Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

The manual valve lever in the 56 transmission has been known to strip the threads in the set-screw hole allowing slop in the shifting or even coming out completely leaving you stuck in whatever gear you were in when the set-screw fell. The best known remedy to me is a heli-coil, but that requires removal of the manual valve lever. This is no small undertaking, but can be accomplished without pulling the transmission.
1. Place jack under the trans pan and support the trans.
2. Remove the four bolts from the drive shaft to tail-shaft.
3. Remove the six bolts and two nuts securing the rear
cross member and remove the cross member.
4. Using a small scissor jack or bottle jack, push the tail
shaft toward the pass. side as far as room will allow.
5. Place a jack under the rear motor mount and support the
transmission.
6. With the trans now supported at the tail shaft, remove
the jack under the transmission pan, drain the
transmission, and carefully remove the pan.
7. Remove the cap screw holding the push-button bracket at
the forward end of the bracket. Remove the cover plate on
the bottom of the PB motor. Loosen the jam nut and
remove the set screw securing the sector gear to the
manual valve shaft. Slide the actuator as far off the
shaft as you can and then tilt the top of the actuator
toward the transmission. The actuator will then clear
the shaft and allow its removal. Thanks to Dave
Czirr for this invaluable tip. Secure the actuator
to the frame via bungy cord or whatever you have handy.
8. Drive the index pin (roll pin) out of the shaft (see
fig.29 in the manual-Twin Ultra Transmission). Loosen
the allen set screw to allow the metal collar to slide
on the manual shaft. Wrap some tape around the manual
shaft and grip it with pliers or vise grips and slide
the shaft out far enough to remove the manual lever so
that it can be removed and repaired with the heli-coil.
9. Reverse the procedure to install the manual valve.

I apologize for not making the text bigger in the pictures, but if you click on them, they are readable.

Are we having fun yet? Have to finish this so I can go to Warren and harass Ole.

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repair after on a 55. see post 566 from following link.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=653&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=560

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Nicely done, both of you. Have never worked with helicoils so looks like a nice option. Isn't or wasn't that piece being made in real metal -- maybe brass -- by someone as a permanent cure?

Great stuff!

I'll bring to Warren a manual control valve lever with a stripped thread for you to put a helicoil in and a pan gasket, of course.

Ole

My pal!

Helicoil is an easy solution to restoring damaged threads. A kit will cost about $30 for a 5/16" size and includes several thread coils, a tap tool, and the insert tool. The tap size drill, unfortunately, is not included. I recently had to do a thread repair to an exhaust manifold and the Helicoil worked like a charm. It should work in blind and through holes; although, I have only used it in through holes. The kits should be available at any good auto parts store, I bought mine at my nearby NAPA store.

(o[]o)

Even with a helicoil I always finish that job by drilling clean through the casting and shaft and inserting a roll pin so that even if you removed the bolt you still have a nice tight shifting action. My first boss after engineering school was emphatic to never use a set screw for a reversing load.

Randy,

I see you have a pot metal parking paw roller block. I have had to replace mine with the metal ones from Ultramatic dynamics.

I agree with Ross on the role pin. I had the opportunity to spend a week with Bob Aller many years ago. We rebuilt my burned up 56 clipper transmission, and a couple of 55's. He did the same.