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and have you tried running the engine with the valve covers off (if it seems to be compression related? ) then you could see if the valves on those 2 cylenders are functioning normally.


I had a cold intermittant miss on my 56 pat and i found that someone had removed the valve covers in the past and left wads of gasket material (new and old) in the top which would clog the drainback holes causing the oil to fill to the point or getting past the valve stems.


dont rule out the basics, because the basics can bite your a$$ th hardest.

I looked back thru this thread to see if there was any detailed discussion on electric fuel pumps and could not find any, maybe it was in another thread. However, yesterday I installed an electric pump. Now I know from all of the comments that I have heard from other folks that I should mount it close to the gas tank. I will do this if I decide later to go permanent with this arrangement. For now it is mounted on the passenger side inside fender surface. It works fine except for a little leakage which will be fixed by cranking down on the fittings and making them tight. I will get to that as soon as it stops raining. One of the things mentioned about mounting the pump where I have it, is, that thru prolonged use the pump could burn out. For the time being it is sufficient to move the car in and out of the garage, and around the yard. And yes I know I said I was waiting for it to stop raining and said it will be in a garage. Right now the garage has 4 parking spaces in it and 3 are filled, so space is at a premium. Without manuvering the cars around there is not enough room to open the doors to do what I want to do right now. Also I have to move my wifes car back in order to get mine in, so again have to wait on the weather. I tried to use an old theme that has come up in other discussions, and that is no matter how big it is you should get it bigger. Well I could have gotten it the extra 2 feet that was an available upgrade in the model I bought, but that was an additional $2,500 and at the time I had to figure costs. Not that it matters now because I have no intention of rebuilding, but I opted for this unit even though it was easily $15,000 more than anything else simply because all of the others mounted their studs on top of the concrete slab with lag bolts whereas this unit dug post holes in the ground and mounted their metal studs into the ground and poured concrete in the holes and then poured the contrete slab. I was think of possible high winds and such. Oh well you pays your money and you takes your chances. If I ever get back on my feet I will enclose the back parking area with the less expensive alternative. However things are moving along at a better pace. I received the fabric from SMS, but the vinyl is in the process of being made and embossed, once that is done it should take no time at all to do the seats. I have the carpet and will be laying that in once I get the holes drilled for the seat brackets. The chrome is done except for the tail light housings, which they said they could not do, because they were too pitted. I am trying to find that outfit in Tallahassee that are reputed to be the best at filling in pits and chroming pot metel but they seem to have dropped off the face of the earth. More later as it gets done.

On another note, I am attachin a photo/jpeg of the back of the engine block of the spare engine that I have. Can anyone tell me how to interrpret the numbers and do any of them tell me the cubic inch displacement of the engine. In case anyone has a hard time making out the numbers, they are: 10 18 55 I am assuming that is the date of mfg.
440871 which I guess is part of the VIN
the intertwined C/L is confusing.


In addition I believe I mentioned the inability of the chrome shop to plate my tail-light housings. What does anyone think of this idea. I take the housings down and have them powder coated to either as close to silver as I can get or gloss black. Keep in mind this is just a temporary solution until I can get suitable housings already done or a decent set of cores that can be plated

Attach file:

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Al, first off, see your pm.

Second, yes, the 10/18/55 is the casting date. The "440871" is the casting part #, they're all different for the 320/352/374 engines. One of these days, if people would give me enough info when they have their engines out, I'd like to do what Dave (OwenDyneto) is doing and build a database of Packard engine casting numbers, since there isn't one. Your # should be for a 374.

The "CL" intertwined is a foundry mark, I believe. I've seen that mark on all kinds of different engines, from Hudson to Chrysler to Packard. I always refer to it as the "centerline" mark, as that's how I write "centerline" when I get in the mood to do some blueprint drawings. (another hobby of mine)

Did 374's only come withing certain casting numbers?????

Since it's a different casting than the rest of the V8's I'd have to say yes. I would imagine that the walls of the cylinders were modified to make room for the larger bore and still have decent wall thickness.

Look at Packard Service Technical Bulletin 55T-33, Dealer 24, July 14, 1955. The subject is service engines 55th series.......3 3/16" bore have casting numbers 446521...4" bore 440275.

also look at Service Counselor vol 29, no 5 May 1955, page 29 engine numbers.

I have not found reference to the 4 1/8" bore

Al, the casting number for a 374 is 440971 so you have a 374 block. There is usually a single number above the date of casting which I think is the number of the pattern. They probably had more than one pattern for engine blocks and marked them so they could narrow down a problem search.
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The plater in Tallahassee is "Potmetal Restoration" on Woodbine Circle. They did the potmetal on my 400 including the taillight housings. I believe they just grind the pit down to the surface level of the casting and do not fill the pits. Then they apply a graphite coating just like they do when bronzing baby shoes. They can copper plate that and after that, the nickel, polishing and chrome plating is easy. I believe that is how they can beautifully plate pieces that were badly pitted into show chrome without destroying the piece. As I said they did all the exterior diecast on the 400 that needed to be replated including door handles and side fender trim. They are not cheap but they are good.

Randy

Thanks for the info. As I re-examine the photo, it does look more like 971 instead of 871 as I stated. Now that I know what to look for I will try to look at the engine in the CLIPPERROD and see if I can make it out. Also I will try to contact the plater that you mentioned.

Al

GLOOM DISPAIR AND AGONY ON ME
DEEP DARK DEPRESSION, EXCESSIVE MISEREE
IF IT WERN'T BAD LUCK I'D HAVE NO LUCK AT ALL
GLOOM DISPAIR AND AGONY ON ME..............


Let the ride decide:

If I read your post correctly then the 440275 would be the 352 C.I. If so then that is what I have not a 374.

bummer.