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« 1 (2) 3 4 »

Re: Hose diagram assembly
#11
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HH56
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Quote:

Moms 54 wrote:
Yes the sender for temp light.
Thanks again..

Just to be sure we're on the same page, a stock 54 should have a temp gauge, not a light. The red lights are for battery and oil and gauges are used for temp and fuel. That sender will not work if someone has added a temp light.

Posted on: 2016/10/24 8:54
Howard
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Re: Hose diagram assembly
#12
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Moms 54
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Oops temp gauge.

Posted on: 2016/10/24 12:06
The best are yet to roll
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Re: Hose diagram assembly
#13
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Moms 54
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I found the temperature sender TS-6464 at car quest in town in stock $15 and some change.

I had went to go flush out the under seat heater core and it leaked inside the car lucky it was only vinegar and distilled water so I ended up by passing it and going from the top heater box to the pump for now so I'm hoping within the week I'll have her started.

Thanks again for the advise.

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Posted on: 2016/10/24 20:18
The best are yet to roll
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Re: Hose diagram assembly
#14
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Brenda
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I have a 53 Clipper and yesterday I noticed coolant coming from the bellow going to the heater in the photo you posted. My bellow is black, yours in the white bellow on the right on your photo. There was a lot of coolant inside it when I opened it. It doesn't look like a hose, just a bellow of sorts. Is it supposed to have coolant in it?

Posted on: 2017/4/30 18:05
1953 Packard Clipper Deluxe
She starts on the first crank in the morning and purrs like a kitten all day.
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Re: Hose diagram assembly
#15
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HH56
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I am having a little difficulty understanding exactly where you found your leak.

Borrowing the picture Moms 54 posted, If it is coming out the metal pipe under the heater box where a 5" diameter black duct hose connects (white arrow) it is coming from the heater core. If it is on the firewall to the side of the heater where the green arrow points it is coming from the thermostatic valve or a hose connection. If the valve is leaking it generally runs under the carpet and pools on the floor before dripping out a body mount bolt hole but it can drip down the firewall and run onto something close and drip on the engine side if a hose connection is bad. If it is somewhere else then maybe you could post a photo.

The valve leak is a common problem after all these years as it is just a rubber washer like thing that cracks but the core can have problems too. Valve comes off fairly easily but the core can be a bit more involved to remove if the heater has never been off the car before or had screws in the back of the case left off.

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Posted on: 2017/4/30 18:43
Howard
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Re: Hose diagram assembly
#16
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Brenda
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Yes, it is coming from the 5' diameter duct hose. It was full of coolant. What would be the remedy? and problem?

Posted on: 2017/4/30 23:10
1953 Packard Clipper Deluxe
She starts on the first crank in the morning and purrs like a kitten all day.
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Re: Hose diagram assembly
#17
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Brenda
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Would it help to just bypass the heater? by disconnecting some hoses? Would that stop the duct hose from filling up with coolant? I really don't want to lose my coolant on a daily basis.

Posted on: 2017/4/30 23:13
1953 Packard Clipper Deluxe
She starts on the first crank in the morning and purrs like a kitten all day.
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Re: Hose diagram assembly
#18
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Brenda
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someone said to remove the long hose from the heater and put it into the block after removing the hose that is now in the block. Would that solve the problem? I live in So. Cal and I don't care if I have a heater now. I'll fix it later but I there are more important things the car needs first. I just want to stop the leak. It's messy.

Posted on: 2017/4/30 23:21
1953 Packard Clipper Deluxe
She starts on the first crank in the morning and purrs like a kitten all day.
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Re: Hose diagram assembly
#19
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Don Shields
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You could run a hose between the nipple on top of the water pump to the nipple on the engine head between #5 and 6 spark plugs. That bypasses the heater entirely.

It sounds like the firewall-mounted heater core is leaking. Not a difficult repair for a radiator shop, but gaining access to the core is. The entire heater box may need to be removed from the firewall to get to the screws along the back side of the heater core top cover.

Posted on: 2017/4/30 23:44
Don Shields
1933 Eight Model 1002 Seven Passenger Sedan
1954 Convertible
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Re: Hose diagram assembly
#20
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HH56
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The heater core has most likely sprung a leak and will need to be repaired by a radiator shop.

For a workaround on your car you will have to drain some of the coolant -- probably a couple of gallons -- to get the level below the heater outlet on the top of the head. Referring to Moms 54 photo, remove the long hose at the top tube on the heater that is coming from the water pump. Remove the short hose from the port on the head that is going to the thermostatic valve. Reconnect the long hose in its place making sure that it is fastened somwhere and cannot fall on the exhaust manifold. Once the long hose is connected you can pour the coolant back in. That will completely bypass the heater so you can still drive the car without leaks. Once it is bypassed then you can take your time in deciding when to have it repaired.

To remove the heater core is probably going to be a bit of a project. It is most likely a stock unit never worked on so in all probability there will be two sheet metal screws in the heater box cover inaccessable in back next to the firewall. Feel or use a mirror to look for the screws. They are at the same level as the screws on the front and side. If present, those back screws will prevent the box cover from separating and removing the core so the entire heater will have to be removed from the firewall.

To remove, start with taking the cable controlling the vent/heat flapper off at the side of the round tube where the coolant is coming from. Once it and the hoses are off the entire unit is held by 4 studs with nuts that must be removed from inside the car. They are under the large black square box directly above the air vent grille where the heater/defrost flapper is located. That box is held by some bent over tangs and I think maybe a screw. There is another cable which operates the heat/defrost flapper and may need to remove to allow it to come off. Once it is off you will see the nuts but if I remember correctly one is kind of a pain to get a wrench onto.

There are some photos of the heater installation in the accessories section of the service manual. When you have it fixed and go to replacing the heater on the firewall I suggest leaving the two back screws off so if there is a need to remove the core again you can just remove the side and front screws and lift the cover off.

Posted on: 2017/4/30 23:46
Howard
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