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What would cause an engine to have no compression? The engine is a 327. Was running fine the other day. Then went to start it today does not start does have oil pressure. The engine turns over fine.

If it actually has no compression and that is verified by a compression test then the most likely reason is valves have stuck.. I do remember within the last year there have been several who have reported a similar situation.

IIRC, it seems as if they all reported the engine seemed to be running fine and then after sitting a week or two it wouldn't start. After tests several did find stuck valves with the only common theme seeming to be the car had been running on old gas that had been sitting in the tank a long time.

Perhaps one of those affected will see your post and can fill in more details.

If compression is OK and the car is still 6v then other reasons people have found for non starting are poor spark because of dirty connections, too small a battery cable or low or failing battery not being able to supply enough voltage to coil when starter is pulling high current.

Stuck valves is a problem eased by, for a brief while, using un-cracked petrol such as racing fuel or aviation-gas. Packard service letters mention this when prewar new Packards were moved around the shop.

Thanks for the info. Stuck valves was the problem put some wd40 in them and they come back to life engine starts and runs.

Good to hear your problem was resolved with minimal effort. Others have not been as lucky. Out of curiosity, was there old gas in the tank and your stuck valves followed pattern or is this something that happened with fresh gas?

Maybe try running some 2-stroke oil. Just pour a little in the gas tank.

Figure a 50:1 mix. Even maybe 100:1 might eleminate the problem.

Unless you want a blue plume, I'd forego the 2 cycle oil mix. That'll upset the fuel/air ratio and cause more soot.
My guess would be that the oil runs are plugging off, and/or sludge is building up. Weak springs or excessive wear(sloppy) would be next. Non-roller lifters after long abuse can "mushroom" over at the cam end and get stuck if over revved. Another reason to get rid of the carb starters. Since it's seems like more than just one cylinder, because it would fire off with a couple cylinders out, I'd change the oil, clean the pan, and adjust the valves and not worry about the gas... If it continues, then it's overhaulin time. Oil degrades more than gas sitting around since it's already contaminated. Ethanol fuel is another story, mostly water pickup/corrosion issues.

I thought about this some more and think the "old gas" is a symptom not a cause. If your gas is sitting around in the tank long enough to get "old", then you're not exercising your motor car enough.
There were studies done decades ago, that most of the wear in the internal combustion motors occurs during start-up, when the parts are turning but the oil pump hasn't established flow. Essentially a short run without oil. The longer it sits between starts the more the oil drains out of the system to the pan. That slow flow out can leave deposits behind. This is a known problem on race engines and they turn them without firing until the oil pressure comes up after builds. Tolerances are tighter here. They came up with break in oil and lubes now to minimize this.
If you're not starting your engine every week/daily then probably may want to think about disconnecting the coil wire and turning over with the starter until the oil circulates/pressure comes up. Might be hard on the old 6V starter, so don't over do it. Let the starter cool down before cranking again with the coil connected. And don't rev the engine "cold". Let it warm up before revving, if at all. They don't recommend idle warm ups anymore so a slight increase over idle is better than a large one.
Change the oil, at least yearly instead of based on mileage, if you don't drive enough to get to oil change in one year. It still degrades once the engine has fired. Combustion products go into the oil and the oil additives only last so long.
Depending on the type and age of motor you have, other maintenance might be called for.
Solid lifter motors need to have the valves adjusted properly too, because if they're loose/tight, it damages the valve train. If the motor wasn't completely rebuilt, there's likely sludge and deposits in the valves, oil pasages, etc, so inspection might be necessary also. They used leaded gas and that liked to build up crud on the valve stems. Some of these motors don't have oil filters and that's makes it even worse.

I simply can not buy into the "old gas" claims. On several various engines over many years i've had several that sat for as long as 3 years unttouched. The 3 year oldgas performed flawlessly once engine started and ran under moderate demand.
Of course there has been a few examples of engines of unkown history where the gas in the tank was conspicuosly unfit to even flow.