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« 1 (2)

Re: Seat actuator
#11
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HH56
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Quote:
'm going to try and remove the bolt (I presume) holding the end of the horizontal tube to the floor and unwind it that way. The vertical unit isn't quite so bad as I can actually see the worm on it.


If you're lucky, someone has been there before you and installed a bolt. If still original it is a roll pin and in rather tight. I went ahead and made the pin removal tool Packard suggested in SC Vol 30 #2.

Since there was no room to swing a hammer with seat in car, also needed to press it out. Others probably have done something similar but I modified an old C clamp to use as a press. Ground the flat side off and drilled a hole in the end to fit over and allow the pin to slide thru. Also welded a nut on the screw. Originally tried with the pad on screw but that didn't work well. Finally removed the pad & pointed the screw side. Because of the screw point, also had to put a depression in the large end of drive pin for screw to stay put.

It worked but was still a P.I.A. and required some finesse and adequate vocabulary. The "C" opening when screw all the way out is 3 1/4". Just OK but couldn't fit anything larger in the front. Even had to remove the motor off the vertical actuator to get a straight shot at roll pin to use it.

Did I say those pins are in there tight and a P.I.A. to reach and remove. At least the one in back is in thinner sheet metal instead of steel channel so comes out a little easier than the front.

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Posted on: 2012/10/23 8:53
Howard
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Re: Seat actuator
#12
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HH56
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No one with any ideas on my questions?

Was there a cushion or preventive measure to prevent the problem on the originals,

are these units still plentiful so no demand for modern replacement options,

if there is an interest in replacement, would an inch less travel toward steering wheel be a big issue,

any speculation on the force output of original?

Posted on: 2012/10/23 9:54
Howard
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Re: Seat actuator
#13
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Ross
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Gosh guy, I must have five of them in the basement and no one has ever asked for one. Have sold the occasional motor.

They can often be un-jammed by lightly grabbing the flexible coupling between the motor and gearbox with some thin pliers and turning. Or take the motor off and do it.

The forward and back units just have an acme screw, but the up/down units have recirculating ball. Both respond quite well to a little cleaning and lubing of the screw units and the angle drives, and the motor bearings. I don't notice any great tendency for them to jam except when they need servicing. Remember these things are at least 600% outside of their design service life by now.

Posted on: 2012/10/23 14:24
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Re: Seat actuator
#14
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HH56
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Ross, Thanks for the reply. I remembered one poster a few months ago having a stripped gear on his actuator. I believe he bought a replacement unit from Mike. Just thought like so many other items the originals might be getting in short supply and costing a fortune.

Motors don't seem to be an issue. I have several but no complete assemblies. As you said, a little cleaning does wonders on the screw - not sure about gear wear or stripping though.

Need to figure out how to prevent the thing getting stuck again. The tube sliding over the weld or whatever and jamming was a first for me but since Jim apparently has the same issue, maybe common. Just moving the coupling didn't help. It wouldn't budge and didn't want to chance ruining the coupling. Finally removed the unit to use both hands -- a vise grip to hold the drive shaft and then twist the tube to loosen the thing.

Must confess I like the built in limit switches being in the modern units and the smaller size in which the motor wouldn't rub my carpet. Couple of reasons I was thinking of going that way. Got the carpet issue halfway managed earlier so maybe I'll save the money & just look at the limit switch angle instead of a complete swap.

Posted on: 2012/10/23 14:57
Howard
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Re: Seat actuator
#15
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Since actuator removal is a P.I.A. even with bolts instead of the roll pins, I didn't want to have the jamming problem again. The general feeling being that adapting a modern replacement was a waste, did the next best and added a limit switch to prevent the motor driving into the end.

A bracket for a microswitch that utilizes an existing motor mount bolt and casting configuration to locate and attach to actuator. Aside from removing actuator, hardest part was finding a proper 5/16" wide terminal so as not to mess up existing motor connector. No Packards were harmed and all is plug in and easily removable.

Because of the intertia, switch was adjusted to cut the power slightly before the end of travel. Nothing apparent to jam so doesn't seem to be a need for anything at the other end.

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Posted on: 2012/10/25 12:32
Howard
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