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Front wheel bearings
#1
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mypackard
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I have searched through all my manuals and the Pachard Service index and no where can I find the procedure for setting the front wheel bearings after packing.
What is the first torque setting and then the back off and resetting?

Posted on: 2012/8/25 20:06
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Re: Front wheel bearings
#2
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HH56
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You didn't mention a year but this is from the 51-4 manual and same spec is in 55-6 manual. Only manual info with specific torque spec I see but probably typical. Others just say draw up tight and back off the nut a certain amount.

I can see where the word "tight" might have a wide range of interpretation but 20 ft lbs is probably a good reference for "tight".

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Posted on: 2012/8/25 20:25
Howard
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Re: Front wheel bearings
#3
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BH
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mypackard -

If this is in regards to your 1937 115C, you are correct that this procedure isn't provided in either the 1937 or the 1937-1938 shop manual.

Although it isn't obviously listed in the topics included in the online Service Index that I compiled for the 1935-37 Juniors (just not possible to list every detail), know that "Mechanical Specifications and Adjustments" were published in the factory service newsletter as new models were introduced. (Prior to 1937, they were known as "Standard Sizes and Adjustments".)

For 1937, look to SL Vol. 10, No. 17; "Wheel Bearing Adjustment" is the last entry under the "FRONT SUSPENSION" section (pg. 5 of the PDF). However, no torque specs are provided.

My dad, who worked in both Packard and GM dealerships for many years, never torqued front wheel bearings, but would simply give the tire a good spin just before he cinched the castle nut with a pair of water pump pliers (aka - tongue and groove pliers, Channellocks, etc.) until it felt reasonably tight (neither loose nor binding), then proceed as directed.

Posted on: 2012/8/25 20:56
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Re: Front wheel bearings
#4
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BlackBeerd
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I have repacked tons of tapered roller bearing spindles. Normal procedure is to tighten it up while turning the hub until its fairly hard to turn. This seats the bearings. Too tight will crush the rollers or dent the races. That's why a torque spec is there. After it is tight, loosen the nut without turning the hub until it is loose then turn it tight by hand and lock it with what ever method is uses. Roller bearings need a bit of clearance for the grease. Too loose and you get a squishy feeling, too tight and the burn up. After running a few miles, feel the hub. Warm is normal. Hot is bad.

Posted on: 2012/8/26 6:26
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: Front wheel bearings
#5
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PackardV8
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Quote from BH:
"My dad, who worked in both Packard and GM dealerships for many years, never torqued front wheel bearings, but would simply give the tire a good spin just before he cinched the castle nut with a pair of water pump pliers (aka - tongue and groove pliers, Channellocks, etc.) until it felt reasonably tight (neither loose nor binding), then proceed as directed"

What BH describes is standard procedure that i've seen done by many well seasoned mechanics for many decades accross a wide variety of auto's and i even still do it that way to this day.

The only detail i will add is that where he says "cinched the castel nut" i would describe as enuf 'torque' on the channellocks to resemble only the weight of ones arm in one quick drop of the arm. Probably about 10 foot pounds of torque using a torque wrench. Then back off or loosen castle nut to the NEAREST slot in the castel nut to get the cotter pin in.

And as BH indicates, rotate the wheel while cinching up the castle nut.

Bottom line:
Do not leave the nut tightened up tight at any torrque readingof say 5 to 15 ft-pounds . There has to to be some clearence in beariing. That clearence is determined by ONE slot of the castle nut.

So "torqueing wheel bearings" is somewhat of a misconception because it is not the final step of the adjustment. Backing off the castle nut ONE slot IS the final adjustment.

Posted on: 2012/8/26 7:03
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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Re: Front wheel bearings
#6
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Guscha
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Quote:
You didn't mention a year ...

Jim (mypackard), help the community to help you by including your 1937 Six Touring Sedan in your automatic signature line, preferably with a link to the corresponding entry in the Packard Owner Registry.

--> How to ...



[This way for getting an oil change service door sticker]

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Posted on: 2012/8/26 7:06
The story of ZIS-110, ZIS-115, ZIL-111 & Chaika GAZ-13 on www.guscha.de
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Re: Front wheel bearings
#7
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JWL
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mypackard,

The 37 Juniors (and maybe across the whole Packard line) have a somewhat different design for securing the hub to the spindle. It consists of a large nut, a locking washer, and a lock nut. Adjust the preload on the wheel bearings by backing off the large nut as suggested. Then fit the locking washer. It has a tang to fit in the groove in the spindle and a series of holes to accommodate the pin on the large nut. Tighten the lock nut against the washer and large nut. THEN AND MOST IMPORTANT, use a cotter pin to secure the whole thing. I have seen the cotter pins left off. I guess the thinking was that since there is a lock nut the cotter pin is not necessary. WRONG!!!

All of this is from memory, and I am unable to go look at the car as it not in the garage now. All of this is obvious once you study the parts and their relationships.

(o[]o)

Posted on: 2012/8/26 11:58
We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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Re: Front wheel bearings
#8
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mypackard
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Yes I do have a 1937 115C which I forgot to mention. Thanks to all for the responses. I think I will go with the 20 pds torque and then back off one hole on the washer. If the hubs feel to warm I willl try a different method of 20 pds, back off and retorque to 4 pds. If anyone comes across any more methods I would appreciate it.
Thanks again

Posted on: 2012/8/26 12:52
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Re: Front wheel bearings
#9
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Owen_Dyneto
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I don't see why Packard's (revised) method for 55/56 wouldn't be just fine for any car with the same type of adjustment. The most important thing that's already been said or implied is that you DON'T want any preload on the bearings, just a HINT of free play that you can just barely feel if you rock the tire back and forth.

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Posted on: 2012/8/26 15:00
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Re: Front wheel bearings
#10
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Ozstatman
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Quote:
mypackard wrote:Yes I do have a 1937 115C which I forgot to mention...
Jim,

See you just included your '37 115C in the Registry, again! You had already included it back in January 2011. But not to worry I have updated your original entry and deleted the recent entry to maintain the Registry's integrity. Actually I should blame Gerd, Guscha, for provoking you into redoing the entry with his post!


And my in all this? We use the method JW advocates with great success.

Posted on: 2012/8/26 15:43
Mal
/o[]o\
====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

What's this?
Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry!
Here's how!
Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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