Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

G'day Men,

I've just taken delivery of a set of Steele Rubber rear support arm bushings for my '56 Patrician and am seeking some advice about the best way to tackle the job. I've consulted the service manual but it provides very little information That I could find on the subject at all and I've done a search on this website but drew a blank as well. On the face of it, it doesn't look too complicated but with the torsion bars hooked up back there, I don't want to end up with a catastrophe. Are there any pitfalls to be wary of? Also, is there a "better" way to do it rather than just undoing 4 nuts and lifting the axle sufficiently to remove and replace the bushings. All advice gratefully accepted. Thanks, John

First, there is no danger of the bars unwinding at the rear as the load arms are captive in the frame--they unwind so far and stop.

The job is best done on a lift but can be done with the back of the car on jack stands under the frame. Undo the shocks and watts linkage. Lift the car, and the load arms will drop to their limit. Do one side at a time. Put a ratcheting strap over the frame to hold up the axle on one side. Drive out the roll pin where the load arm hangs on the suspension arm. Undo all the necessary bolts and remove the entire suspension arm. I say this as you WILL want to replace the bushes at the front of the suspension arms also.

Replace the bushes and then the suspension arm. I usually assemble loosely at the axle, then pull the front pivot into place. Don't worry about hooking up the load arm yet if it doesn't want to line up. Do the other side.

If the load arm stirrups don't want to swing into place, lower the car till the wheels touch the ground and the axle starts to swing up. Bang the stirrups into place and replace the rollpin. Then just put everything back.

Thanks Ross, your instructions are very detailed but quite easy to follow. Sadly I don't have the space for a lift (we call them hoists) so will have to use the jacking method. I actually ordered a bushings kit from Steele but didn't realise that it was for the axle bushings only - obviously the fronts have to be ordered separately. I take your point about doing the fronts at the same time and I should have done my homework properly and ordered them as well. So, I'll do that today and the job can wait until they arrive. Means paying again for shipping but that's the penalty I'll have to wear for not being thorough enough. Thanks again, John

Hi JP, and Ross,

one other question, the torque of the nuts?,, the book says anything but the spec torque,,

Looking at the Steele catalogue on line, there are two sets of bushings: a four piece and an eight piece.

Which did you get, and why (as in what is the difference?)

G'day Pat,

The four piece set goes to the front of the suspension arm (the pivot point) and the eight piece set to the other end where the arm bolts to the axle housing (with "U" bolts). Plate 32B in the Parts Book shows where they fit (all 12 numbered 15.994). I've now started the process of getting the four piece set to do the job properly as recommended by Ross. Cheers, John

At the axle, the bushes are being collapsed to the length of the steel spacers on the u-bolts, thus the assembly is steel on steel when the nuts are drawn down. So I just tighten them by feel suitable for that size nut and wrench. You could look up the generic torque for that size nut.

Which should I get: the four piece set or the eight.

Answer: It's a Packard; you'll need both... Oi!

Job's done! Sounds simple and Ross' instructions also sounded simple, but I'm here to tell you that life wasn't meant to be easy, or simple. It seems the Patrician had had the right side bushes replaced in recent history and was able to be disassembled relatively easy, although that 1.5" nut on the front pivot needs a bloody big spanner.

However, for some reason the left side hasn't been touched for donkey's years (that's aussie for a hell of a long time). The rubber components were stuck pretty well to the metal surroundings, but were eventually able to be dislodged with plenty of penetrating lubricant, levering and cutting. After that the fun really started. Both metal sleeves were frozen firmly to the "U" bolt and refused to budge no matter how much penetrating fluid or hammering was done. I don't have an oxy set but do have a small propane torch so eventually called on that to apply some heat. This was alternated with rotational force using vice grips. Nothing seemed to be happening for quite awhile until a small amount of movement was felt. Repeatedly doing this finally dislodged the B. The same thing all over again with the other one. Boy, was I weary after all of this heavy stuff.

I turned the sleeves in the lathe to take of the high spots and reamed the inside to remove all rust. Likewise with the "U" bolt regarding rust removal, and assembled everything using plenty of Loctite anti-seize lubricant on metal to metal parts and rubber lubricant on the rubber parts. The suspension arms are pretty long and weighty and reattaching them to the car is awkward. Another pair of hands would have been great but the job can be managed with a jack and a lot of grunting.

Was it worth it? Most definitely! I didn't realise the difference it would make having new bushes on both sides and all components being able to move as required. In short, the rear end now feels tighter but more supple. Also, that squeak I thought I had in a left torsion bar bush is gone - maybe it was the rear axle bushes all the time. I feel the car now sits on the road better and corners better. I just hope that I don't have to do it all again anytime soon. Cheers, John