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Quite shortly I will be removing the engine and transmission from my 1951 300. T bought a replacement transmission on e-bay, replaced the bands, seals and high range clutches and will install on the car when the engine is out. The engine smokes and I have to replace two of the manifold studs, so I figured it was better to pull the engine and trans. I have a two ton engine lift etc, I plan on removing the grille radiator, and passanger side front fender. Is there anything I should be wary of? or, can someone give me some pointers on what to do and what not to do. Thanks everyone in advance.

Suggest you remove the hood as well unless you have a fairly short chain attachment and possibly even the other fender. Much easier to work because you may have to access both sides of engine to clear things. You can also take the opportunity to check & spruce things up if no fenders are in the way.

One other thing I'd be careful about is the length of the legs on your lift. If working with engine/Ultra trans as an assembly, the center of gravity is going to be very far back on the engine. If your lift legs don't extend a fair bit past the point on the boom where chain hook ends up, the end of lift will want to tip up. My lift is short in this respect & was a challenge. It had to be counterbalanced which added a lot of extra weight to maneuver.

Why not do what Ross suggests on working on the engine, remove the front clip. I can't find the post I'm looking for, but it is on this site.

I pulled mine from my Clipper two weeks ago.

I left the hood and fenders on but cut the top radiator support and cross bar(I'll weld them back in later). Took the grill out too. Left the bumper.

Get a heavy duty engine balancer/tilter. Take the crank off and weld on a nut so you can tip the engine using your impact wrench. Mount the balancer towards the back of the engine.

For good measure, add a couple hundred pounds of counter balance to your cherry picker before you start.

If you pull the transmission mount, the tailshaft sits on the frame x-member. Leave the trans cooling lines hooked up, they are not in the way. But remember to unhook the neutral safety switch. I also left the starter, fuel pump, trans cooler and alternator and didn't have anything get in the way as I pulled it through the radiator gap.

I pulled the car into the shop at 3:15 to pull the head and look at my "valve problem". Saw it was a piston problem and had the engine and trans on the ground at 8:15.

Thanks, everyone for the advice.