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Re: Cu-Ni vs. Steel for brake lines
#11
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Rusty O\'Toole
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A tapered reamer works great for deburring brake lines.

Posted on: 2011/6/24 17:55
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Re: Cu-Ni vs. Steel for brake lines
#12
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Ken_P
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Quote:

Rusty O\'Toole wrote:
A tapered reamer works great for deburring brake lines.


Rusty, thanks for the tip. I didn't have a tapered reamer, but I did have a 14 degree metal deburring tool for my die grinder that looks a whole lot like a small tapered reamer. I put it in my cordless drill for better slow speed control and it worked great. A file on top, taper the inside, and a combination of bench grinder, die grinder, and emery paper for the outer chamfer and I made four this morning with no do-overs.

Posted on: 2011/6/25 11:07
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?start=0&topic_id=6550&order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: Cu-Ni vs. Steel for brake lines
#13
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Rusty O\'Toole
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Quote:

Ken P wrote:
Quote:

Rusty O\'Toole wrote:
A tapered reamer works great for deburring brake lines.


Rusty, thanks for the tip. I didn't have a tapered reamer, but I did have a 14 degree metal deburring tool for my die grinder that looks a whole lot like a small tapered reamer. I put it in my cordless drill for better slow speed control and it worked great. A file on top, taper the inside, and a combination of bench grinder, die grinder, and emery paper for the outer chamfer and I made four this morning with no do-overs.


How are you cutting the tubing? I use an ordinary tubing cutter with sharp wheels. It cuts the tube square but leaves a burr on the inside. I remove the burr with a hand held tapered reamer then flare it with my old flaring set I have been using since 1968.

Occasionally I will dress the end with a fine file if the tapered reamer leaves a burr.

Have never needed to chamfer the end or use a die grinder. If the end is square and the die will fit in it should be OK.

One thing I had to learn was not to press on the flare too hard. It is better if it is not quite finished, when you install it and tighten up the nut it will squash together and make a better seal.

Posted on: 2011/6/25 12:57
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Re: Cu-Ni vs. Steel for brake lines
#14
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Ken_P
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The instructions I was working from recommend a slight chamfer on the outside of the tubing as well. Not going too crazy, just enough to smooth things out. I used the same type of tubing cutter.

I think it worked out.

Attach file:



jpg  (96.90 KB)
2964_4e06936f9f272.jpg 765X1280 px

jpg  (127.26 KB)
2964_4e069386a7f91.jpg 765X1280 px

Posted on: 2011/6/25 21:03
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?start=0&topic_id=6550&order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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