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cold starting problems
#1
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scottie
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Hi all. This is a recurring problem for me. Anytime the outside temp gets around forty degrees or less, I have a hell of a time getting my girl to start. I've tried a magnetic heater on the oil pan, still a pain. Does anyone else have these problems? If so, what have you done to remedy this? I have replaced the plugs, wires, coil, points and condensor, and the battery as well. Getting frustrated! I'm considering installing a circulation heater in one of the heater hoses...

Posted on: 2011/11/10 14:05
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Re: cold starting problems
#2
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Owen_Dyneto
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I don't know what your problem is, but the things you are considering should never be necessary if the car is in proper tune. Both my current Packards and all the others I've owned in the past start easily in the depth of New Jersey winters, at temperatures of 0 Fahrenheit or thereabouts.

A couple of things pretty obvious that you've probably already considered. Too viscous a motor oil that puts a increased strain on the starter motor, decreasing the available current for good ignition. A related cause might be an under-performing starter motor - bad bushing/bearings, dirty or worn commutator, bad brushes. And lastly, when was the last time you cleaned the ground cable connection on the engine block? If a stick shift, do you crank with the clutch down to relieve the starter of having to rotate the transmission gears?

Posted on: 2011/11/10 14:11
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Re: cold starting problems
#3
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HH56
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You mentioned changing the battery but another cause might be battery -- Lower temperature and the resulting reduced efficiency would bring any problems out. A lower CCA capacity compared to stock, a marginal cell or too small a cable could reduce the output voltage under starter load. Anything less than about 4.5 - 5v at coil when cranking and the spark will be minimal -- perhaps to the point of not being able to jump the gap since plug efficiency is also reduced to some degree when cold.

I remember Dad used a dipstick oil heater during winter and also kept the charger at the ready but never had any significant starting issues.

Posted on: 2011/11/10 14:24
Howard
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Re: cold starting problems
#4
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scottie
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I removed the starter motor about this time last year and had it checked and serviced. Everything ok. Battery wires are new, all connections clean. As soon as I get her to start, I'm going to purchase the best, highest CCA battery I can find. I'm fairly certain that is the most of my problem. I'll just keep the other for "in case". I do have a charger on hand and use it whenever it starts to get cold. I've been turning wrench for over twenty years, so vehicle problems are not new for me. By the way, when its warm out (or the car has been started within the last ten hours or so), she runs like a top. Car has automatic trans.

Posted on: 2011/11/10 15:29
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Re: cold starting problems
#5
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Tim Cole
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Dear Scottie:

The heavy oil comment is very good. Packard recommended light oils (20w at the heaviest) for winter use.

I noticed you replaced battery cables, but the materials have a huge effect on performance. For example, once I was working on an eighteenth series car with a slow cranking starter. It had these huge welding cables with hundreds of little strands. I was getting resistance at the connections and couldn't get rid of it even after I crimped and soldered copper terminals on it. They were just totally unsuitable for a 6 volt application.

I threw the thing on the floor and ordered new cables from one of the RI suppliers. The cables made that starter crank like gangbusters. From that point forward I stopped messy around and used top line cables.

Another area I find resistance is in motor blocks. That old cast iron becomes resistive and requires ground cables at the starter bolts.

Good luck with your car.

Posted on: 2011/11/10 18:04
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Re: cold starting problems
#6
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scottie
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Purchased a battery with higher CCA's today. Hopefully, this will help in the future. Thanks for the comments!

Scott

Posted on: 2011/11/10 18:29
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Re: cold starting problems
#7
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Owen_Dyneto
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Hope the battery solves your problem. At the least, can't hurt. If it doesn't, lets explore the problem further as such things as oil or block heaters should only be needed for really extreme low temperatures, well below zero.

If I recall correctly, the 6-volt battery in my 34 is about 1300 CCA.

Posted on: 2011/11/10 18:47
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Re: cold starting problems
#8
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Thomas Wilcox
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Does the car fire at all? If so, could it be a problem with the automatic choke?

Fairly easy to check, just have someone hold the choke closed while trying to start the car (assuming the choke plate is set up correctly).

Tom

Posted on: 2011/11/10 19:31
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Thomas Wilcox
34 Roadster, [url=http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/r
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Re: cold starting problems
#9
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scottie
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Got her to fire up today(finally)after a couple of hours. The choke works fine. I've seen this with other vehicles as well, four or five (or more for that matter) of the same type vehicle, same engine, etc. Every once in awhile, you get one that is just "cold blooded". Hey, it happens! I'll post again tomorrow when I try and fire her up again. Thanks all!

Scott

By the way, Owen, where did you find a 6 volt with that many CCA's? The one I just bought has 725. It was the best one that National Battery had.

Posted on: 2011/11/10 19:48
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Re: cold starting problems
#10
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HH56
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Just for kicks and grins why don't you take a voltage measurement at the coil while it is cranking tomorrow when cold. One lead on the terminal from ign switch and other to ground and see if it is being pulled down excessively.

Posted on: 2011/11/10 19:50
Howard
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