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Re: Stewart
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Ross
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Absolutely. That is how it was done at the factory.

Hook up all your Bowden cables as well then it is just a matter of passing them through the appropriate holes.

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Posted on: 7/26 6:30
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
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Marty or Marston
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I been told by an instrument repair shop not to use graphite for lubing the speedo parts. If it makes into the speedometer it can mess it up from functioning correctly.

Posted on: 7/26 20:45
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
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kevinpackard
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How does one lube the speedo cable? I need to do it to mine as well.

-Kevin

Posted on: 7/26 23:38
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
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HH56
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Disconnect the cable housing at the speedometer and pull the cable out of the housing. If the able was properly assembled the cable will pull out easily because the upper end has a wide flange that prevents the cable from falling into the housing and the bottom end is just a squared off end of the cable. Use caution and maybe a towel or rags to catch and coil the cable so the cable does not flop around and get grease on the carpet or upholstery.

Take the time to examine the cable for any damage or loose strands. You can do this visually or use care and a rag to wipe the cable free of the old grease. Watch or feel to see if any strands catch on the cloth. Don't use bare fingers because a broken strand can catch your finger resulting in choice words and maybe blood. After that, check for any hidden kinks by holding the cable in the middle high enough so the ends hang down. Gently roll the cable between your thumb and finger so the cable will rotate. While doing this watch the ends and make sure they are also smoothly rotating. If there is a kink generally one of the hanging ends will whip or make a sudden movement instead of a gentle rotation. Broken strands or kinks and you should start looking for a new cable.

Most parts stores have universal inner cables with assortments of fittings in the package, one of which will work for Packards. On the universal cables you buy the one longer than the original length and follow the instructions to cut the excess off the non squared end with a cold chisel or Dremel cut off wheel to match the original cable length. The new end fitting is installed -- some crimp, some glue, and some have an adhesive in the fitting that is melted and the fitting slipped over the cut cable end before it cools.

If the cable checks good or is new, then starting at the bottom end apply a decent layer of speedometer cable lube or light grease to the bottom two thirds of the cable. Coil the cable as you apply the grease so the cable can be easily handled as you carry it back to the car and start the end back into the housing. As the cable nears full insertion you may need to rotate it slightly so the squared bottom end can slide into the pinion assembly. The grease on the bottom two thirds of the cable will transfer to the walls at the upper end of the housing and provide enough lubricant for the upper third of the cable not greased. Only lubing the bottom portion will prevent any excess grease from working its way up the housing and dripping out or working into the speedometer.

Posted on: 7/27 0:10
Howard
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Re: Stewart
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Stewart Ballard
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I picked up the heater core from the shop today. It needed a core. It cost me about $150 less than getting one online. I will get all that resembled next week.

I rearranged some things in the shop this week and made a small area out of the way to work on the dashboard this winter. It will take me a little while since I am using the Painless wire harness.

Huge crack right down the center of the windshield. That will be heading to the dump soon. I’ll find a replacement later.

Lastly, I spent a couple weeks building that rack to hang the fenders on. I had a winch in the ceiling to do the lifting but man that was a PITA to bring together.

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Posted on: 7/30 15:50
Stewart Ballard
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Re: Stewart
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cortes121
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Stewart,

Great looking setup. Love the space for working on the wiring and having the fenders up and easy to reach.


Shame about the windshield. Kpacks windshield busted too if I recall.

Are these hardtops windshields just more susceptible to cracking?

Posted on: 7/30 16:02
- Anthony

1955 Packard Clipper Custom
1951 Kaiser Deluxe
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
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Stewart Ballard
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In my case, I think the cracked windshield is due to poor storage. It may have already had a small cracked when removed but I don't remember for sure.

Posted on: 7/30 17:01
Stewart Ballard
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
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kevinpackard
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The 55-56 hardtop glass is different than the 53-54, so not due to the fact that the cars are hardtops. They are 70 yr old glass and not always in the best of condition. They must be stored on edge, preferably very padded and secure. Can't have any vibration.

-Kevin

Posted on: 7/30 19:23
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Re: Stewart
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Stewart Ballard
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I got a coat of epoxy sealer on the fenders today. Now that they are all one color I can see that I still have some more work to do on them. I find myself getting lazy by telling myself that some of the imperfections will be hidden under the stainless steel trim.

I also got the spare tire well tacked back in to place today. I have been tripping over that damn things for a couple years so really glad its back in place.

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Posted on: 8/1 18:05
Stewart Ballard
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Re: Stewart
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d c
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Looking good. On the cluster-have you had one of the speedo rebuilt or tested? Have you plans to replace the gauge voltage regulator with a new original style or a solid state? These are very hard to access after all is installed and the car is back on the road. If your orig speedo ad the needle broken it may have had the dreaded needle bounce these are prone to. Test your replacement with a cordless drill and a full length speedo cable to check for bounce. Pay careful attention to dust,rust, dried lube on the odometer gears. Clean all with wd40 and tooth brush carefully without staining odometer barrels.

Posted on: 8/2 11:21
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