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I looked at the video. The timing marks on my balancer are way off. Sometimes as balancers get older the timing marks can move do to the rubber mounting. I have had this happen on other cars also. So that method will not work for me. Also it starts fairly easy cold.Timing by vacuum may be the only other way unless I get the balancer rebuilt.

One way to work around that problem is to find a 40 engine with the timing marks on the flywheel and count the number of teeth per degree. Then pull the starter and transfer that to the later flywheel and set the static timing that way. Of course, you would need to buy a borescope from Harbor Freight to find TDC and move the flywheel to correct timing.

I found that base timing was very accurate using this method.

There's the old degree wheel method. I read about that once - somewhere.

I was working on the car changing timing also noticed the rotor in the distributor had some play in it so i replaced that. I checked the fuel pump pressure and it was only 2 1/2 lbs according to my motors manual it should be 4-5 lbs. So i ordered a fuel pump rebuild kit.

After 1 of the rides I took in the car I noticed a puddle of oil under the transmission. After checking it out I realized that an old repair to the top cover was leaking. Im going to have to locate another cover for the top of the trans with shifter forks. Here is a picture before i had the trans rebuilt you can see where it was leaking before.

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Re the OD cable repair shown on page 3, the two piece shaft collar is available in various sizes and metals from McMaster-Carr Since it was going to be painted I used an ordinary steel split collar without keyway but aluminum would also work.

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Ok thanks hh56

I hope you didn’t make the mistake I did. After fixing my detent, I replaced the lid with the air breather hex screw in another position than the rear passenger side (right) position. In other positions it may spit up oil instead of allowing air to pass through.

Someone asked me for pictures of the top lid to the trans and took look for part numbers. I could not find any numbers but I did take a few pictures. Also on the right front side I found the letter A dont know if that means anything. Also in 1 of the pictures of the top you can see wetness near the old repair. Also from the underside of the the trans top you can see where someone heated the aluminum and its almost a drip of aluminum. I did double check to see if the breather bolt was in the right rear and it is.

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You can use a lid from any of the postwar trannies. The have the advantage of an extra internal support for the interlock which makes shifting more positive. You will have to use your 1-R shifter yoke as it has the tab for disabling the overdrive while in reverse--unless you stumble across one for an R9, in which case, just bolt the lid on.