Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Just in case you didn't see this on this site,
https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/BTV_Rebuild.pdf

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=2874&forum=3&post_id=29815#forumpost29815

Keep it simple
1. Buy the Ford explorer power unit and MC at local parts store
2.. Go to junk yard and get TWO explorer brake pedal units.
3. get out a hacck saw and make a couple of very simple flat adaapter plates.
4. Take a quik walk up the road mayb a mile and look for two SBC rod caps laying on the side of the road and use those to tie the pedal assy back to the mast jaacket. REAL EASY to do.

As a side note i highly recommend to AVOID the dual MC otherwise additionaal controls succh as a proportioning valve and most likely a residuaal pressure valve will have to be plumbed into the system. Use a 66 mustang MC. IT will bolt rite up to the Explorer power unit.

Keep it simple.

PackardV8 Quote:


Sorry, Keith, you are full of it. I've had my 3:1 ratio pedal system in my 55 Pat for over 12 years using the 1956 pedal, stock firewall mount pivot points and stock toe plate with NO dash support and it shows NO sign of fatigue or any other problem.

Just my humble experience.

Craig

Mounted to the toe-board probably ok. TRy it at the firewall thru the freshair vent hole with a standard modern pedal ratio of at least 5:1. The fire wall flexes alot. I tried it!!! Even beent the cross shaft of oem Packard pedal i tried to use at about only 4:1 pedal ratio which is the only reaason i haad to use the explorer pedal assembly.

The toe board is rather stiff as a small stamping with alot of draw recesss if i remeber rite. SO it would be rather strong. Your set up is NOTdepending any strength at the oem cross shaft of the pedal. Your anchor hinge point is much strong than the OEM design no matter where it is mounted.

Thank you to everyone for the info. I really appreciate it, having the car sitting for so long I felt out of the loop, and you guys are putting me back on track.

I told myself I wouldn't do anything to the car untill it stops, but of course it needs many things from sitting so long. I just recently had the starter rebuilt, some fuel line replaced, and it fires right up. So now that it will move again I can get back to what I put off too long ago.

As far as the BTV rebuild pdf, I had forgotten about that, and may end up throwing it back in the car, just to move it around in my driveway, but in the end it will probably end up rebuild living on a shelf. However I can and will take it apart at somepoint and grab some photos of its insides.

The Ford mod doesn't seem like a bad route, but that is still a single mc correct?

So if you have a failure in the system is there still any assist? Or am I sol like with the BTV? I'm not against plumbing in the residual pressure valves or proportioning valve.

I'm trying to decide what is realistic between keeping the car original and safety. If the stock pedal has to go it has to go, but of course I'd like to keep it. I would like to try and keep the booster in the toe plate so..

It's looking like I'm going to want to pick a booster wether it be the ford, Chevy BTV replacement, or some other 7-71/2" booster, Single diaphram, single or dual mc with a 5/8-11/16 piston., and swap out my pedal to one with an appropriate ratio for the booster.

That seems like the logical route to me, probably less work that building a rig off of the stock pedal.

Is the picture of the Panther projects pedal just visually deceiving? It looks so high but I thought he was saying it only ended up an inch higher than it was, with the whole pedal moved down.

Pac V8, Your link in post 12 is very interesting as I have not seen this thread before.
This may be the solution to putting a tandem master in my 55 with manual brakes. Despite a good deal of thought, there did not seem to be an easy solution.
Danke!

Brandon Quote:

The pedal is not "too high" or "out of place". After driving it for a few days, I never noticed the different position. Of course there are other solutions with the pedal almost in the stock position, e.g., Lance's 1979 Chevy Malibu adaption on his 1955 Clipper Constellation.

Craig

Quote:

I don't remember that one. Is there a post or photos on site?

Or you could replace the BTV with a non-power dual master cylinder. You would not have power brakes, but you would have the safety of a dual brake system.

Should not be too hard to do as the 51-56 standard brake pedal and linkage parts are readily available and will bolt right on. Some work to adapt a new master cylinder, but that should be relatively easy too.

I had the BTV removed from my formerly owned 55 Clipper and replaced with standard brake pedal and master cylinder. Braking was easy and smooth, and dependable.

(o{}o)

HH56 Quote:

I don't remember if Lance or I posted the pics. In any case, here are some that are unpublished on my 1956PackardPanther.com website:

Final install, inside view:



1979 Chevy components:



Firewall side, MC/booster mounted:



Brake lines:



Inside view of mounting. Notice the brace that PackardV8 was discussing above. This is included in the stock 1979 Chevy pedal bracket and fits the Packard firewall without mods. That pedal/booster/firewall is not going anywhere:



BTW, KevinAZ visited a while back and:

1) he doesn't like the pedal position on my Pat

2) he likes the pedal position on Lance's Clipper.

I have more pics of Lance's install, if you are interested.

Craig