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Just got my Packard a few weeks ago, there were no keys for it. Some previous owner rigged an on/off switch on the steering column. No idea how long that has been there.

After labeling the wires one by one and using the "Rigged" switch I removed the ignition to take to the locksmith. I slipped a nut and bolt through the wires so I could start the car and move it as needed.

Got the ignition switch and reinstalled it leaving the "Rigged" switch out. Now it doesn't start. My question;
Does the ignition switch go out on these cars? I have double checked my wiring and everything appears as it should except the "Rigged" switch is not in the loop.

Oh! another question just came to mind, would a "Rigged" switch require a change in some other place beside the ignition switch, as an example under the hood somewhere?

Should I just buy a new ignition?

Thanks for your help.
Barry

I wouldn't say key switch failure is prevalent or even common but as with most anything electrical and over a half-century old, it's certainly possible. Simplist thing to do is to just check the switch with an ohmmeter to see if you get connectivity when you turn the key to the on position. That simple. If not, the switch is bad; if yes, your problem is elsewhere. If you don't have an ohmmeter, just use a battery and bulb.

NAPA/Echlin has a large variety of "universal" ignition switches that are suitable though you may not be able to use the original bezel.

My switch tends to be "dead" when turned all the way to the right. I have to back it off a little for it to have power. Maybe yours is similar? Also I assume you eliminated the wires going to the rigged switch or connected them together to complete the circuit?

When you say doesn't start will it crank but not start or does it not crank at all? Depending on what is happening might help narrow it down. Second thing is you say 49 but for a 49 there are two switches your car could have so another question.

If a 49 22nd series the key will only turn to the right so the COIL and GA terminal should both be active when key is to the right for switch on. In the 23rd series 49 the key turns both directions with center being off. In turning to the left position only the GA terminal is active. Turning to the right and COIL and GA are both active.

Normally the coil is fed directly from the COIL terminal and is usually the only wire on the terminal. The GA terminal feeds everything else. If the car cranks but no start verify you are getting voltage to the coil. It is possible the switch is defective and that terminal doesn't work. If the car doesn't crank verify the carb starter switch is getting voltage on one side when the key is on. If that terminal is bad there should be several other things that are not working so maybe a wire is missing.

It doesn't crank at all now.
Its a 2392, and yes the key goes to the left and right (which I thought was like using accessory setting on current cars) nothing happens either way.

I think I will start with Owen's suggestion with ohm meter, then check voltage under the hood. I was just concerned I missed a mystery wire somewhere.

If worse comes to worse I can re-wire the "Rigged" switch (Actually a household on / off switch or some call light switch)so I can get the car back into the garage again (I hate pushing it)

Thanks for your help.

Also verify the wires are on the correct terminals. The letters are tiny and can be hard to see. GA is the long terminal but the COIL and BAT are same length so you have to look very carefully for the lettering.

Howard mentioned the carbstarter switch terminals briefly, remember that the older Packards had a switch on the carb that makes contact when you put the accel pedal to the floor and that's what energizes the starter. There will be 2 wires going to terminals on the rear (I think yours should be similar to mine) of the carb, then there is a ball inside there that sucks in with vacuum once the car starts and that breaks the continuity. So just turning the key doesn't start the car, that just powers the switch.

That was probably what the temporary starter switch in your car was bypassing.

Double check your wiring.
I'm pretty sure the 23 series wiring diagrams are on this site. I printed them off before. In order for the column rigged starter to work without the ignition switch he had to bring a hot lead from somewhere or taken the one for the ignition and probably bypassed the carb switch and went straight to the selenoid since the ignition switch didn't function as intended.
My factory switch was missing, so I bought a 3 position universal(NAPA) and wired it and it worked fine, except my carb starter didn't work so I had to bypass/jumper it.

Must have short, the ignition checked out fine with the ohm meter. Double, triple checked my tagged wires and the terminals. Installed the back on the ignition and nothing. Before I started messing with it, it fired up and I drove it home.

The wires to the carb, starter, distributor and generator have all been changed to new wire (Should say newer wire, plastic coated). So this is going to be a challenge.

I have downloaded the schematic from this website and printed it. So I think I'm all set, except for the chiropractors appointment when finished.

Thank you all for writing and don't stop either. Everyone has been helpful.

B.

It's easy to get confused with positive ground. Any place they ground out and it's game over, no juice.
Turn ignition on (may have to have someone hold) and check at selenoid and see if it's got 6V on the small wire side, if yes, then it's the selenoid. If no, it's the wiring.