valve seals can be replaced withOUT removing head.

If valve seals are replaced check for excessive valve guide wear while in the process of replaciing seals.

Check END of dip stick to oil PUMP float interference.

Rocker shafts are Hollow. IF removed for any reason then clen them out. They tend to sludge up. Inspect for wear.

Since this a (early 55 320???) look at PUSH ROD end of rocker arm to see if it has pee hole all the way thru it.

More as i think of it but thus far it seems like a lot of good advice from everyone so far.

Refresh my memmory, are u the Keegan that was making the gas tanks out of chevy tanks a year or so ago??? I can't remeber.

Keegan. I also sent u a private email.

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Body is already off the frame and I pulled the motor to change the transmission.

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When the engine was last run, about 2 years ago, it ran just fine and I don't remember any glaring issues about it's performance.

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I don't plan to rebuild the engine. But as long as it's out of the frame I figured that I'd take the opportunity to do some inspections.



Yes I was working on the Chevrolet tank for my Packard. I need to update that thread soon with some more information. I took about a year off from this project and am just now getting back in the swing of things.

Thanks for the great info PackardV8!!

I would use Stainless Steel freeze plugs, they are used for diesel engines. i have a set.

But looking for smaller ones for water pump and other parts..


rik

Thanks Rik.


I pulled the rocker covers off and got my first look inside.

Looks like the valve seals are messed up. Passenger side look torn up. Drivers side look different. Like they were replaced in the past? I'll let you engine detectives take a look.

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please look at my blog for great pics on rebuilding this motor, includes pics of positive valve steam seals.

Hank

I did a compression test last night. When last it ran, it seemed to run fine but it hasn't turned over for a couple of years and I was glad to find it wasn't stuck and the starter motor still managed to turn it over.

I did the first round just as the motor was left and the second test was with 3-4 squirts of oil in the cylinders.

Cylinder# Test-1/Test-2
1...............127 / 156
2...............127 / 152
3................97 / 120
4................80 / 125
5...............107 / 115
6...............100 / 132
7...............122 / 128
8...............108 / 145

I assume these results indicate new piston rings are needed? I was really hoping to avoid tearing this motor apart. Will these numbers improve when the motor is back running again or is that just wishful thinking?

As I previously mentioned, tearing into a running engines is a slippery slope. There's really no stopping place.

Yes, your compression is a bit low. The Shop Manual says a minimum of 120 lbs/sq in. cranking compression at 150 rpm.

No, since your engine hasn't been run in two years, the first test isn't a clear indication.

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Maybe, as the rings and cylinder walls get slicked up and re-oiled, compression usually improves.

OTH, it will never be easier or less expensive to do a complete rebuild. Figure a minimum of $3,000 to do it correctly. I've got one old stock rebuild without hard exhaust seats for $2500.

jack vines

Thank you Jack. I'm going to continue my inspections and report my findings as they come. I'm trying really hard not to slide down that slippery slope