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Re: 1956 Clipper Deluxe
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HH56
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It would be interesting to know exactly what Packard supplied in the way of components and conversion kits for those doing RHD cars and what the importer or agent had to supply or build locally. Wonder if there was any standard. If we were really lucky one of the people that managed to collect some of the internal engineering or sales literature might have something.

Using a push pull switch for the heater seems odd. If it was installed by the importer during the conversion I wonder why they could not have used the stock switch and its location in the housing next to the control knobs -- unless the dash panel behind the housing has some sort of clearance issue. In the photo showing the Ultra light socket position the heater switches are the two long cylindrical objects with a rounded box at the end. Those are below and to either side of the light and adjacent to the square opening where the steering column comes thru. Switches go in the round holes at either side of the chrome housing that holds the Ultra quadrant and heater/vent knob lever assys.

The factory manual override switch for the TL is normally a push pull switch mounted vertically next to the on/off switch but does have a regular knob on it. If yours is rotary it could also have been something done by a previous owner. Many types of owner installs have been done in the US. Some with creative wiring, and those in worst cases have bypassed the limit switches with catastrophic results. The factory wiring places the manual switch parallel to the regular control switch and connects at it's output so the rest of the components after the control switch remain in the circuit. Unless it is a special switch sourced locally to provide the same functions as the factory switch, it most likely will not have the extra contacts that automatically disconnects power to the control switch when manual is in operation. That automatic disconnect action prevents the two switches from trying to fight each other for control and often blowing a fuse in the process. Without the disconnect function you must remember to turn the regular on/off switch to the off position before using the override. Here is the factory install instructions for the manual override showing the switch and wiring.

For the manual valve controlling the flow of hot water the conversion went back to old school. Until 48 when Packard introduced their first integrated heater that used an operator controlled thermostatic valve, there was a valve on the engine the driver needed to open in fall and close in spring to allow water flow.

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Posted on: 2020/8/23 8:46
Howard
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Re: 1956 Clipper Deluxe
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Leeedy
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Quote:

b.wilson wrote:
Hello Don

Yes, if you have one of those dash pads it would make sense to put it on.

I began thinking about this only when I saw the parts book illustration. I had already contemplated covering the metal dash with something else, but that would be the perfect answer if I can find one of the pads.

Howard put me on to Just Dashes. They have restored an earlier (1955) pad, but cannot make repros. Still not sure how I'd get one shipped here. It looks pretty bulky. There is a school of thought that the 1956 pad had the stitched edge, but I'd be happy with either style.

Regards

Brian


A factory-installed padded dash was optional at extra cost on your Clipper. And for the record, 1955 padded dash covers had no seam. 1956 padded dash covers indeed had a sewn seam over the crest (rolled apex) of the pad.

As for re-padding one... we did dozens of them back in the 1970s at the shop. No complicated steps or materials needed. Just the following:

? professional heat gun (hair dryer can work in most instances)

? seat-quality trimmer's foam rubber in a rectangular strip.

? Remove the inner windshield base trim and side trim and go to work.

? Do this work in warm temps-70s (F) or above.

? Check for how flexible the covering is once you get trim removed. IF hard, warm it to flexibility with heat gun. DO NOT PULL BACK HARD if cold or if heat gun does not make flexible. If the cover remains hard and brittle at this point it is too far gone to save. However, MOST covers (including ones rippled like breakfast bacon) can be saved, flexed back for work and re-padded.

? Most old foam has either turned to stuff that looks like sand, Rice Krispies or custard goo. One you have your cover pulled back, clean this old decayed foam and its remnants out.

? Get a nice strip of trimmer's foam, appropriately thick and able to wrap over the rolled edge of the metal (double or dual-density is not necessary). Trim to fit and insert carefully on metal instrument panel, using care to roll at rearward roll of the metal. It is feasible to use trimmer's yellow spay contact glue (stuff we used to call "Gorilla snot") but it is not really necessary if done right.

? Once stuffed, gently heat and coax the covering back into place. Work out ripples and waves. Remember, this old vinyl tends to stiffen in whatever position it is in so don't expect it to be extremely pliable, even when stuffed with new foam. However, if you used decent foam in an appropriate shape the outer covering will usually happily follow it. Getting the proper appearance is the main thing here.

Finally, yes, it IS possible to transfer padded dash coverings from one dash to another simply by disassembling the metal cap from the instrument panel and then removing the padded section with covering.

And yes, it is even possible to change or renew coloring on padded dash skins. They CAN be spray-dyed (with vinyl dye) and we did several of them in SoCal back in the 1970s.

Posted on: 2020/8/23 10:21
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Re: 1956 Clipper Deluxe
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Brian Wilson
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Guys thanks for all that. Very helpful, as usual.

I don't know exactly how the manual TL ride height control has been wired, but it seems to work fine and coexists happily with the on/off switch which I leave off when the car is parked for any length of time. I still can't get over how well the TL system works. Certainly a match for any modern car, including those with switchable modes.

Howard, I'm still discovering how the RHD cars were shipped from the factory. The Studebaker museum has no build sheets for the export cars from 1956, so I'm still operating in the dark. Regarding the push/pull heater fan control under the dash, I imagine this switch came with the Smiths heater kit which was fitted here new. It's not much like the original switches in your pic and imagine it would not readily fit in their place so guess they just put it somewhere handy. Only took six months and your message for me to find it! Not that I really need a heater here, but a demister is quite handy on occasion.

I have seen dashes with 1956 style pads advertised in the US, but getting something that size here is a major exercise. Leeedy, I'll use your description to make up and attach one here. My dash is currently painted bare metal with a few additional screw holes. I'd rather cover it with a pad than repair and repaint it. Sounds like the key is to get it to fit neatly under the windscreen surround, which is easily removed.

I'm about to fit a bulb to the lamp socket for the Ultramatic gear indicator. Hopefully it will work then.

Cheers

Brian

Posted on: 2020/8/23 19:46
1941 120 Club Coupe (SOLD)
1956 Clipper Deluxe (RHD and auto) - for the wife, or so I told her!
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Re: 1956 Clipper Deluxe
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Brian Wilson
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Well, all was revealed by my (mature) auto electrician.

The problem with the front right park light/turn indicator was a disintegrated lamp socket which had resulted in an internal short between the two circuits. My electrical wizard had a rebuild kit gathering dust on the shelf for precisely this purpose. Don't ask. But it's fixed and works a treat.

Similarly, the dash lights up like a Christmas tree now, with all new LED replacement bulbs. The Ultramatic selector quadrant needed a new lamp socket, but also works now. I was treated to a commentary on how long it took to achieve this transformation consuming no less than nine globes, and also how many years it took off my electrician's life ferreting around behind the dash.

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Posted on: 2020/8/25 1:40
1941 120 Club Coupe (SOLD)
1956 Clipper Deluxe (RHD and auto) - for the wife, or so I told her!
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Re: 1956 Clipper Deluxe
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HH56
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Quote:
I was treated to a commentary on how long it took to achieve this transformation consuming no less than nine globes, and also how many years it took off my electrician's life ferreting around behind the dash.

I have no idea how the congestion behind a RHD dash compares to that of a LHD but if your electrician ever has the opportunity to work on a LHD 55-6 with a factory AC evaporator box stuffed under the dash you can triple the years off his life. If work is needed on some components any bystander will probably be treated to many of the old standby words not well suited for use around polite company as well as learn entirely new ones specially made up for the occasion.

Posted on: 2020/8/25 8:57
Howard
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Re: 1956 Clipper Deluxe
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Ross
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If an AC car comes in that needs under dash work, particularly something with the speedometer, I simply decline the job. Life is too short to waste on such projects.

Posted on: 2020/8/25 11:48
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Re: 1956 Clipper Deluxe
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Brian Wilson
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Well, my car does not have (or really need) AC, but the general point about the clutter behind the dash on my 56 Clipper is nevertheless correct. Hence my decision to have somebody else change the instrument lamps, and fit a new one to the auto indicator quadrant. Guess he won't be so quick to accept the job next time!

The fact I was able to find someone willing/able to do this was perhaps a minor miracle.

I'm still waiting for the guy who will tidy up the paintwork to clear enough space (and possibly enlarge his entry door) to recover from a deluge of virus-induced work. In the meantime, decided to turn my attention to the original locally-produced AWA Pressmatic AM radio fitted to the car, but not currently operating. No luck finding someone to wrestle with this thing in the car. Only advice I can get is remove all the components and bring to them for testing/overhaul.

The car is fitted with a small JVC AM/FM/multimedia player with Bluetooth which pairs nicely with my iPhone to play tunes on the move. This works just fine, but the dial on the old radio shows a number of AM stations which still exist - don't ask me why - and I'd like to have it working. This is where the fun starts....

It's a pushbutton valve radio, so the amplifier section is several times the size of the tuner head visible in the dash. I've decided to summon up whatever remains of my valve radio knowledge to look at this myself (no choice). The amplifier enclosure looks to be in pretty good shape externally and is bolted up to a frame under the left hand side of the dash. It also appears to have an original braided power lead still attached to it, but the speaker wires have been cut. The display light on the tuning head comes on when the volume button is turned, so it's getting some sort of power. I'll have to remove the glove compartment liner to get at the tuning head, which is directly above that.

It looks like there is a single (newish) speaker fitted in an enclosure next to the amplifier box. It says Pioneer on the label, so I dare say is a more recent fitment. Maybe (hopefully) that means the radio was working reasonably recently. ie in the last twenty years or so.

I assume the aerial, which is mounted on the front guard, is no longer attached.

I've searched everywhere for wiring diagrams or installation instructions for this thing, but no joy. I imagine this is not too different to the valve radios fitted in the US to left hand drive cars around the same time. Anybody on this site have experience with these or any tips before I dive in ?

Brian

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Posted on: 2020/9/1 4:07
1941 120 Club Coupe (SOLD)
1956 Clipper Deluxe (RHD and auto) - for the wife, or so I told her!
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Re: 1956 Clipper Deluxe
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Brian Wilson
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Hello Howard

Thanks for all that. I have not had any problems in practice with the manual switch as installed. It bears no resemblance to the accessory switch in the factory document. It is quite a large three position rotary switch labelled "UP", "DOWN" and "NORMAL". As a precaution, I normally turn off the regular on/off toggle switch before I leave the car sitting or use the manual switch but I will check how the manual switch is wired to see if this is really necessary.

Yes, I would say that the manual TL switch was fitted sometime after the car was delivered. Hopefully, whoever did it had access to the wiring diagram provided by the factory but presumably not the exact type of switch described there. The manual control is very useful in practice because the car sits low and has a long overhang at the rear, making it very prone to scraping on quite modest driveways etc unless the rear can be raised.

Thanks again

Brian

Posted on: 2020/9/1 5:51
1941 120 Club Coupe (SOLD)
1956 Clipper Deluxe (RHD and auto) - for the wife, or so I told her!
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Re: 1956 Clipper Deluxe
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HH56
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You might see if you can find any numbers on the radio and then check the radio museum to see if it is one of the earlier models for which they might have some literature.https://www.radiomuseum.org/m/amalgamate_aus_en_1.html

Posted on: 2020/9/1 8:39
Howard
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Re: 1956 Clipper Deluxe
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Brian Wilson
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Thanks Howard

How on earth did you know that?

The radio museum does have spec sheets for most of the old AWA models. I will have to get the amp out to see what model it is. They usually have a label on the amp, but it will be on the top so I can't see it in situ.

There's plenty of stuff about for the transistor version of these, which appeared a few years later. But the valve versions are much less common and model numbering was a black art!

Cheers

Brian

Posted on: 2020/9/1 17:02
1941 120 Club Coupe (SOLD)
1956 Clipper Deluxe (RHD and auto) - for the wife, or so I told her!
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