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Just found a set of the good repair parts on ebay. Check it out 201896878527.

Well apparently the symptom of not being able to lock my '48 driver's door was just a fore warning. The door latch no longer works. Neither the inside or outside handle will un-latch the door. I now have a 3 door sedan . . . didn't the Suburban (GM) have a three door model?
The outside handle seems to have a lot of lost motion, which leads me to believe that the failure mode may be identical to that documented by BDeB in post #13 of this thread. Since this is the first time I ever had a door latch fail I purchased a '48 NOS passenger's door latch to help me understand the inner workings of these things. I somewhat agree with 8deluxe comment, 'Even with the panel off I can't figure out how to release the clog' . . . I've got a latch in my hand and still can't figure out if there is a way to release the 'pawls' with the latch installed in the door. Has 8deluxe reported any progress on opening the door on the '48 club sedan? For those that are viewing, post #11 from HH56 shows the latch as you might see it installed in the door, while post #13 from BDeB shows the 'pawls' after a cover plate has been removed. If that cover could be removed while the latch is in the door a screw driver could be used to rotate the 'pawls'.

I'm currently weighing the options of;

A. Removal of the front seat, steering wheel, and door panel and then trying to reach something (TBD) in the latch that will allow me to open the door. Clearly if the cover plate could be modified access to the 'pawls' that would do it.
B. All of option A (to remove one screw), plus, drill the 'B' pillar to gain access the heads of the remaining 4 screws that hold the latch into the door, rotate screws, and push the latch into the door approximately ? inch to disengage the 'gear tooth'.
C. Drill the 'B' pillar to gain access to the 4 screws that hold the striker to the door pillar, and defeat those screws.


To say the least I'm in the market for a working version of a '48 driver's side door latch, and a bunch of good ideas.

dp

Even removing the seat I wonder if it will be possible to remove the window molding and door panel without damage. I believe they are well recessed behind the windlace.

I don't have an answer other than trying to unscrew the door from the hinges and see if the front edge will push out and forward past the fender enough to let the latch slide forward away from the striker. Keeping the door from falling and not scratching the paint will be a challenge if that would even work.

You might be able to use a pneumatic cold chisel to remove the plate and guts to get the door open but if the latch isn't kaput now it sure would be after that process.

IMO, drilling the B pillar would be a last resort. For one you would have holes to fill and two, it is going to be extremely difficult to drill the screws holding the striker without destroying the capture plate or maybe even the striker. If you try drilling past the striker to the screws holding the latch itself, lining the holes up blind will be quite the challenge.

You have probably already thought of this, but depending on how good your door rubber might be, it could put the opening mechanism under tension, so having someone to push in on door while you try to release might be helpful

Last resort indeed.

Nothing will happen until I have a serviceable latch in-hand.

I'm currently making a drilling template patterned from the passenger's side. If plan B or C is the only option I would make a magnetically attached drilling guide along with extra long bushings to improve my aim . . . I will also need to buy 'extra long' drill bits since the depth of the 'B' pillar in that location is at least 3 + inches.

To allow the latch to fall into the door I will need to remove the door panel to get to the fifth screw, so the interior will need to come out no matter what. Is long as the seat and door panel is off option A will still be the prime way to go. Perhaps a hole in the cover and a special tool to move the 'pawls'.

I looked at the front door hinges. The heads are covered when the door is closed . . . are you suggesting drilling the door hinge screws from the fender side?

dp

Steve . . . right now the door is a bit on the loose side, that is not tight against the 'rubber'. When I tug it moves a little. The failure may have set a 'new' location for the 'gear' to reside . . . something that you would normally adjust with the striker.

dp

Quote:
No. If it is possible to remove the door panel with the door in the opening then once the door panel is off the door, hinge screws should be able to be accessed to loosen the hinge on the door side.

On the 47 it would be easier because those hinges are exposed but with the thicker 48 doors the hinges are more centered and bolts are accessed thru small openings.

What I was wondering is if the hinge screws were removed, would that allow the flat hinge strap to cock and slide in the front edge openings so the door edge could push out past the fender and then could the entire door slide forward approx 1/2 inch to let the latch be free of the striker. Door couldn't be totally removed without undoing the door check but I was thinking the way the door is constructed it might be able to move a tiny bit out and forward just to unmesh the wheel from the striker. Once door could open a tiny bit then reattach the screws. It would take a helper though and some protection for the paint

Of course if the door panel can't be removed or if the doors got the early weld treatment between the hinge strap and door edge to correct sagging doors then moving the door would not be possible. Drilling the pillar just seems like such an extreme measure that I would try other things first.

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The options of drilling through the B pillar will be very destructive and not easy.
Attached photos are of a B pillar that was saved from a parts car with the latch assembly set in the closed door position.
Location of the latch screws has been marked on the front door side and it can be seen that drilling the lower ones will interfere with the bend in the pillar sheet metal.
There is also an internal extra layer of sheet metal on the front side of the pillar which is visible in the photo showing the inside of the pillar with a piece cut out.

Best option looks like it will be the fist one with some creative destruction of the door latch.

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Some time in the past I posted what should work. Today I took a picture of the lock on my 48 woodie, If I had the skills to mark the spot I would- if you look at the picture you can see a flat area about 3/8s by 1/2 right in the corner of the lock. Use a long screw driver or rod and depress the metal tab- It will release the wheel. If that does not work sacrifice the window and window channel and use a long enough tool to beat the lock apart till you can get to the wheel.

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For a short while I promise to refrain from discussions that involve drilling, beating, and sacrificing.

HH56 thanks for your photos and insight on the door hinge details. I checked the passenger's door and could find no evidence of the weld to address 'the sagging door' difficulty. I've also noted that your photo containing the mechanic's arm (figure 25 of the service manual) suggest that there is one fastener per hinge. If there is only one fastener does that also suggest a pocket or socket that the blade of the hinge slides into? If so would that limit the amount of 'in/out' motion? The manual suggests that the door is adjusted fore and aft at this location, and the 'A' pillar location is for the remainder. It would appear that if this was a '47 problem I would be only 6 bolts and a small strap away from success.

BDeb thankyou of your input on the 'B' pillar details. I agree that drilling the pillar to access the 4 latch mounting screws would be quite a challenge using hand held tools . . . that upper outboard screw is scary. What would your opinion be on going after the 'striker' screws after the pillar interior trim was removed? Is the generous rectangular hole a previous modification to access striker 'captive' nuts?

Dell thanks for your input, your photo has my full attention. Could you provide some more details on what view this photo represents? I've got a latch in my hand and can't quite figure out what I'm looking at.

Thank you all for your input. Right now the idea about drilling the 'B' pillar to gain access to the 4 latch mounting screws is 'off the table'.

Pending a bit more detail from Dell, my thoughts for plan A are;
? Remove interior trim and panel.
? Loosen hinge bolts and replace with much longer items.
? Attempt to 'disengage' striker by moving the door as far forward and as far outboard as it can travel.

Lots of time will be spent addressing protection of the car's finish, and keeping the door from getting away from me.

Now if plan A does not work would defeating the striker bolt be the next logical step?

Also, if there is a viewer that has some firsthand experience with '48 door hinges the question is the fit of the hinge 'blade' into the sheet metal of the door. The question would be how much 'in/out', not 'fore/aft' motion should be expected with the bolt replaced by a stud or much longer bolt?

dp