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My 1935 eight engine had the head removed due to spark plug insert problems right after firing it up from a fresh rebuild, the head was reinstalled re using the same gasket. The engine had a compression leak that took some time to find, it made a ting, ting sound at the front of the engine. I replaced the head gasket, I torqued it incrementally to 63 pounds. I re torqued the head the following day, I ran the engine and no ting, ting. I drove the car for about 1 hour, everything fine. I re torqued the head when cool the following day. Today I was driving the car and again ting, ting and I can feel the compression leak same place with my finger. I re torqued the head warm this time, right now it seems ok. Did I screw up by not running the engine for 15 minutes and then re torquing warm? I do not have much faith that it is actually going to stay ok. I did a compression test and all cylinders are great. The head was surfaced, as was the block. Everything looked good when I replaced the head gasket last week. I think I messed up not re torquing after running the engine for 15 minutes, or I need to get a new head and a new gasket. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would like to add, I have no coolant in the oil, and no oil in the coolant.

I think I would remove the head and examine the area (head * block) for any cracks. I would clean and wipe down around the areas where the leak is then coat with a penetrating dye to look for cracks. If none are found, then I would reinstall the head with a new gasket. If you still have the old gasket, I would compare the new vs. the old.

Good luck and hopefully your problem is just a bad gasket. You might also want to check the head for flatness.

The copper head gasket spray has a good reputation, it can seal a small gap, plus distributes the heat more evenly on the gasket-to-head interface. Good stuff to use in my opinion.
Permatec Copper Spray

In this situation I would definitely use a new gasket from a genuine Packard source, they will compress whereas an old one refitted will not always seal as reliably (- although they often do, but you are taking a bit of a risk).

I guess you tightened the head nuts down in sequence as per the Service Manual(?), so it might be a leak via a crack around a stud or elsewhere. Get other opinions, but IMO how and when you did the re-torquing is not likely to be the issue in this case, you seem to have done the right thing. Just don't keep torquing in an attempt to fix the leak as you might break or strip a stud.

The Copper spray works great on all gaskets you don't plan on reusing!

I removed the head again today, the gasket had sealed beautifully. The head is junk, it has been welded on, and a water passage had corroded into one of the head stud holes. The head is everything bad but warped. I am now on the hunt for a cast iron head.

"I am now on the hunt for a cast iron head"

Is your current head aluminium(aluminum)? If it is, it's done well to last 80+ years.

I believe any 320 c.i. head from as far back as 1934 (and perhaps 1933) will fit and function, not that they are all that easy to find.

I have found a nice 33 head. I have noticed that the angle of the water inlet on the 33, 34 head is different then my '35, and it is part of the head. The 37, 38 super eight heads have a bolt on water neck and maybe my water neck will interchange with it. If not I can make something work.

Yes, the integral water outlet and angle of 33-34 heads will require some work-around. But given the very low production numbers for 33-34 I'd think later heads should be more available. In any case a key decision before buying any head for a flathead is making sure it hasn't been milled or surfaced to such a point that you have insufficient clearance left for the valves to open; if they have been surfaced beyond that limit they are just boat anchors.

Send a message to David (Flackmaster), he probably the head you need laying under the bed somewhere.