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Re: GM transmission
#11
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PackardV8
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Specifications:
Consider a 6v + Earth car.
Let the + post be referenced as "Left side of battery". Let the - post be referenced the Right side of the battery.

Obtain a common 12v car battery. Modify the top of the battery to allow for a small auxillary post to stick out of the top of the battery such that the post is connected to the third cell from the LEFT side of the battery. This will give + ground 6v at the aux post.

The OEM 6v generator charging wire that feeds t0 the battery will have to be split into 2wo wires. A left wire and a rite wire labeled at random. The left wire and the right wire will be connected to a switch that allows for ONLY one of the left or rite battery charge wires to be aactive at any given time.

Feed the rite wire to the rite side of the battery and the left wire to the left side of the battery utilizing the auxillary post as a wire connexion for the left wire.
The - post of the battery as connexion for the rite wire.


DOWNSIDE: The switch will have to be manualy toggled every 3 or 4 minutes of operation. Maybe switch can be connected to somekind of timer or to the clutch pedal for toggleing or some other function of the car such as vacuum variation. Anything that would trip the switch from left side battery cahrge to rite side battery charge every 3 to 15 minutes or so.

Posted on: 2010/10/16 19:43
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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Re: GM transmission
#12
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PackardV8
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Wait a minute that won't work because ther is no 6volt ground for the rite side of the battery. It'll try to ground all the way thru the 12V battery.

Posted on: 2010/10/16 19:49
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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Re: GM transmission
#13
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Mike
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Quote:

HH56 wrote:
The problem you are going to have with welding the clutch is there still has got to be anther way to regulate evap temp. In days where clutch ran all the time it was at first by hot gas bypass using electrical or mechanical valves to short circuit the refrigerant. Some then went to suction throttling to "starve" the evaporator and then POA valves to keep internal pressure above a specific point. If you do not regulate the temperature to above freezing (most are kept approx 40-45 degrees), evaporator will freeze solid in short order. Unfortunately, some of those temp components are almost as scarce as 6v units and sometimes have their own issues
.


That's exactly the conclusion we came to, that you'd have to build it like they did with a hot gas bypass. Honestly, i saw one of those mint for a Cadillac go for $275, that part alone.

Quote:

After giving the 6-12 battery more thought, the problem of how the 12v total will charge with 6v is the issue. I believe the battery is normally configured as 2 6v cells in parallel and is charged via the normal methods. The solenoid (probably intermittent duty) places them in series when starting and then drops back to parallel. Not sure this would work for AC even if the solenoid were changed because it could never charge properly as long as AC were on.


the link above shows a 6-12v auto battery, that you don't need to go to a 12v charging system for and one that isn't auto that you need a 12v. My effort was to make it look as stock as possible, so that throws most of that out the window. At that point, put in a 12v system, get the 12v alternator in a generator case and put an older compressor like an A6 or something 50's and still look period correct, although that's a handful of $$$ for those parts.

Quote:
Changing to an 8v battery, if the Sanden does indeed pull and stay in at 7.5v would think the best suggestion other than changing to full 12. 8v batteries were very common in the day and not too many would raise more than half an eyebrow. Issue there is still how to drive the evaporator fan. The only 6v fan motors I can find are heater type and they are pretty small for the typical demand of AC.


Exactly the conclusions that we came to. With a smallish evaporator and a 6v blower fan separate on high and ducted in the box efficiently, i think you could get by. After all, they did back then right? But with a little extra $ you could have a better looking, and a way better operating, system. Same with the tranny swap. You can patch it up and keep it as a nice ultramatic, or you can go the extra mile and get great acceleration, 12v electric, and overdrive. Just depends what you want to sacrifice in the money and originality department.

Posted on: 2010/10/16 22:14
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Re: GM transmission
#14
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Eric Boyle
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Simple solution: Convert to 12V and be done with it.

Attach file:



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34_4cba999ea161b.jpg 400X358 px

Posted on: 2010/10/17 1:37
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Re: GM transmission
#15
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BigKev
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Agreed. You can drop in a 12v generator from a 55/56, and everything would pretty much lock stock under the hood unless someone studied the battery.

Posted on: 2010/10/17 2:59
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Re: GM transmission
#16
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Eric Boyle
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Absolutely. And for those who are contemplating converting a '48-'50 Packard that has the wide belt, or any Packard that has a Delco generator and the wider belt you can directly swap the pulley from the generator to the alternator/12V generator. Not sure about cars with the AutoLite system, but I'm thinking it uses the same diameter shaft as the Delco. All you need to do is swap the pulley, the spacer behind the pulley on the alternator stays on the alternator. (IF you go the alternator route) If someone needs a more precise instruction on how to do this shoot me a pm.

A 12V conversion is so easy to do, a Caveman could do it!

Resized Image

Posted on: 2010/10/17 14:49
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Re: GM transmission
#17
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Moms 54
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Food for thought Was the idea for running to a junk yard And finding something comparable out of a GM! To pull all A/C and 12v Charging system Parts/brackets, pulleys, fuse box or whatever after I take my measurements. There is plenty of room to mount without having a crappy look to her. I would probably mount the 12v battery and fuse box in the trunk before the rear axle, It can be done neatly. and still able to run other stuff out from the Fuse box. I just have to watch the positive ground feed for the 6v side.



There is a world of parts out there fairly cheap waiting to be used again, that are still in good shape! She is a Original car and been with me in the family for 45yrs not looking for any points just to be comfortable.

There is also this option;

http://www.classicautoair.com/under-dash-trunk-home.html



There is an elder man out here that has endless Packard's and a lot of other autos, he does do a lot of work on other cars from the car meet. He had rewired more than a few cars to 12v. He was telling me that the starter of a 6v system will handle 12v and probably more but to watch to long of cranking.

On his 56 Executive for the push button shift he had reworked it to work on a hydraulic shift that they use in aircraft, as he is a retired Air Force mechanic he is familiar with the operations, What a Ride!

Posted on: 2010/10/17 16:20
The best are yet to roll
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Re: GM transmission
#18
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Eric Boyle
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Another option on adding a/c and not wanting to buy an expensive under dash unit from the likes of VintageAire is to do what I'm doing on my '48 Packard.

I am going to use the stock heater box as well as parts from another Packard heater box (probably from my '56 parts car) and build my own HVAC unit. This way, I can use modified stock controls and modified enclosures as well as use more modern components like heater core, evaporator, etc. When I'm done it'll look like a stock fixture of the car and not look out of place, save for some in-dash a/c vents pirated from a Cessna CJ3....

Posted on: 2010/10/17 16:50
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Re: GM transmission
#19
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Moms 54
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Funny you mention that... I have been staring at that box thinking the same, I do have the factory a/c controls in the dash not knowing if there is any kind of 6v relays or switches sitting behind it. I haven't got that far into it to look yet!



48' is 6v did you convert already? for the 56 is 12v !

Posted on: 2010/10/17 17:08
The best are yet to roll
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Re: GM transmission
#20
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Eric Boyle
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Converted a long time ago. FYI, the '56 blower motor and wheel is a direct replacement for a '48.

I was thinking of using the original vent and heater controls to run it, using the stock cables. Once you get the door flappers in place to change from heat-a/c it shouldn't be too big of a deal. Plus, it'll look nice. There's no switches or relays behind the '48 stuff, it's all cables. I'm sure that the '54 is the same unless there's an electrical on/off-high/low switch.

Since the '48 box on the outside is a huge affair already I was thinking of modifying the '56 box and putting it on the inside under the dash. This unit would house the evaporator core as well as all the switching doors. Sounds complicated but it really isn't. The only electrical item needed on the dash would be an A/C on/off switch.

As for the '48 vent controls, from left to right they would now become: #1-Same, #2-Dash/floor, #3-Fresh air/recirculate(AKA Max A/C), #4-Same. You would be able to adjust the temperature by using #4, just open the heater core door a little bit to change the temp of the a/c if it gets too cold. Simple.

Attach file:



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34_4cbb795d2e41b.jpg 500X197 px

Posted on: 2010/10/17 17:36
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