Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Ok, I know this should be listed somewhere but I'm tired of looking. can anyone tell me what the PSI and GPH on electric fuel pump should be on a 1952 200 deluxe with a 327ci and two-barrel carb! It is converted to 12v!
Thanks,
Mike

The flow and pressure spec is given in some years but not all. IMO, flow amount is not that useful since Packard usually doesn't provide an engine RPM to test for the amount specified. I think pressure is more important for an electric pump since as long as a pump has a decent output the float will regulate the amount needed and admitted to the carb as long as the pressure is not so high as to overpower the valve.

Here is 52 info from the Nov 15, 1951 Service Counselor.

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On my former 1953 Clipper Deluxe which had a full-time electric diaphragm pump mounted near the tank on the frame, I had an adjustable regulator set at 2.5 which was more than enough. By “full-time”, I mean that it came on automatically when needed but there was also the mechanical pump on the engine that did most of the work so the electric one ran mainly when I first turned the key.

Packard deviated from prior practice when they gave the delivery volume specification for the Carter pump used on the V8 engines. The engineering drawing specifies:

20 gallons per hour at 1950 camshaft rpm and a head of 16".

Let's see: 2 pints per quart, 4 quarts per gallon translates to (20 * 8)/60 = 2 2/3 pints per minute. Modern car minimums are 2 pints per minute. Or fuel consumption capacity of 4 mpg. So that 20 gallon Packard specification seems reasonable although medium duty trucks with 25,000 pounds ballast for testing turn in 2.4 mpg at 25 mph; the only motor vehicles I know of that burn more gas than the Cadillac V-16.

That pint every 45 seconds works out to 10 gallons per hour which seems a little low. Maybe that is at idle speed.

Just match the specs for the mechanical pump. I think they were all pretty much the same for those years - same engines.
I'd have to look it up, you can too.

ps: I just went through this for the Cadillac, due to a string of defective mechanical pumps. It's a 365 3x2 carbs, so different flow, and there was only one pump I found that could both meet the pressure limits and the flow(internally regulated). All the others are made for FI, and require a pressure regulator for carbs, so take that into consideration of your decision and where to locate. It's also a lot noisier than I expected.

ok so I put in an electric fuel pump. car ran great until it warmed up then it dies, if I wait 5 min it will start and run for a couple hundred feet and die again. gas appears to be bubbling inside the filter just ahead of the carburetor, Vapor Lock? also I'm checking out the gas. has anyone else had this problem? temp is about 175f, but sure seems hot! Gas is regular unleaded probably with 10% ethanol. there is no radiator leeks, timing is good although idle is also effected when hot.
I have a 160f thermostat. I'm thinking the gas is percolating in the float bowl
is there a after market spacer for the standard 2bl carter 784S carb? or should I just run special gas?
mike

Do you have a black fiber or phenolic piece about 3/8" think between the carb and intake manifold? I believe the fiber insulator pieces were standard on all carbs but not the sheet metal heat shields that went over the exhaust manifold to keep the hot air away from the carb. Those seem to have only been standard on the larger engines. A few have fabricated their own heat shields on cars that did not come factory equipped and there seems to have been varying results. The gas today is much more volatile than the old stuff and it does seem to percolate rather easily.

Another thing that makes a difference is the sheet metal heat shield that goes between the fuel pump and manifold. Those are frequently removed and not replaced when fuel pumps are changed. This lets the hot manifold cook the fuel pump.

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A fuel problem would be indicated if pumping the throttle with the air cleaner removed shows no gas spraying out of the accelerator pump. Or priming gets the motor running. Or take a Bernzomatic and dump propane down the carburetor.

If the ignition is working then a compression test is in order. Captain Baldridge's 42 160 7 passenger lost compression and would only run with an oxygen feed down the carburetor.

That ignition switch is load carrying so imagine if it heated up after a while.

Thanks for the response! since I blocked off the old fuel pump and ran the main line well away from the block, I don't think it's the inlet side of the fuel filter that is vaporizing! I don't know if the manifold spacer is phenolic or not. I'll post pictures of what I have.
I've drained the gas out and will try non ethanol gas. maybe with a lead additive. Just got to work my way through it.