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Quote:

I bought mine from Flock-It (used to be DonJer)http://www.flockit.com but I would think that Australia has craft type places that sell it.

I used the nylon "Feather Brown" for the trunk and the liner. Nylon because the fiber size is a bit larger and more durable. As mentioned, I think my choice in color might be a tad darker than original but still looks good.

Next query, I recently received a new flexible fuel line from Max, however the fitting onto the hard line on the chassis is different. Basically the new fitting is deeper (more thread, say 2mm) and does not seal the flare.

With an electric pump, it sprays petrol (gas) everywhere!

Also I wonder if my steel fuel line has been tampered with??? As the end is flat I'm not sure that I'd get a proper seal on the flare?

Very frustrating as this issue has left my Packard "off the road", and I want to test my recent overdrive repairs!

Thanks

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Someone has butchered the fitting by cutting the actual flare end off. Yours should be rounded like this example.

Your choices now would be to try and duplicate whatever they had adapted. Not sure what is available in Australia but possibly there is a pipe to flare adapter similar to the one shown available so you can use the new tube. The old flex tube that had been adapted must have had something like a pipe thread.

Otherwise, I think it would be find another correct solder on Packard item and redo per original or cut that damaged piece off completely and do the inverted flare directly on the tubing. Packard changed to that type connection during the 23rd series. You would need a flaring tool, tubing nut, and the later hose assy if you did that.

One other possibility is a thick O ring or beveled washer if the fitting end is flat and a suitable sized one could be found rated for use with gasoline.

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Thanks Howard, I'd thought that was the case. Any idea on what size the flare adaptor is?

Cheers

Lyndon,

I was going to suggest trying Pirtek or Enzed for hose and line fittings but I see they aren't in BH! Instead you might try SouthState Industrial Supplies who are in BH.

The inverted flare size for the fitting to adapt to the flexible fuel line is 5/16

Quick question: How is the fuel gauge sender unit earthed? As far as I can tell the chassis frame and tank straps are lined with the anti-rattle material.

Generally there is still some metal to metal contact in spite of the anti-squeak on the straps. Tank ribs touching the trunk floor and via the fuel line are examples. That makes a good contact on a new or undisturbed car but on a freshly painted or a rusty car, or one where the line was cut and rubber tubing inserted, it certainly won't hurt to add a good ground strap between a sender mounting screw and the body to avoid any questionable contact.

Well I have been able to repair my fuel line issue with a flare adator as suggested by Howard above.

Next issue returns us back to the overdrive, the symtoms are with the car running and the overdrive in the loackout position, the relay buzzes away and the dash light flickers on. I have have an all new wiring harness and rebuilt relay. I'll be double checking the wiring to the soleniod. I also do have a reconditioned soleniod that I might fit.

Any one else experienced similiar?

Thanks

With the lockout knob pulled out, the switch contacts on the end of the lockout bracket assy should be open so if the relay is wired correctly nothing should be able to bring the relay in.

If good at the switch then I would look carefully at the relay terminals. The stamped labels are hard to see but it might be advantageous to remove the screws and little tabs on a couple of them so you can see the numbers and to make sure the relay is actually oriented and wired as you think it is.

Here is a photo of the relay so you can see the interior and how the terminals are labeled and oriented.

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