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Today, I propped the firewall pad in place and went to the engine side of the firewall with a can of white spray paint and marked all the required holes.

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Pulling more project out and getting nothing done.

Disassembled the heater core unit and started media blasting parts of it.

I also pulled the dash out of the attic.
I got this blue one a few years ago because the original was not worth savings due to rust. This one came from a Clipper. I'll need to swap the face plate/screen from silver to gold. Is the gold on my original screen tarnished or does it have to be re-plated? It's not like it wore off. I am hoping it's just tarnished but thats not how my luck runs.

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I believe the screen is anodized aluminum but on a 56 there is a subtle pattern which goes across the screen. Not sure if that pattern is present on a 55 since I believe the hole pattern is slightly different -- more slotted than round perforations. To get the pattern there must have been some process besides regular anodizing going on. Perhaps Leeedy would know for sure what the finish is and how it was done. Based on some damage I accidentally did to a piece of anodized aluminum and the pattern of the damage markings, I would almost guess someone started to clean or maybe accidentally wiped the screen with something that took the anodizing off.

The lower screen looks to have decent unfaded areas so you can see the color to try to match the original finish. Many years ago I took care of fading on my dash by using an airbrush to spray on a very thin coat of completely transparent amber glass stain. Finding the clear transparent stain today seems to be an issue though. What I used was a light brown shade of liquid that was completely clear without any signs of a pigment. Glass stain in the stores today seems to be somewhat cloudy or is advertised as semi transparent along with some other terms I am not familiar with.

Here is a photo of the 56 screen that shows the subtle pattern fairly well and an illustration from the 55 dealer album showing a different pattern. Granted, the dealer item might have some artistic license so might not be a true representation.

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Who rebuilds power steering pumps?
I am not usually afraid to di-sect something mechanical but looking at the drawing, I am not sure I want to di-sect this thing.

Lares Corp advertises in Hemmings quite often and may rebuild or exchange outright or if you contact them can direct you to one of their retail outlets.https://catalog.larescorp.com/select/Packard/Four-Hundred/1955/

Steward.

There is nothing to them. 0 rings ..seal. And a bearing..

One of the easiest to deal with. A kit from max has what you need.

I'm looking at the Kanters kit now.
Ordering from their site was never user friending now its even harder. I may just call them instead.

I was reading the service manual about the pump disassembly. The very first line says to "remove the reservoir cover" but it does not tell you how to do that. That top bolt in the image does not simply come out. There is a spring attached to it someplace. What am I missing?

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I got the top off the power steering pump. Just had to give it a tap or three. Now I see why it felt like it had a spring on the end of it. It did have a spring on the end of it. I also got the rest of the pump apart and I called Kanter's and ordered the rebuild kit.

I also ordered that rubber boot for the gas pedal from Kanter's. They were half the price. Steel rubber does not even have them listed but I all know they would not be cheap. I goofed up a couple weeks ago and ordered the VW boot for $3. The website did not give any measurements for that boot but I figured it could not be too much difference. That boot turned out to be the size of a silver dollar and maybe a 1/4 inch thick. So, don’t do what I did.

I put the whole car up on these crib stands today so I can get under there and tighten down the body mounts. I will never use jack stands again. Fortunately I already had the scrap wood to make them. Have you seen the cost of lumber lately. I saw a 15/32 plyboard (4x8) for $56 each.

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Put match marks on the rotor. For up.. So they go back the same way.

Once key for rotor is out .. The shaft taps out.


A magnet helps pull them up.


Under the rotor is the seal.

I’m alive. Need to remember my firewall pad drama though. Worked hard with them for the reproduction plenum. Months of back and forth and begging.

Pump is stupid easy to rebuild. Did more then one myself. One had several hundred miles on it with no problems. Don’t think I even marked the gears before taking out. But maybe should.

This weekend is clay bar and wax of 37 for keels and wheels. Won’t win anything... going for the fun. 55 is on top of 4 post waiting on wiring that is in box. House renovation has my attention for last 2 years.


Looks like my sig is messed up since new site went live.

70 dart is next before my dad dies. 417 stroker and twin turbo. Just need a winning lotto ticket.