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I agree with having the cutoff switch. To change the wiring so key has to be on could be done on a stock car without too much work but might be more work with your 12v conversion. It depends on how much access there is behind the dash.

The stock wiring has the starter button getting power directly from the battery thru the ammeter. The ammeter terminal is used as a tie point to provide power to ign switch and to headlight switch as well as starter button. To change it so key has to be on you could remove the starter button wire (red arrow) from constant power and move it to the ign switch terminal or, on a stock car, the gas gauge terminal (blue arrow). That way the button would only get power when ign sw was on.

The 12v makes that harder because the gas gauge has to have 6v so is being powered thru some kind of reduction and would be unable to accommodate the starter connection. Starter button wire would need to be off ign sw and IIRC, on some cars the ign switch is kind of recessed so that terminal may be harder to access.

One other issue might be how the wire is connected to ammeter terminal. The schematic almost makes it look like there is some kind of splice in the main wire from ammeter and starter and headlight sw are fed off pigtails -- but that could just be an illusion. You would have to see exactly how the wire connects and determine the best course. If it is a splice connection you would have to remove the wire from starter button, tape it up and then add a new wire from button to ign sw.

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The problem with the ceramic reducers is that they that don't put out a fixed voltage amount. The actual voltage drop is based on load, and input voltage. If you going to stick with 12v, then get solid state IC regulators that put out a fixed 6volts regardless of input voltage.

For the gauges, a 6v voltage regulator vs a 6v voltage reducer. Plenty of prebuilt ones on eBay.

Usually, motors use the ceramic reducers, as they can handle higher loads.

If you get a universal 12v coil that has the ballast resistor built in, then you can loose the external ballast resistor and make it look more stock.

Just my opinion; I appreciate the budget restraints but unless you plan on adding A/C at some point I believe the best though longer-term decision is to return the car to a 6-volt system which can be as reliable as any 12-volt system with proper cabling, etc. As to this "12-volt headlights are brighter" stuff, it's not necessarily true; a 50 candlepower 6-volt headlight beam is brighter than a lesser candlepower 12-volt beam, it's a matter of selection of bulbs, condition of reflectors, adequate wiring size and good grounds and not simply voltage.

Thanks Howard, I'm going to read over that many times. sometimes it takes a bit for me to understand.



Kev, I had thought about the coil as well. mostly because the resistor is ugly and also the post that the resistor wire wraps around is broken (typical). I have a pertronix coil sitting on the shelf that is internal, just need to look up the part number to make sure it is 1.5 and not 3. it was for my 70 dart and I didn't use it. I think it is a #40011 which is 1.5ohm. peel the sticker of and nobody will know what it is. hmmmmmm I wonder if I can use it with points though....I think it said not to. can't remember have to read the booklet that came with it. I do plan to chunk the vol-ta-drop. the input voltage was 12.5 and the output was 12.3 on the left 6v post and 0 on the right 6v post. its busted, but hopefully didn't fry the gas gauge. I'm going to use those runtz like Howard suggested and I don't need the heater motor...it's Texas.



Owen, it would take a large amount of money to convert her back to 6v at this point. I'm guessing easily 1000-2000. I really just need to get her running reliably so I can go back to work on the 55. 12v is the quickest and cheapest. heck I haven't even looked over all the mechanicals even though she does run and drive.

6v generator $200??
rebuild generator $50-100??
new 6v wiring harness that is not chopped up. $750
pulleys changed back $$$???
voltage regulator if it doesn't work $200 or so maybe??
6v battery 150-200??

...you get the picture. 1000-2000 easy. and I wont have the option of the dual electric fans on the front in this Texas heat. and the electric fuel pump option either, unless I got a 6v electric pump I suppose. still I can get a 12v off the shelf at autozone.

I know you like original and I do to, but this is more of a driving project so we can have fun with it until a day I can restore it properly. she isn't going anywhere. I'll never sell it unless God says otherwise. as always I appreciate your input. Thanks very much!

Hank, I like the feature where the starter can be operated with the key in the OFF position. This is handy when starting the 115C after it has been sitting for a couple of weeks. I prime the engine - oil and fuel - by turning the engine over a few times, in 5-second bursts, until I see oil pressure on the gauge. Then, turn the key to ON; pump the accelerator pedal a couple of times to set the choke and squirt some gas into the engine; and hit the starter button. It usually starts right up. Something to consider if you do not want to start a dry engine. Something to consider.

(o{}o)

that is an excellent point JW. we actually did that to start the car after it sat for 2 years. we pulled the coil wire, which I now know wasn't necessary if I had just left the key off.

I could hear the motor was sluggish and then started to turn more freely after a few cranks as the oil got all over everything again.

thanks man.

is the choke that T knob on the dash....mine doesn't seem to do anything but maybe pull on the gas pedal I think. it felt like it did anyways. the carb is a carter wdo with thermostatic choke instead of the EE14

Quote:

The "T" knob is the manual throttle control. If it moves the carb linkage, then it is working. My 115C has a Stromberg carb with an electric choke. Trouble free for 10 years, so far.

(o{}o)

Hi cli55er,
The picture with the manifold heat riser weight.
The small L with petcock, originally a fuel drain to help prevent flooding, the L stays then( index# 5.0934 in Packard parts list 1935-1941).

Looks like a real nice 138CD.
Packard 385

Thanks JW, I was wondering what that T stood for. I thought I felt it pulling on the gas pedal when I had my foot on it.

I've been reading through the service counselors, but have not made it to the shop manual and I have no owners manual. I should probably look to see what is on this site literature wise. I have print copies that came with the car.

Thanks Packard 385, I was still wondering about that. can't get the petcock to budge. wanted to see if anything came out. lol. I'll be sure to look up where you pointed in the parts book.

I'm enjoying all of this great information guys. I'd be lost without my Packard buddies!

finally read through a bit of the shop manual and the six cylinder version of the owner's manual. surprised there is no 8 cylinder owners manual on the site.

I bought 10w30 to change the oil and bought some Lucas oil because she smokes on start up. should help with oil leak down from sitting as well. I swear by Lucas oil.

trans oil, I'll go with the 75w-140 since its mostly summer in Texas. going to use that in the rear end as well. I see it says "special" oil for the rear diff...but surely it can't be that special and the 140 will work.

water pump...noticed it said there are two oilers....but all I saw was one grease-sert. I used grease with a grease gun...was that wrong? didn't seem to hurt anything.

noticed my clutch throw out arm cover is missing as well and the engine stabilizer on the back of the trans.

another nuisance was the map light would turn on with the gauge lights. is that the correct operation? switch left would turn on gauge lights and map light. switch middle is off and switch right was overhead light. I found the map light turning on with the gauge lights to be intrusive in my dark garage, so I just unplugged it for now. seems like the map light should be wired on the overhead light side of the switch. or maybe I'm supposed to have door switches that control the overhead lights??? I see no door switches on the car.


I unhooked all of the wiring that cause me concern and wasn't immediately necessary for the car to run. and I made sure wire ends were not exposed. I did run into a problem where the headlights were shorting out on the second pull. come to find out the windshield wiper pull linkage was touching the headlight switch connection, thus grounding it out. put a rubber hose over the linkage and zip tied it out of the way. no fuses blew....another reason I'm going to get that 12v universal harness.

I touched the wiper linkage to move it and I about came unglued from the heat! glad I figured that out and fixed it.

Howard, can you tell me where you took that snip of the wiring diagram in your about post? I looked at 36/37/38 and they don't seem to look the same.
service counselor vol. 10 no. 1 found it

BigKev...1939 wiring diagram told me I was forbidden. access permissions issue maybe?